Philips 50PFP5332D/37

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  • tw2005
    Badcaps Legend
    • Oct 2011
    • 6458
    • Australia

    #21
    Re: Philips 50PFP5332D/37

    done a quick comparison with the Shopjimmy PSU and that large cap at the Va line I'm going to suggest it's getting hot.

    I think a full recap may be a good idea
    Attached Files

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    • dlaroche
      Member
      • May 2014
      • 24
      • United States

      #22
      Re: Philips 50PFP5332D/37

      Originally posted by tom66
      You can try feeding it in video from other sources, and see if it cuts out if the signal is different.
      I have tried every video in source the tv has, and it still shuts off every time a video source is applied.

      Comment

      • dlaroche
        Member
        • May 2014
        • 24
        • United States

        #23
        Re: Philips 50PFP5332D/37

        Originally posted by tw2005
        done a quick comparison with the Shopjimmy PSU and that large cap at the Va line I'm going to suggest it's getting hot.

        I think a full recap may be a good idea
        I'm not sure if the cap is getting hot. I haven't touched it while it is live

        I just assumed somebody before me pealed some of the plastic coating off to see if the cap was bulged or leaking.

        Comment

        • MagicSmoke
          Badcaps Veteran
          • Feb 2011
          • 275
          • USA

          #24
          Re: Philips 50PFP5332D/37

          Test all of the voltages when set is on with test patterns, make sure the lesser voltages stay stable and within tolerance.

          Some sets use more than 8 different voltages to power different circuits. Anyone of those that is not working correctly will cause problems.

          Comment

          • dlaroche
            Member
            • May 2014
            • 24
            • United States

            #25
            Re: Philips 50PFP5332D/37

            Originally posted by tw2005
            I think a full recap may be a good idea
            Any suggestions on a rebuild kit or would it just be better to order from mouser?

            Is there any suggestions on parts I should check before order new parts?

            SMPS number: LJ92-01511A

            Thanks everyone!
            Last edited by dlaroche; 03-02-2015, 01:19 PM.

            Comment

            • MagicSmoke
              Badcaps Veteran
              • Feb 2011
              • 275
              • USA

              #26
              Re: Philips 50PFP5332D/37

              Digikey is closer to you if they have all the correct ones you need. It is difficult to be specific about what else to test without knowing that all the caps are within spec and not causing the problems.

              Bad caps sometimes will show no visual evidence at all that they have failed.

              Comment

              • dlaroche
                Member
                • May 2014
                • 24
                • United States

                #27
                Re: Philips 50PFP5332D/37

                I ended up going with Mouser since that is usually who I go through. I was able to source all the caps as Panasonic's, except one of the bigger caps. Total bill came to $25.56 for a full electro recap. I did run into a question, but pushed through it, in hopes that I made the right decision. I purchased both HC and BR (i think) Panasonic series caps. I thought I read something about one of the Panasonic series not being worth anything, and well I couldn't pull up the article quick enough so I pushed the order through.

                However, while un-soldering the caps, that are on order. I did run into a few that looked good, but gave that distinctive fish smell when being de-soldered. So the board definitely had a bunch of bad caps that I am aware of now. I am sure if I had an ESR meter 75% or greater would test bad. This board has the Samwha caps in it....all the electrolytic caps are....smh.

                This board has no schematics that I am aware of.


                I can do some very good component level repairs, but diagnosis isn't my strongest point yet. Doing full component swaps on boards is easy. I want to gain the knowledge of diagnosing the key cause of a problem. I am a programmer by trade so I am far from falling between an apple tree. I learn things very quickly.

                With that being said, from my understanding of power supplies. Isn't a caps sole responsibility is to deaden the ripple in the current? To take the hills out and make it a straight line on the oscilloscope right? If so, then doing a cap swap on this power supply probably isn't going to resolve the Va voltage being low then? The board definitely needed a cap swap, but with my limited diagnoses skills, I have a feeling I have only started the repairs on this board?

                Comment

                • dlaroche
                  Member
                  • May 2014
                  • 24
                  • United States

                  #28
                  Re: Philips 50PFP5332D/37

                  I ordered a mix of FR and FC series Panasonic caps, and did a full board recap. Plugged it in, and everything worked as expected. The plasma played video for about 10 minutes before I lost all power, including any standby voltages. I did get a faint smell of fried electronics, but was unable to pinpoint the location of the smell on the board.

                  I am getting voltage on the main filter caps after the bridge rectifiers, but from there I am clueless on the issue.

                  Any suggestions?

                  Comment

                  • Chuchyfinley
                    New Member
                    • Apr 2014
                    • 1
                    • United States

                    #29
                    Re: Philips 50PFP5332D/37

                    Did you ever find out what was wrong with the power supply?

                    Comment

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