Thought I'd have another go at a Panasonic LCD Panasonic TH-L50EM6A LED LCD.
2013 series TV, fairly basic model, not a smart TV nor does it have any network capability which is pretty disappointing for the model year.
Yet from what I read a $1300 first released, dropping to around $800 AUD
Symptoms are no power, no standby LED.
To be honest I have pretty crap luck with LCD TVs and I was expecting this to be a failed A-board.
Anyway, pulling the back off, probing I find no voltage going to the A-board.
Fuse is fine on the P-board.
Check IC7503 (C0DBAYY01599) LV5980MC SANYO Step-down Switching Regulator , find the output was not shorted but pin 7 Vin short to ground.
Looking at the schematic there's a number of components that could be short. Both D7408 and 7409 are showing short.
So it was a toss up between those and the IC, removed D7408 and incredibly that was it, short gone. Lucky guess.
The diodes (B0JDSG000010) are marked Q165A = RBQ10B65A by ROHM 65V 10amp schottky
The package is SC-63 or TO252, DPak.
So I've wedged a RF1501 of a SC board just for testing but will have to get the right package as it's to tight and close to the other tracks.
And that's that. Working with only 2300 odd hours on it.
Picture's not too bad, still prefer Plasma but this uses about a third of the power.
Something else I noticed too, C7422 which is a 680uF 35V cap on this version TNPA5807UE is a F@!#ing Jamicon! This is very similar to my last Panasonic LCD which kept burning out Fets for the backlight. It too had a random crap brand Cap which was the cause of that fault. The rest were Rubycon.
This board , exactly the same , all Rubycon except this random Jamicon and it sits on the 24V line and the two FETs.
Yet I look at a TNPA5807 on Shopjimmy and some UK boards on Ebay and it's a nice Rubycon.
Conspiracy theory?
I think I should change it out.
2013 series TV, fairly basic model, not a smart TV nor does it have any network capability which is pretty disappointing for the model year.
Yet from what I read a $1300 first released, dropping to around $800 AUD
Symptoms are no power, no standby LED.
To be honest I have pretty crap luck with LCD TVs and I was expecting this to be a failed A-board.
Anyway, pulling the back off, probing I find no voltage going to the A-board.
Fuse is fine on the P-board.
Check IC7503 (C0DBAYY01599) LV5980MC SANYO Step-down Switching Regulator , find the output was not shorted but pin 7 Vin short to ground.
Looking at the schematic there's a number of components that could be short. Both D7408 and 7409 are showing short.
So it was a toss up between those and the IC, removed D7408 and incredibly that was it, short gone. Lucky guess.
The diodes (B0JDSG000010) are marked Q165A = RBQ10B65A by ROHM 65V 10amp schottky
The package is SC-63 or TO252, DPak.
So I've wedged a RF1501 of a SC board just for testing but will have to get the right package as it's to tight and close to the other tracks.
And that's that. Working with only 2300 odd hours on it.
Picture's not too bad, still prefer Plasma but this uses about a third of the power.
Something else I noticed too, C7422 which is a 680uF 35V cap on this version TNPA5807UE is a F@!#ing Jamicon! This is very similar to my last Panasonic LCD which kept burning out Fets for the backlight. It too had a random crap brand Cap which was the cause of that fault. The rest were Rubycon.
This board , exactly the same , all Rubycon except this random Jamicon and it sits on the 24V line and the two FETs.
Yet I look at a TNPA5807 on Shopjimmy and some UK boards on Ebay and it's a nice Rubycon.
Conspiracy theory?
I think I should change it out.
Comment