Dead Samsung 46" LED (model UN46C6300SFXZA)

[freakaftr8]

Re: Dead Samsung 46" LED (model UN46C6300SFXZA)

If one was to clean one. What is the best product to use? Currious because I just took one apart for the first time and I did put my hands on it trying to get it unstuck from the tape holding it all together.

Just use a damp wash cloth with water. That's all. No chemicals like windex. That will ruin the finish.

[mmartell]

Re: Dead Samsung 46" LED (model UN46C6300SFXZA)

Keep in mind I have a D series and can't compare it to yours as I don't have one. But if there are two of these, one per side about halfway up then a little pressure away from the screen and the bezel will pop right off. I also had two screws under the mount which prevented me from removingthe bezel with the stand attached.

But I thought you were further along. These are the clips I was referring to - under the frame, which is under the bezel.

[Jidis]

Re: Dead Samsung 46" LED (model UN46C6300SFXZA)

Thanks mmartell,

Yeah, my description probably wasn't the greatest either. Here's a shot of one of the clips. Are these the only thing holding the bezel on? I guess once that's off I'll find the rest of the stuff you're talking about, but like I say, I'll probably tackle it in the morning.

George

[mmartell]

Re: Dead Samsung 46" LED (model UN46C6300SFXZA)

Ya we are collectively having semantics issues here...

By Bezel I mean the decorative plastic piece around the outside of the screen which may have the manufacturers name and in the case of my UN55D6000 has the ir board glued to it.

By Frame I mean the metal piece UNDER the bezel that goes around the perimeter of the panel giving it added strength.

Back Cover we all know. The piece we are interested in here might be called a Back Plate ? Or Backing Plate maybe ?

So in my post above where I said outer frame read that as Frame and where I said back cover I mean the Back Plate (the part we are trying to remove to get to the led strips)

Whew!

That being said you should post a picture because I have no idea what you are talking about lol.

[Jidis]

Re: Dead Samsung 46" LED (model UN46C6300SFXZA)

Once you remove the screws from the outer frame

Dumb question, but "outer frame" meaning the back cover? It looks like the threaded things that the back cover screws into are the actual clips you're talking about. It looks like if I pry outward on them all the metal guts of the screen can be lifted out. I've got a bad feeling something just popped out of it from the face when I did the side, but damn if I see where it went.

George

[mmartell]

Re: Dead Samsung 46" LED (model UN46C6300SFXZA)

Once you remove the screws from the outer frame and remove it you will see the plastic clips which must be released to pull up the back panel. They are just tension clips you can use your fingernail to pull it back but it's best to pull up gently on the back panel while doing it to get the panel passed the detent position of the clips. It's very intuitive once you get the metal frame out of the way.

[Jidis]

Re: Dead Samsung 46" LED (model UN46C6300SFXZA)

Thanks for all the info freakaftr8!

There may be retaining clips holding the chassis in.

Yeah, that's what I'm figuring maybe. There's weird little metal black things wedged down in the body that might be that. Most of the accessible screws are doing metal to metal duty and don't seem to be holding the bezel on.

I may wait until the morning when I can recruit a helper, but try to get a good look at what I'm up against tonight.

George

[Ltank]

Re: Dead Samsung 46" LED (model UN46C6300SFXZA)

If one was to clean one. What is the best product to use? Currious because I just took one apart for the first time and I did put my hands on it trying to get it unstuck from the tape holding it all together.

[freakaftr8]

Re: Dead Samsung 46" LED (model UN46C6300SFXZA)

Don't know about instructions but never touched an led Samsung yet. The two sharps I did are.pretty straight forward. Start by placing the tv face down. Remove all wires and screws Jeeping.the front bezel on.
Next carefully with another person pick up the chassis out of the bezel. There may be retaining clips holding the chassis in. Once thus is done lay chassis face up on carpet. Start removing the screws holding frame to panel. Carefully remove e frame off chassis. Carefully.disconnect white ribbons going from lcd panel to tcon board. Tape the lcd carriers to the screen to keep them from flopping around. The carriers are the boards attached to the panel. Use caution with these. O e slipup and the panel is toast. Remove panel. Two people should do this. Now remove the black.plastic framing off the chassis. Now you can remove the diffusers. Remember which way and in order they go. by now you should see the LED strips. I know that this is a daunting job but if all goes well you will get to this point and I be able to test the LED's with a voltmeter and diode check setting.

