Looks fine matey same as any other soldering or hot air station. Glad to see your investing in some good equipment
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Must say about half the price of the one I bought without the soldering iron, which I did not need.
As ReeceyBurger123 says should work fine. Just don't have the airflow set too high which will blow your smd resistors/caps off the board if you are not careful.
Must say about half the price of the one I bought without the soldering iron, which I did not need.
As ReeceyBurger123 says should work fine. Just don't have the airflow set too high which will blow your smd resistors/caps off the board if you are not careful.
+1 also the temperature for hot air even on multilayer boards does not need to be set over 360 degrees if any higher it will warp/burn the board.
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nice price I think that I will try to find one for sale in the UK
I actually use a Maplin 40w soldering iron which are £7 on ebay and some cheap 858d hot air station which is abiut £25 so works out cheaper.
Ive had both for about a year or two not an issue and Im able to preform chip level repairs with no lifted pads not about the equipment if you ask me but about your skill.
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+1 Agree. It is advisable to practice on redundant boards. Different packages require different amount of heat and time to remove successfully without lifting pads.
Edit
I also find Kapton tape useful to help sheild the heat from parts which are very close to the part you are removing and is cheap to buy off Ebay
Yep Im able to unsolder and resolder caps on dual layer board with just a soldering iron just keep pads heated and slide old one out and new in with out lifting pads. Its hard to get used of the techniques but over time you will get it.
Also with K tape you have to be careful as if its not down properly and your using hot air it can pull up iff the board and lift parts with it I learnt that the hard way once.
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I just ordered some kapton tape, 5mm and 10mm.
I assume when pulling it off, wait till things have cooled off for a while? Don't want to pull the component off with the tape?
I just ordered some kapton tape, 5mm and 10mm.
I assume when pulling it off, wait till things have cooled off for a while? Don't want to pull the component off with the tape?
That's correct or you could pull off components. Let things cool right down and then remove.
I just ordered some kapton tape, 5mm and 10mm.
I assume when pulling it off, wait till things have cooled off for a while? Don't want to pull the component off with the tape?
You couldn't be any more correct mate
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Not sure if I want to attempt repairing a faulty tnpa5335 though. If I don't get it right most places on eBay refuse to work on boards if they've been worked on before and these boards are almost impossible to find.
True but if I was a begginer at a body shop, the owner would probably prefer I work on the Chevy than the Ferrari whose parts are expensive and hard to find.
True but if I was a begginer at a body shop, the owner would probably prefer I work on the Chevy than the Ferrari whose parts are expensive and hard to find.
In my experience I have found that people who have an interest can pick up skills extremely fast. Years ago we employed two youngster to give them a taste of electronics. Within weeks one of them could etch and build a circuit board far better than I could and I had been doing it for years.
True but if I was a begginer at a body shop, the owner would probably prefer I work on the Chevy than the Ferrari whose parts are expensive and hard to find.
But your not at a body shop, your working on a Tv board, even if you rip a pad most of the time you can just reconnect it simply. At least give it a go.
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True but if I was a begginer at a body shop, the owner would probably prefer I work on the Chevy than the Ferrari whose parts are expensive and hard to find.
Nope, the garage owner gave me the apprentice, the Porsche to fix whilst he played with some clag on a dog turd coloured Nova saloon.
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