Hi any advice as to what the problem looks like? Im thinking ysus or zsus fault? I can get this quite cheap but dont want to buy it if its unrepairable
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Re: lg 50pc1d zsus or ysus fault?
Anyone have any ideas? -
Re: lg 50pc1d zsus or ysus fault?
I wouldn't bother with these. They are nightmares. You are probably looking at a Y-sustain fault and that single line may be a panel problem or a buffer board problem. After you fix that fault you can look forward to LG sparklies, which may need to be cured.Please do not PM me with questions! Questions via PM will not be answered. Post on the forums instead!
For service manual, schematic, boardview (board view), datasheet, cad - use our search.Comment
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Re: lg 50pc1d zsus or ysus fault?
Ok thankyou tom I will leave buying the tv thenComment
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Hi all,
I am trying to fix my plasma TV which is not powering on due to damaged IGBTs. I have changed two igbts and 2 IC drivers on the zsus and also two igbts on the ysus.
Now everytime I plugged the ZSUS and the YSUS boards to the power board, the two 30f124 IGBT on the ZSUS are damaged and the TV stays in standby mode. When I plug the ZSUS board alone the TV turns ON but I do not see pictures. When I plug the ZSUS board without the two 30f124 IGBTs and the YSUS board, the TV powers on with a picture.
I am lost, should I change the YSUS board? Is the YSUS board damaging... -
Make and Model: LG 60PB6650-UA
Issue: Turns on, no backlight, can hear static (no channel)
I've been repairing TVs for a couple years now. I know how to use a multimeter for the most part and know how to test most components for shorts.
The power board connects to the ZSUS and then connects to the YSUS. The ZSUS is where I believe the failure is because the 16v line is only 3.8V, even when I disconnect the ZSUS from the YSUS.
This particular model seems to have a common failure with its YSUS. My goal earlier was to prove the YSUS was bad so I could... -
Hello everyone. 😀
As per thread title, this unit has a serious SMPSU fault. It blows F1001, which is a 10A M205 in the phase from the mains input.
Very first thing I tried, was simply replacing the fuse, but the replacement ceramic fuse blew immediately.
Looking at the schematic for this PSU, I then removed what I thought was the next likely candidate: D1001 - the HV main bridge rectifier.
This isolated the fault(no longer blows the main fuse), but does not point me to the actual fault.
There are no devices that have exploded or otherwise show signs... -
- Prior owner tried a replacement main board. No difference.
- Samsung 2x red blinking standby LED = panel fault
- Jumpered FB_TRDY_1 (pin 1 CN1300 left. main tcon->left side buffer boards) and FB_TRDY_3 (pin 95 CN1301 right. main tcon->right side buffer boards) This allows testing individual T-Con (on main board) connection to panel on this Samsung. Found fault on left side (viewing from rear of TV)
- Each side has 2 buffer boards, disconnected left side flex between 2 buffer boards. Fault is on the left most board.
- Tape masking eventually isolated to CN1300 pin 15 (CKV4_GOA) Display
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I have been having a fun time at work with two pieces of equipment that had shorted components or shorted component cables to machine frame
I would check what my multi meter was telling me about how many ohms I getting with the multi meter was telling versus the ESR was telling me about weather or not it really was a short to machine ground or not
One note at first we thought that it might be a bad I/O card or a malfunction PLC including me as well but I thought I would try and see if removing the I/O cables would make a difference or not and this time it did make a difference...
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