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There are two jumpers marked VE at the top of the X-main board. Test one of those.
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That is fine. So, -Vsc, Ve, Vs is OK, what does Va test at? It could be a bad control board or X-/Y-main board. Hard to tell without a scope on the boards.
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I know Ve is fine. 94V is OK for this generation of plasma panel. I want you to test VA.
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So, I don't have any immediate suggestions without a test using an oscilloscope.
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A TV repair shop will probably tell you bad panel (which is wrong - the only two ways a plasma panel goes bad is a stuck line on the screen, or a crack in the panel), or charge too much to be worth it.
Consider investing in a cheap scope. I sold my old 20MHz scope on eBay for about £35 delivered and there are plenty of others out there. Used that for all my plasma repairs, before I upgraded to the Rigol.
Scope just needs to be 20MHz or more, with a 10X probe (can be purchased later) and 300Vpk input or more. Analog CRT. Don't bother with a toy scope, such as a DSO Nano - not worth it.
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I'm willing to help you in using one, but fundamentally they're pretty simple devices. The volt scale is like setting the range on a multimeter. A scope just shows you a reading in time, as well as in volts. So you can see what a voltage does over time, which is vital because a plasma display works on a waveform that changes thousands of times per second. Then there is a trigger setting, which helps keep the scope synchronised and keeps the display stable - that's just a voltage setting - if the scope sees a rising voltage or falling voltage of that level, it'll sync onto it. Most of the other stuff can be ignored for simple tests. When I am fiddling with a scope, I am 99% of the time changing volts/div, time/div or trigger level. Everything else can be left in a standard setting.
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You need a dual channel one, CRT analog (the old green/cyan tube ones.) It needs to be 20MHz or higher bandwidth. Aside from that, almost anything else is an added extra. If it comes with switchable 10X probes it'll save you from buying them.
I'd recommend picking one up, but if shipped well they're fine. The tube can be delicate, subject to breakage etc.
If you're unsure, post a link before buying.
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Tom what i also noticed is i seen your video on the same tv with clicking / no power, when your tv switched on the green light on the control board stayed on however the one on mine repeatedly flashes no matter how long its left on
Repeated flashing every 1~2sec indicates a working control board.
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ok so got this hooked up to a oscilloscope from someone i know that owns one. he said it was most likely problem with Ymain so ordered a new one fron Fleebay and arrived today, tv working as new now. thanks for the help on this one.
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