Samsung PS50A656T1F clicking

[flocko]

Re: Samsung PS50A656T1F clicking

Take a look at schematics for the BN44-00237 power supply on Toms site, although not the same board it is a sub for the BN44-00222 and will show you how the 12v/15v and 18v rails work and what is needed to be checked on heat sink DC to DC buck converter, regulator and diodes

[Andyd1970]

Re: Samsung PS50A656T1F clicking

Hi,

I have checked for bulging caps and all are OK, I have checked the traditional diode around the PCB with my meter and no shorts, not sure on how to test the DX, DS and UX components on the far right heat sink.

My meter is a digitial meter with a setting for testing diodes, caps, I also have bought an Peak atlas ESR60

[Andyd1970]

Re: Samsung PS50A656T1F clicking

PS, you mention Tom's site I have looked at his profile but cant see any links to documents, can you help please.

If this is a PSU fault might be quicker to just find a PSU, what do you think?

[flocko]

Re: Samsung PS50A656T1F clicking

Hi Andy go to the tv repair reference library post#3 click on Toms free service manuals type in what you are looking for, in this case Samsung bn44-00237, you will find there are none for the bn44-00222, when you come across a component that you don't know, look it up, check the data for it, then when you know what it is, look up how to test it, as for a replacement board they are hard to find, I was doing an exchange on eBay but the last one I sold I did not get there faulty board sent to me, so am out of them now, but I would keep looking and testing on your board and try to repair that , the thing is just looking ok is not a test ? if you have a ESR tester use it? a lot of times components that are faulty do not look it, not all faulty component are black and burnt ,test that is the only way to learn Flocko

[Alastair E]

Re: Samsung PS50A656T1F clicking

For reference, I had one of these BN44-00222 PSU thats been irritating me for a few days.

I had actually found the fault--One of the opto's was faulty. There's a row of four next to a row of two. the left-hand one of the two was faulty--with the row of four on your right. I used one from a Sams. LCD PSU I had around, as Ive no idea what type they actually are...
I had also replaced the 5V reg and various caps, but they didn't appear to be a problem....

Still didn't run--as I was using the Control-Board ps/on and vs/on instead of the Main-board connector for ps/vs on, the tiny green LED on the sub-board was on solid all the time.....

--Sorted that, it runs a 150W bulb a treat! I'll bung it back in the set tomorrow, but need to replace the two Va main caps, 680uF, 100V as they look a bit sad, and be a pity to stuff up the COF chips due to those passing spikes....