I have removed LCD panels out of Samsung's before but not the LED models although most LED model TVs appear to be similar in design. That's the way I did it

oh yeah in about the diffusers don't touch them anymore than you have to as a matter of fact use rubber gloves because the slightest smudge mark will show up in the screen when it's back together and it is super hard to clean One of these sheets.

[Jidis]

Re: Dead Samsung 46" LED (model UN46C6300SFXZA)

Sorry to nag you guys on this, but still wondering if there are decent disassembly instructions for the panel part of these sets anywhere (to get to the LED strips). I'm trying to avoid ripping apart a bunch of stuff I don't need to.

Thanks Again,

George

[Jidis]

Re: Dead Samsung 46" LED (model UN46C6300SFXZA)

each LED has Vf of about 3.6V so multiply that to get at least that much voltage + the voltage drops on the current limiter resistor

Ouch!

If they're not a complete PITA to get to, I think I'll go with the original idea of just going through the chain with a small power supply.

George

<edit> If anybody's got any good threads or links on disassembling the backlight/screen part of these units, it might help. I'm looking now, but it doesn't seem to be one of the more common repairs.

[budm]

Re: Dead Samsung 46" LED (model UN46C6300SFXZA)

It depends on how LED are connected in series per string, each LED has Vf of about 3.6V so multiply that to get at least that much voltage + the voltage drops on the current limiter resistor. you can tel which string is dead at least by putting the DC AMP meter with that string to see if it draws current at start up or not, that will at least tell you which string is dead due to open LED.

[Jidis]

Re: Dead Samsung 46" LED (model UN46C6300SFXZA)

Thanks Budm,

I'll try to get that set up today if I can figure out how to get to everything. I'm hoping it's either that or the supply. Would seem to be a lot cheaper than having to buy the whole main board.

George

PS- I'm guessing that the main supply which feeds the whole chain of LEDs is not something we regular people can produce, right?

[budm]

Re: Dead Samsung 46" LED (model UN46C6300SFXZA)

You can test individual white LED using 3~3.6V voltage source with current limiting resistor to about 5~10mA. 2V is not enough to forward bias on white LED.

[Jidis]

Re: Dead Samsung 46" LED (model UN46C6300SFXZA)

mmartell-

In that other thread, it sounds like tibimakai's set did the same as mine with no mainboard connection and just stayed dead, but his failed part turned out to be the mainboard itself.

Tom66 actually has a comment about it

May not apply for new Samsung LED, using multi-region dimming, it might need commands to set up the dim level on each LED.

I think that's why I was remembering reading something about newer ones not working like that anymore (with the mainboard disconnected).

tibimakai's power supply voltages at that 18-pin connector looked much healthier than mine though. I checked *while* the boards were connected and the set was switching on/off.

I like the idea of checking the individual LEDs (that's low-tech enough for me ). Stupid question, but can each of these lights be individually powered by a "normal" LED supply (something in the 2V range with a current limiting resistor)? I actually have a supply dedicated to that here.

Thanks again all!

George

[freakaftr8]

Re: Dead Samsung 46" LED (model UN46C6300SFXZA)

A stand alone power supply for testing the led strips.

[mmartell]

Re: Dead Samsung 46" LED (model UN46C6300SFXZA)

...the easy way is to get an inverter power supply...

What do you mean by this ?

[mmartell]

Re: Dead Samsung 46" LED (model UN46C6300SFXZA)

https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showth...hlight=samsung

Backlight should still fire with mainboard removed.

[tibimakai]

Re: Dead Samsung 46" LED (model UN46C6300SFXZA)

https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showth...hlight=samsung

[mmartell]

Re: Dead Samsung 46" LED (model UN46C6300SFXZA)

So if you have a known good PS then your led backlight is faulty and you would need to go into the panel to repair.