oh I think i killed it a while ago lol, i don't know if i should be getting continuity on bridge+ and main cap+ theres a diode between them, of course i was looking at some work on a led tv, so probably different setup.
it only clicked with mainboard connected, but now that the boosted pfc is gone there is no clicking every 5 seconds connected or not, like i had before with the boosted pfc.
can anyone answer the question, why the dc voltage on the bridge rectifier, thats + and - the 2 outside legs is 106, it was 106 when the backlight was staying on for 15 minutes, the ac coming in on the bridge rec. is 120 as it should be, is this normal or does it point to a problem???
Wow Nomoresonys you surely have perseverance. You started this thread in 2014 and you are still at it. I know nobody out there that would do that. Cudos to you.
Lol, that would point to insanity wouldn't it? no, I fixed it with a mainboard in early 215 then it just started acting up again lately, its old as dirt but these early samsungs have a very good picture, otherwise I wouldnt bother with it, kind of heavy and clunky compared to newer stuff. I like the puzzle aspect of it but so far its getting the better of me.
the samsung I'm using in place of this one is a un model edge lit tv and it pales in comparison no matter how much calibration is done, much lighter and sleeker looking and no mercury BUT worse picture quality.
well this one crapped out again, getting the clicking of the relay every 5 seconds, fixed it once with electro caps replacement and reflow of solder joints, lasted a few months now its back same thing, clicks every 5 seconds. When powerboard is unhooked from mainboard clicking stops but backlights don't come on, when heating area of ics801 for a minute or two tv comes on for 15 minutes or so no clicking, replaced or checked all caps and resistors in that area, anyone know if heating ics801 is making it work for that 15 minutes or should heating it have no effect on the ic as in letting the tv work for that 15 minutes??: sj pic of powerboard: https://www.shopjimmy.com/samsung-bn...ight-inverter/
just been reading this thread on the shop jimmy picture top right where someone has marked those capacitors with red marker have you tested all of those caps in that area for uf and esr as these do fail maybe heating that ic is also heating these caps and lowering the esr tempory
yes, I was getting the bad cap clicking syndrome, changed those 8 electros out and it worked fine for several months then the connector from powerboard to main burnt out, think it was just from old age, replaced that and touched up the joints worked fine for a few more months. Started clicking again, could get it to stop and the backlights would be on for 15 minutes or so by heating the area of ICS801, then was messing around testing the three 8 pin ics on top side of board while powered while testing one of them tv went on and off, then tested main cap and saw I lost the boosted pfc, found QI802 shorted from gate to source, switched it out with K4087 https://www.alldatasheet.com/view.js...K4087&sField=1, which I think is close but not sure. Now still have no boosted pfc and heating that area of ICS801 doesn't get the backlights to come on anymore.
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