Dead Samsung 46" LED (model UN46C6300SFXZA)

[freakaftr8]

Re: Dead Samsung 46" LED (model UN46C6300SFXZA)

when and if you decide to disassemble the TV remove the screen the easy way is to get an inverter power supply but if you don't have the means to do so what I did is used a voltmeter and diode check mode and tested every single led to see if it Lights up. a good voltmeter has the power to light up an LED when I got to the last led it was dead barely lighting up and then died completely so I was able to confirm that that was the issue. It was the first led On the strip after the connector.

[freakaftr8]

Re: Dead Samsung 46" LED (model UN46C6300SFXZA)

Yea a sharp lc-60le810un quattron LED tv has 280 LEDs!! One went bad and the whole set goes down! Unfortunately I jumpered the one bad one and reassembled. Its a gamble now. Lol but man it looks good!

[mmartell]

Re: Dead Samsung 46" LED (model UN46C6300SFXZA)

Well if that's what the Fast Track says then you either have a problem with your PS or your led backlight. Unfortunately there is no real test for the backlight other than what you've tried, especially without knowing how many leds are in there and how they're wired.

[Jidis]

Re: Dead Samsung 46" LED (model UN46C6300SFXZA)

How many wires going from the power supply to the backlights ?

Hey again,

Assuming that's the only other jack coming directly from the power board, there's eight (two bundles of four).

If the "field guide" is a little four page thing with basic checks and troubleshooting steps, I've got that. It's called the "Fast Track Troubleshooting Manual". In there, they say that disconnecting the main ribbon and applying power should immediately bring the backlight up, but I swear I read some mention of that not working, either on different models or different board revisions. Could be wrong on that, but I guess if I can figure out if there's an LED issue that might answer it.

I never had much luck finding an actual service manual.

Thanks,

George

[mmartell]

Re: Dead Samsung 46" LED (model UN46C6300SFXZA)

Thanks Guys!

mmartell- That (disconnecting the main ribbon) was one of the first things I tried, but it seems I may have read somewhere else that it might not automatically enable the backlight power lines.

If I get *no* backlight power with the mainboard disconnected, what would be the logical next step? I may have to look into getting to the LEDs to check them as you suggest.

Thanks,

George

Try to find the service manual or field guide for your particular model. Some need extra jumpers in place to fire the backlights.

How many wires going from the power supply to the backlights ?

[Jidis]

Re: Dead Samsung 46" LED (model UN46C6300SFXZA)

Thanks Guys!

mmartell- That (disconnecting the main ribbon) was one of the first things I tried, but it seems I may have read somewhere else that it might not automatically enable the backlight power lines.

If I get *no* backlight power with the mainboard disconnected, what would be the logical next step? I may have to look into getting to the LEDs to check them as you suggest.

Thanks,

George

[freakaftr8]

Re: Dead Samsung 46" LED (model UN46C6300SFXZA)

Agree. Just got done repairing a sharp 60 inch with a failed led in one of the strips. It also prevented the tv from coming up.

[mmartell]

Re: Dead Samsung 46" LED (model UN46C6300SFXZA)

A lot of these sets (at least in the "D" series) are suffering from open LED's in the backlight system which will prevent them from starting at all.

You need to find out if this set will fire the backlights with the cable between the main board and PSU disconnected. Then you need to be positive your PSU is good. Then you will know your backlights are the problem.

As a last resort you could disassemble the panel to get to the led strips and test them but I would recommend you to troubleshoot the other causes first.

[Jidis]

Hi all,

I've been fighting off and on with a 46" Samsung LED television someone gave me last year and still haven't gotten a definitive answer to narrow the problem down to which board I need to order.

Description:

It's pretty much dead, and doing that common thing where you can hear the relay clicking once every five or six seconds when you try to power it up, with no other signs of life.

Things I've tried:

One of the first was disconnecting the main 18-pin ribbon link between mainboard and PSU. Some info seemed to state that this was a way to make sure the backlights worked and all, as the PSU was supposed to automatically enable everything in that case. No go here, unfortunately. With the mainboard offline, the unit just sits dead with no clicking and no way to start it. I think someone or something implied that they may have changed that behavior, so I'm not positive that disconnecting it should have worked here.

Next, disconnecting the T-Con board. Same as before, just clicking relay and dead screen.

Disconnecting any/all of the remaining small cables does the same dead screen with relay clicks, with the exception of that 10-pin or whatever it is that goes to the power on circuitry in the front panel. If that's out, you have no way to start it.

Most of the main connector lines have really low voltages on them, often fluctuating. I think there are a few that hang around .3V, but the unstable ones are in the lower millivolts. I do get a solid 5.3V on the Standby pin there, and there's one other pin (P_DIM, I believe) which stays at 4V. The standby/power-on circuitry seems to work (remote or panel switch).

I also tried feeding the available 5V into the "BL_ON" line to see if I could start the lights, but I guess there's too much else wrong with the set in this state (no lights).

All fuses on the power board are intact, as is a small surface mount I saw on the T-Con board. There's also no sign of any poor condition electrolytic caps or any other visibly damaged components across the boards.

If there's any "tell tale" procedure I can try, or have already tried, I'd like to figure out what I need to order. FWIW, I also have rework equipment here, but it sounds as if most of the stuff that goes wrong ultimately requires the swapping of full boards. I also wouldn't have a clue as to the tracking of a failed part with this mess, unless there was some specific part which commonly fails on this model (and isn't proprietary).

Let me know if there's any other info which might help.

Much Thanks,

George

PS- There's a story behind this set, but I'm not sure how much stock to put in it. The relative who gave it to me says that a tech came out to look at it, and installed two boards which didn't fix it, and it would have needed a third. All three would have made the repair too costly, but I don't know why he would sell him all three if the first two weren't the problem, and I can't see every board in the thing being faulty. He also said that the TV came up at one point, with a blank blue screen or something, which was when the tech said he would need the third board. Again, I wasn't there nor do I know the tech or whether he was on the level.