Re: HITACHI P50TP01E Y-Buffers/Sus problem
Well, I just tried that, another chip fried a few seconds after I turned the tv on. :P
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Re: HITACHI P50TP01E Y-Buffers/Sus problem
Try checking the Vscan voltage across the buffer boards. It shouldn't exceed 200V, ideally in the 120~160V range.
(E.x. testing point - one end of R812 to groundplane of buffer.)Leave a comment:
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Re: HITACHI P50TP01E Y-Buffers/Sus problem
Thank you for the reply.
It seems logical that the Y-sus is ok, but why do chips keep getting fried after a few minutes of work? Is it because some of the chips are removed?
I just want to be sure that the new boards don't get fried, because of a faulty Y-sus, or maybe something else?Leave a comment:
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Re: HITACHI P50TP01E Y-Buffers/Sus problem
I'd be thinking if you managed to get this running with the buffer ics removed and part picture the sustain is probably ok. From the few panasonic Sc boards I've done the transistors short. So if you did have bad FEts they'd be shorted but I could not imagine the board running with a short . Check them in cct for shorts if you're worried .
never touched a Hitachi.Leave a comment:
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HITACHI P50TP01E Y-Buffers/Sus problem
Hi, guys this is my first thread here and I hope you can help me out.
I have this HITACHI P50TP01E that had no picture just a blue light blinking 4 times. I read online that it was a power supply problem (later when reading the service manual I found out that it could a lot more than just the PS), so I changed some caps on it, they weren't bad, but more than 6 years old. This did not improve my issue. After reading some threads (tom66's guide for fixing plasmas was of most help, so thank you for the great guide), I found out that unpluging one of the Y-buffers could start the tv if one of them is the problem. So after removing the lower one, nothing. But after removing the other one the tv would start with no blinking lights (and no picture, not even the part of the screen with the connected Y-buffer was working), just a solid blue light, as normaly. So I turned the TV on and off a few times and it was stil the same. I found that one of the chips on the removed board is fried. I wanted to check the Va and Vs so I turned the TV on again after ~1 hour and there was picture in the lower part of the screen, but is was just green snow and lines, and after ~1-2s I heard a pop and smoke was comming from the back of the tv. I turned it off and found another on the "working" board (it had no visble signs before the pop and the smoke). So I asked a friend who's been fixing TVs for the last 20 years about it and he told me to desolder the faulty chips and that's what I did. The tv worked but with green snow and lines, there were also white lines now. But when I turned it on I didn't conect the cables that were in front of the fried chips. I have a video of this. After conecting them the TV worked with no green lines or snow, but the white lines where still there (I guess it's because of the removed chips).
After 2-3 minutes of being turned on there was another pop and more smoke so I desoldered the newly burned chip. And after 10 minutes one more chip was fried, all of the chips fried by me are on the lower board. I tried touching the chips before the last time one of them failed and the weren't even very warm. So before ordering new boards I want to check the rest of the TV.
Can anyone tell me how to test the FETs on the Y-sus board? I can desolder them, but I don't know what voltage and where I should I apply it to see if the FETs work.
I'll post my pictures, videos and part numbers below. All of the pictures are after desoldering the chips I couldn't take a photo in the 2s I got the first time. xD
P.S. The Vs was 0.6v over the one marked on the sticker, but I lowered it a bit and it's 0.4v over the default one now.
nd60200-0047/8 - Y-Buffer
nd60200-0046 - Y-sus
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Va9j...ature=youtu.be
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GyTx...ature=youtu.be
Any help and sugestions are welcome!
Attached FilesLast edited by reaper57; 10-02-2014, 06:35 AM. -
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I'm looking to upgrade several 8GB 820-00850 boards to 16GB or 32GB for personal use. I am curious what the best practice and process is for sourcing new replacement chips, and what vendor(s) you guys prefer? Another question is, how do I find compatible chips and their corresponding part/model numbers? For example, in the 820-00850 schematic, the DDR chip U2600 model listed (EDFB232A1MA) corresponds to 1x32GB chip. Of course, I would need 4x8GB chips to replace the 4x2GB chips currently on the board. How do I find compatible 8GB chips? Is it as simple as searching "BGA178 8GB 2133"... -
All left and right refers to looking from rear of TV (or looking from front with TV upside down)- TV came with vertical bars and no image. Found faulty TVS on left buffer board. Also replaced T-Con (may have damaged the original while hot air removing components, board has slight warp) and have full image but few horizontal lines on the screen. Some of the lines appears to be 2 pixel tall while others are 1 pixel tall.
- Disconnecting left and right buffer board potentially reveals problems on both sides with different signals (unless this T-Con require jumper like Samsung FB_TRDY1&3) Fault
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As stated by the person I collected the TV from, it just stopped working overnight. However, I still gave it a go to try and repair it.
There is a thread on the same TV but with slightly different issues where they had to tape connection points on the ribbon cable, so I want to see if this is repairable by any chance.
After bringing it home and plugging it in, the TV turned on with its backlight working but had no picture. After removing the back cover, the first thing I tried is to unplug one of the ribbon cables and the situation is as follows.
Left... -
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The device is based on NM-F871 motherboard with Nuvoton NPCK397 series controller. The motherboard also contains three BIOS chips: two different Winbond chips for main BIOS and external EC flash, and also a Gigadevice chip which purpose I do not know. The password information is contained directly in controller and thus can be manipulated by reprogramming it, so reprogramming BIOS chips is technically not required, however you may wish to make... -
Hello, I have a screen in where sometimes when I open it pop-up vertical multicolor lines (I would say the most of them are green). If I tun off and turn on the screen the lines dissapear or if I leave open the screen after approximately five minutes the lines gone. I measured the below voltages on the main PCB and on the T-CON board and the voltages are the same when it doesn’t display the vertical lines and when it displays the vertical lines. Also, I cleaned all the connectors very good with IPA. I moved back and forth the connectors and the COF tabs but the vertical lines didn't displayed...
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