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Test 1 disconnect the LVDS at T-CON as i marked in photo test1, the turn on the TV check it will boot up and the Audio Optic Port will lit red color... screen remain black
test2, bring back the LVDS at test 1 in place... and disconnect the black socket EVDD on t-ton as i marked at test 2 photo... also as in first test turn on the Tv and check the audio optic port.
if in both test the TV start and optic port lit red.... use test 2 , while the TV starting plug in back the black socket, the screen will turn on and you will be able to see how defect its before TV turn off again
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Okay, I just did test one and two, and still no red light, didnt check the screen btw the tv is on the floor, but pretty sure there is no juice going past the power board (one composant deflect)Test 1 disconnect the LVDS at T-CON as i marked in photo test1, the turn on the TV check it will boot up and the Audio Optic Port will lit red color... screen remain black
test2, bring back the LVDS at test 1 in place... and disconnect the black socket EVDD on t-ton as i marked at test 2 photo... also as in first test turn on the Tv and check the audio optic port.
if in both test the TV start and optic port lit red.... use test 2 , while the TV starting plug in back the black socket, the screen will turn on and you will be able to see how defect its before TV turn off again
What did it mean that both test failed?Comment
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Normally, I should receive the multimeter tomorrow. What tests should I perform to check:Test 1 disconnect the LVDS at T-CON as i marked in photo test1, the turn on the TV check it will boot up and the Audio Optic Port will lit red color... screen remain black
test2, bring back the LVDS at test 1 in place... and disconnect the black socket EVDD on t-ton as i marked at test 2 photo... also as in first test turn on the Tv and check the audio optic port.
if in both test the TV start and optic port lit red.... use test 2 , while the TV starting plug in back the black socket, the screen will turn on and you will be able to see how defect its before TV turn off again
- If the power supply board is faulty and cannot provide enough power?
- If the OLED panel is also faulty, if it draws more power than expected, or if there is a short circuit?
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Just tried with the two methods, none of them made this thingy red light, I even half opened it with a plastic to see the interior (in case the led would be hidden under the clap) but nothing.
The only thing is when I plug the cable I hear TIC from power board, wich is pretty normal I guess, but apart from that no sign of life, and yes I respected that I need to reinsert what I did take apart from test 1.
Its seem that past the power board, nothing is powered !Comment
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That's not true yet either. Either the main board OR the power is bad. MultimeterComment
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Find beep beep mode, you'll know you have it when you touch leads together and test the fuses. One is by the plug, it's a white cylinder. Second one is in middle of boards (unplugged only)
One probe on each side of the sides of the fuse. Or look for ohm mode and do the same thing. It should test .001 or anything under .01. of not fuse is dead and it's your power board.
Next if all good look at the legend near the connector. It tells you which pins give what voltage on the clip going to main board. Should say 12v or 20v or something.
Stick the black probe and hold it on the metal chassis (I stick it in the screw holes for the wall mount and just leave it so I have 2 free hands) and then plug in the board and test to see if you have 12 v or 20 v at the connector on the power board. Remember
Do NOT touch the left side of the board and be careful plugging in the TV or unplugging.
When testing the voltage you can stick the probe into the connector on the back and should be able to get a voltage. Don't touch 2 things together as you can short out components.
Best is to plug in the TV and Then plug it into wall, and to turn it off just unplug from wall
Report back after.Comment
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Hi Badcaps,
I've had a friend discard a TH-65DX700Z Pansonic Viera Television and I've decided to have a go at repairing it. If possible could I please get some advice in terms of diagnosing the problem so I can purchase the appropriate parts for repair whether it be components, a repair kit or a replacement board. I am happy to post pictures if required.
TV Details:
Model # - TH-65DX700Z
Symptoms:
The television turns on and displays a picture then makes a clicking sound and turns off.
I haven't opened it up yet but... -
Hello,
I need your help with an issue I'm encountering while diagnosing a NM-D471 REV 2.0 motherboard from a Lenovo laptop. The laptop won’t power on. I started by checking the power rails, including the main power line and the 3.3V and 5V rails.
I do have a proper 3.3V across the line, including at the chip responsible for managing 3.3V/5V—same goes for the 5V rail. I haven’t tried to simulate a power-on yet, since the main issue still needs to be resolved.
I have full access to the boardview, but I’m not sure what to check next to isolate the problem.
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Hi everyone,
I'm having an issue with my Lenovo ThinkPad P43s. The laptop does not power on when the internal battery is connected, but it works fine on AC power alone (battery disconnected). Once the battery is reconnected, the system becomes completely unresponsive — no lights, no fan spin, nothing.
Here's what I've tried so far:- Power/EC reset (held power button for 60 seconds with battery and AC disconnected)
- Booted successfully on AC power only with the battery disconnected
- Visual inspection of the battery — no swelling, burn marks, or connector damage
- Battery
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Hi all,
I'm diagnosing an old ATX PSU. Symptoms are:
- PSU turns on regardless of the ON/OFF status for a few seconds
- Voltages don't reach nominal
- PSU then turns off and needs power cycle to power on again
I found two charred resistors, they're across the main capacitors on the primary, I think they are bleeding resistors?
They're both charred, but I don't think it's the issue with the PSU as they read 22kOhm
See pics. Is the black band some custom tolerance then? As 22Kohm should be Red-Red-Orange.
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Hi everyone,
I'm having a serious issue with my ASUS Zephyrus GA401I (4 years old, worked perfectly until recently). The system is lagging heavily, even in the BIOS, and is charging extremely slowly (a few percent in hours), making it nearly unusable. I suspect a motherboard or power delivery issue.
Symptoms:- Severe lag across the system, including BIOS navigation.
- Slow boot times and unresponsive performance in Windows.
- Battery charges very slowly (e.g., ~5% in 2–3 hours).
- No error messages or BSODs, just extreme sluggishness.
What I've Tried:- Replaced
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