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Please do not PM me with questions! Questions via PM will not be answered. Post on the forums instead!
For service manual, schematic, boardview (board view), datasheet, cad - use our search.
Please do not PM me with questions! Questions via PM will not be answered. Post on the forums instead!
For service manual, schematic, boardview (board view), datasheet, cad - use our search.
I pulled the Y-buffer & tested it according to that video. I dont have a sound option on my meter. I have it set on diode. I get a reading of .8-1.5 on most pins. Is that the correct setting I should use? What reading would indicate a fault?
I would try using ohm mode - internal diode bias of meter may give incorrect results. Also make sure you get probes around same way as I did in video.
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Usually it's the connector where all the pins are grouped. There are several lots, -Vsc(floating GND) and Vof(output), the output path is the main output from the Y-main and has the most pins due to the higher current. Typically you want to test from the output to each of buffer outputs. That being said I would not expect a bad buffer on these newer Samsungs to damage a Y-Main and I suspect the board you got was defective.
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Ok, thanks. I'm going to borrow a different meter to check it, I don't quite trust mine for something like this.
I haven't bought any new boards before so I don't know how often you get a bad one but I would hate to put another one in & fry it as well if there's another problem.
What you can try if you get a new board is to test it without the Y-buffer connected. That being said, these Y-main boards can usually handle a shorted -Vsc without damaging themselves. They just go into protection mode.
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Alright, Thanks. Just out of curiosity, I put the old Y-main back in disconnected from the X main & Y buffer. It read -190 VSC. I reconnected everything & it still read -190 VSC. Does this change anything or are the two Y-mains still bad but in different ways?
I put the new Y-main back in & tested off the "side" of the VSC test point instead of the center & it reads -188. It's supposed to be -193. Still no change in the picture.
That does change things, what happened for it to go from 0 to -190V? Can you try with buffer board installed?
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It must not get a good enough connection for some reason in the center, I cleaned it with alcohol but it didn't change. I assume the VSC was always -188, I just failed to get the reading.
OK. Different tact. If you look at the control board there should be an LED on it. The LED will either blink once a second or light for 5 seconds and dark for 2 seconds, what does it do?
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Well, it sounds like the control board is shutting down but not going into its fault state indicated by 5s on - 2s off. I don't know if these older Samsungs do that, for sure. But the LED should blink once a second if the system is working. I can suggest a control board replacement but I'm not confident it will fix it.
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The buttons on the front (power, channel, volume, etc..) are non responsive. Are they related to the control board?
Seems like it's either the control board or the power supply board at this point.
I found a used control board for $13. I think I'll order it & if that doesn't fix it, try a PSB.
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