I have a RCA 42PA30RQ which will not turn on. When you turn it on the blue Light comes on in the front and you hear a clicking three times. I've taken the back cover off and have disconnected the Y-Main and Y buffer board and Z-Main to see if the clicking would stop. When I disconnect the two boards, instead of it clicking three times the clicking goes down to one. I have checked the Y Buffer to see if there is any shorts and it looks good. So I kind of wondering if It could be just the power supply bad, becasue it still click when turned on. Thanks again for help
RCA 42PA30RQ Clicking now Power
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Re: RCA 42PA30RQ Clicking now Power
I have a RCA 42PA30RQ which will not turn on. When you turn it on the blue Light comes on in the front and you hear a clicking three times. I've taken the back cover off and have disconnected the Y-Main and Y buffer board and Z-Main to see if the clicking would stop. When I disconnect the two boards, instead of it clicking three times the clicking goes down to one. I have checked the Y Buffer to see if there is any shorts and it looks good. So I kind of wondering if It could be just the power supply bad, becasue it still click when turned on. Thanks again for helpMuh-soggy-knee -
Re: RCA 42PA30RQ Clicking now Power
This TV commonly experiences Y-main (Y-Sus) and X-main (Z-Sus) failures. I doubt your PSU is bad. Did you check your PSU VS and VA output voltages with the Y-main (Y-Sus) and X-main(Z-Sus) disconnected? Try removing the Y-main and X-main boards from the TV and testing the transistors and diodes on the heat sinks for shorts. Also, there are few threads on this TV and similar thin-profile Samsung-based TVs.Last edited by capkid; 09-28-2013, 10:22 AM.Comment
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Re: RCA 42PA30RQ Clicking now Power
I did Check the Voltage with the boards disconnected. And the Voltage seems to be fine. I don't really know the history of this TV because my buddy just brought a new one right after it had died so I told him I would give it a shot and try fixing it. I do believe that the one click could be the TV actually powering on. There's a two second pause than a click after I turn the TV on. SO I guess its just the TV powering on when I hear the one Click. I think my first purchase is going to me the Y-Main. Like I said earlier I had already check the Y Buffer for shorts and it seems fine. So I guess this is my first step. Good Idea?Comment
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Re: RCA 42PA30RQ Clicking now Power
When you replace boards on these thin Samsungs, it is highly recommended to replace both X- and Y-Main boards at the same time due to how the energy recovery path is chained between boards.Please do not PM me with questions! Questions via PM will not be answered. Post on the forums instead!
For service manual, schematic, boardview (board view), datasheet, cad - use our search.Comment
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Re: RCA 42PA30RQ Clicking now Power
I agree with Tom. If you're going to board swap without doing further testing, replace both the Y-main and X-main. Otherwise, the risk is high that you will blow your replacement Y-main. ShopJimmy.com is your best bet because of their 6-month warranty.
Edit: It sounds like Tom is advocating replacing both regardless of a singular failure.Last edited by capkid; 09-28-2013, 10:48 AM.Comment
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Re: RCA 42PA30RQ Clicking now Power
Forgive me if I sound like a novice to this....But How would I Test the other boards for shorts. The only way I knew how to test the Y Buffer for shorts is by watching a Video Tom had posted on a thread. Again, I'm new to this but pretty good at teaching my self with electronics. As long as I have knowledgeable People like yourself to guide me.Comment
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Re: RCA 42PA30RQ Clicking now Power
Each of the transistors (three legged devices) on the heatsinks, test them. To test a transistor mentally number pins 1,2,3, order doesn't matter but be consistent between devices. Then test on diode mode between 1-2, 2-3 and 1-3. The only reading expected is a reverse diode (300 ~ 800mV) between S-D pins (two of the pins.) For two legged devices -- diodes -- test between 1-2 and 2-1, you are expecting a value of 100 ~ 800mV one way and open circuit the other way.
Readings of near zero are indicative of a shorted transistor/diode, and hence bad board. Depending on the price of the board, replacing it may be more economical than repairing it, especially if you have less experience with diagnosing and testing MOSFET and IGBT circuits.Last edited by tom66; 09-28-2013, 11:01 AM.Please do not PM me with questions! Questions via PM will not be answered. Post on the forums instead!
For service manual, schematic, boardview (board view), datasheet, cad - use our search.Comment
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