Read their policies, they usually replace before refund, you could go there and pick them up direct to save on postage.
Please do not PM me with questions! Questions via PM will not be answered. Post on the forums instead!
For service manual, schematic, boardview (board view), datasheet, cad - use our search.
Whats happened to my lovely thread! snipersquad100!!!!!
Anyway, just popped in to let people know my TV is still going. popped two big 120mm fans on the back to cool the Ysus/Xmain in a hope that the cooler temps will prolong life.
I think the lower voltages has made the picture slightly worse but as long as it works who cares?
sorry mcfly66.
I've replaced x and y boards and now I'm getting a clicking relay on the power board. When it settles I get 2 quick flashes and a 2 sec off time on the front led. Any ideas what that means?
I have been following this thread closely. Since I have been trying to repair an samsung 43" Plasma with the clicking relay problem. I Found a shorted FET on the Y sustain board so I replaced the board and relay still clicked. With the new Y board the TV would BOOT UP with the X board unplugged so I thought it was the X-Sustain Board. I ordered one off ebay but still same clicking relay with it plugged up. I checked all the fet's off the inital X board and they were shorted. All the Fet's off the board from ebay were shorted also. I ordered another x board off of ebay and checked all of the FET's FIRST and they were not shorted. I installed the board and it booted up but just a flash at first on the screen. The Vs and Va is there for an instant and then drops. I double checked and found out the second board I just ordered is a revision 1.8 instead of a 1.6 that was in the ebay photo. GRRRRR.... Is their anyway to make the 1.8 work? I can't install the new firmware if the TV is not working. Any suggestions???? I think I have a bad x sustain board and I have not gotten a good one yet off of ebay.. What should I do?
Still working on this set. Found out if I unplug both ribbon cables going from the X and Y sustain boards to the small microprocessor board in the center of the set that I then have VS and Va voltages on the power supply and the Ve voltage on the X-board.. Don't know if these ribbon cables supply the firing sequence to both boards but suspect they do. I am gonna remove small microprocessor board and inspect it next...
Here is what I have done so far.. Replaced both X and Y sustain boards... I am not getting the PS-on signal out of the control board. I removed the control board to take a look and it looked like it had gotten wet at some time. There was alot of thick crud on the back of the board. I cleaned it off but that did not help. I checked the voltage on the regulators on this board and IC 111 voltage looks suspect The tab goes to ground on this one and I have 14.8 volts input and 8.9 output. Is this a 12 volt regulator? I will post a pic of the board and IC111.. Just found a replacement board on e-bay for 13 bucks... gonna see what that does.. Still would like to know about that regulator... It acts like something is shorted on that board because I took a 1k resistor and jumpered from 5V to PS-on. The voltage with the jumper would just read .3 volts .... way too low..
Well still no progress. I replaced the video board and same thing. I suspect that I should have replaced the X and Y at the same time instead of replacing separately. Some lessons you learn the hard way. Double checked and have shorted regulators on the Y driver board now. Checked the X board and all the regulators look good. All of the regulators were blown on the original X board so I suspect they took out the new Y-board anyway I have a used Y board on order off of e-bay .. Gonna give that a try. I ordered a set of RJP63K Fet's off of ebay and when I got them they both read open in every direction. I suspect they got zapped coming thru customs. Anyway I am gonna try another Y board when it comes in.
Well still no progress. I replaced the video board and same thing. I suspect that I should have replaced the X and Y at the same time instead of replacing separately. Some lessons you learn the hard way. Double checked and have shorted regulators on the Y driver board now. Checked the X board and all the regulators look good. All of the regulators were blown on the original X board so I suspect they took out the new Y-board anyway I have a used Y board on order off of e-bay .. Gonna give that a try. I ordered a set of RJP63K Fet's off of ebay and when I got them they both read open in every direction. I suspect they got zapped coming thru customs. Anyway I am gonna try another Y board when it comes in.
The RJP63s are IGBT so to test them they need to be primed to switch them on. Maybe not the correct terminology but if you google test IGBT , I know there's a youtube on how to do it. I never remember off the top of my head, done in diode mode.
Ok.. Still no go after replacing X and Y boards... Twice. I Pulled the IGBT from the second Y board and it reads open in all directions and will not turn on with a DMM in Diode check Mode. I used the method in the video from the link above. I checked some know good IGBT's I had to make sure I had the method down pat. The IGBT that reads open is an 30G124. Guess I will order one and replace it and try that next.
Well now I still have the same problem. I found out the IGBT was good after I checked it with a different DMM. I tried jumpering pins 3&4 on the main logic board while removing the cable from the video board. If I unplug the ribbon cables from the X and Y boards then I get the VS voltage (207) volts.... I am suspecting that the buffer board may be bad that connects to the Y-Main. What do you'alll think. I have replaced both the x-main and Y-main boards twice. I do get sound and the remote works fine but just no picture. If the buffer is bad would this also cause it to go into shutdown mode?
Just ordered a buffer and a main logic board off of e-bay all for less than twenty bucks so i thought it would be worth a shot. Ok the question I need to resolve is on the X-Main board will Revision Board 1.8 work with this TV? It had a 1.6 which I bought a replacement for off of e-bay. The seller sent me an 1.8 instead and said that this was the replacement That I would just have to upgrade the firmware when I got the tv working. Is this true?? I hate to keep sinking money into this beast.
1.8 will work in place of 1.6, but yes, you do need to update firmware after it's installed.
Please do not PM me with questions! Questions via PM will not be answered. Post on the forums instead!
For service manual, schematic, boardview (board view), datasheet, cad - use our search.
Success !!! I finallly got this one working. I got the main logic board and buffer board in the mail today. I just went ahead and installed both of them at the same time. I did not want to take a chance at blowing anymore boards. It has a beautiful picture and looks great. I am not going to play it until I get a memory stick tomorrow so I can upgrade the firmware. I had a card reader I transfered the new firmware too but the TV would not recognize that so I guess I need to invest in a memory stick. I can use that for other things also. I am just glad I finally got it to work. I learned the hard way replace X and Y and buffer boards at the same time on this model. Thanks for everyones help.
Hie , I have sound but no picture with my Samsung Plasma ps43d490a1lxl , I guess the problem with my sustain boards , How to identify the sustain boards problems please suggest me . thank you !
Look closely on the boards. One boards will say X Main or Y Main. The Y Main should be on the far left. It has the long strip bufferboard connected to it. The X Main board is on the far upper right side. I has the two ribbon cables connected to it that are going to the Plasma screen.
Well I am suffering the same fate as other's on here, when I plug it in it get's a flash of pink stripes or fuzz at any given spot for just a second then nothing on screen. Logic board lights 5-2 clearly I would see the pink striping vs just a screen flash as a indicator something is wrong, What board is going to be most liely to cause the pinkish striping/fuzz for the 1 sec the screen flickers vs just a gray or white screen flash ? would that be ysus or xsus or a buffer that's most likely to cause that issue of no picture short of the pink lines/static on any given part of the screen on boot for a second then blank ?
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