Samsung UE40F5000 no more picture after LED replacement (wtf broke?)
Good day folks. I think I somehow managed to trash this ue40f5000 I was working on and I'd like to hear some thoughts about what could've gone wrong along the way: it came in with a dim stripe at the top of the screen, suggesting a dead LED strip, so I disassembled it, took off the LCD panel and sure enough, one of the strips in the top series of 3 had a LED that would not longer light up, preventing the other 2 strips from lighting up as well. So I replaced the LED, bla bla, all went good, the backlight came on fully, so it was time to reassemble the TV. I did so, but when I plugged it in for the first time, to my dismay, there was no more picture: the backlight came on, but that was about it - no other signs of life. I'm now pretty shocked, since this isn't the first time I disassemble an LCD panel, so I can't possibly understand what broke down: is it the T-Con, or the panel buffer ? I'm suspecting the panel, since I took the T-con off the chassis while I worked on the strips, so there was no way it could've suffered anything...but then, neither could've the panel: I laid it flat on a table, with the buffers hanging off the side like I've always done so far, but yet it decided to die on me ! I tried disconnecting the buffers from the T-con one at a time and this is what happens: when I disconnect one of them (can't remember which - there's 2 of them by the way), I DO get a bit of picture on the side that's still attached (it looks pretty solarized, but at least it's showing up, and I'm expecting this to be normal behavior when just one buffer's attached). However, if I swap them around and connect the other buffer, the screen stays blank, so that's why I think this is the buffer that died. My workmate tried something pretty interesting as well, which further points me towards a dead panel: he connected the buffer that appears to be working (the one on the left, I think) to the connector on the RIGHT of the T-CON, which normally goes to the left buffer (he flipped the buffers around essentially) and there was still some picture coming on (this is to confirm the T-CON is OK and outputs a signal on both connectors). Still, I have no idea how the panel could've died like that. What do you think ?
-
Wattevah... -
Re: Samsung UE40F5000 no more picture after LED replacement (wtf broke?)
If he connected the left ribbon cable to the right side of the tcon that's instant death for an LCD panel as the drive signals are reversed.Did I leave the soldering iron on? -
-
Re: Samsung UE40F5000 no more picture after LED replacement (wtf broke?)
dell 5110 no usb2 سپاسComment
-
Re: Samsung UE40F5000 no more picture after LED replacement (wtf broke?)
SorryComment
-
Re: Samsung UE40F5000 no more picture after LED replacement (wtf broke?)
Has it blown the fuse on the Tcon board or has the Tcon lost some of its on board supplies due to the swapping of connectors?Willing to help but I'm no expert.Comment
-
Re: Samsung UE40F5000 no more picture after LED replacement (wtf broke?)
that thing is trash now all right.Comment
-
Re: Samsung UE40F5000 no more picture after LED replacement (wtf broke?)
Check the board after t-conComment
-
All left and right refers to looking from rear of TV (or looking from front with TV upside down)- TV came with vertical bars and no image. Found faulty TVS on left buffer board. Also replaced T-Con (may have damaged the original while hot air removing components, board has slight warp) and have full image but few horizontal lines on the screen. Some of the lines appears to be 2 pixel tall while others are 1 pixel tall.
- Disconnecting left and right buffer board potentially reveals problems on both sides with different signals (unless this T-Con require jumper like Samsung FB_TRDY1&3) Fault
-
Hi guys! I realized you have a lot of knowledge here so i am hoping you could point me in right direction with my odd issue.
The Tv is a Philips 58PUS8545/12, it had no picture but working backlights.
Original T-con:
Opened the Tv and tested to unplug one ribbon cable at a time. With this test i could see that i got fine picture on both halves as long as there was only one ribbon cable connected, with two connected picture were gone.
First replacement T-con:
I thought it might be t-con and ordered new t-con from china(supposedly tested)... -
This was my main TV for the last 6 years. I'm not inclined to throw out a $2600 TV so quickly so I'm trying to investigate the issue.
Problem
TV was disconnected from power for 6 months during construction. When I plugged it yesterday picture was fine, after 30 seconds it dimmed then started developing horizontal lines, picture then starts to ghost vertically until it degrades into vertical streaks. TV always displays a perfect picture when cold. I can unplug TV for 5 minutes and plug it back in and picture is restored for 20 seconds. I can also keep it in standby mode... -
Hi, I have a Samsung UE50TU with:
- sound and backlight, but no picture
- when it arrived, it had a picture for a few seconds
- it keeps rebooting
- without ribbon cable between the two panel boards, it does not reboot but I have no picture
- without cable between mainboard and lcd panel, it does not reboot (but obviously i have no picture)
- when i try a tape fix, its keeps rebooting, unless I tape off pin 1 (the innermost pin). In that case it does not reboot but I have no picture.
- without cable between mainboard and lcd panel and with a jumpered... -
Problem
This is an LG edge LED lit LCD Display. The LEDs are on the bottom edge of the display. There are 2 bars (left and right) Each bar has many LEDs and a 6 pin connector. Each pin drive several LEDs thus is the highest current flow / heat junction. The weak lead free solder gradually fails with thermal expansion/contraction cycling and increases resistance. PSU will compensate up to a point, then when the current is too high, PSU just shut down the backlight causing a dark display. I have even seen one which the connector just fell off as solder points became completely detached....
Comment