Toshiba 42WL66 Continuous Clicking sound

[DjKrish]

Ok so this tv has been clicking once u turn it on and there's no whatsoever light on he front of the tv. If u let it click like for few minutes then it comes alive. Once the tv clicking stops, the red light comes up. Its like it needs some heat. Once its working, it will work for ages if u didn't turn it off. I already re solder all the cold joints on the power board, no bulging faulty caps. What else could be the culprit?

STR-Z4479?

SRX-2039?

STR-6765?

Or the Big 450V 270uf cap? Used a capacitance meter and tested this cap, its only showing 244uf, that's pretty far though.

Any help will be highly appreciated to guide TQVM

[kaboom]

Re: Toshiba 42WL66 Continuous Clicking sound

Ok so this tv has been clicking once u turn it on and there's no whatsoever light on he front of the tv. If u let it click like for few minutes then it comes alive. Once the tv clicking stops, the red light comes up. Its like it needs some heat. Once its working, it will work for ages if u didn't turn it off. I already re solder all the cold joints on the power board, no bulging faulty caps. What else could be the culprit?

STR-Z4479?

SRX-2039?

STR-6765?

Or the Big 450V 270uf cap? Used a capacitance meter and tested this cap, its only showing 244uf, that's pretty far though.

Any help will be highly appreciated to guide TQVM

One of the first things I fixed many years ago was a 15" CRT monitor. It did the very thing you just described.

I found a 12V supply that was below 2V, and slowly increased over about 10 minutes. It never made it over 8V. I clipped a temporary supply in and it came to life. If I removed the temp supply connected after half an hour, it would keep running. And, just like your unit, it would not come back on after being shut off.

There was a bad cap on that 12V supply- replacing it, fixed it. And this cap didn't look bad, either.


If I were you, I'd recap, at the very least, that entire power supply.

Would I assume correctly that this clicking problem has gotten worse over time, and is also worse at lower temperatures?

[DjKrish]

Re: Toshiba 42WL66 Continuous Clicking sound

Hi kaboom, thanks for the swift reply. I have popped out all the caps and tested the capacitance one by one, all the caps seems to be fine and within its range. Nothing seems to be open or short. Im confused. Could it be one of the IC's thats faulty? Maybe after heating up the IC works fine. Heard about this in couple of forums though.

[kaboom]

Re: Toshiba 42WL66 Continuous Clicking sound

Hi kaboom, thanks for the swift reply. I have popped out all the caps and tested the capacitance one by one, all the caps seems to be fine and within its range. Nothing seems to be open or short. Im confused. Could it be one of the IC's thats faulty? Maybe after heating up the IC works fine. Heard about this in couple of forums though.

They are not:
(not my video)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cb4wWEWQiQw

"Basic" cap meters will not show all possible faults!
They can have high ESR and still "appear" OK on such a tester.

You are confused because the problem you are looking for is beyond the capability of your instrument. Also, there can be other caps in parallel with the one you may be trying to test.

Stop guessing and wasting your time. Replace them all and be sure. You have typical badcap symptoms, based on your OP.

Panasonic FC, FR, and Nichicon PW, PM, HE are some possible choices. I need to know what's in there now to better be able to suggest a replacement series.

Those caps would be replaced, regardless of anything else, if I was working on that unit.

You can probably recap that for the same, or less, than a good ESR meter.

[DjKrish]

Re: Toshiba 42WL66 Continuous Clicking sound

Ok ive replaced STR-Z4479 and STR-6765. No more clicking no matter hot or cold and tested for almost few days now. Looks like the caps are safe.

[satinser]

Re: Toshiba 42WL66 Continuous Clicking sound

If your still active I would be interested to Know whether changing STR-Z4479 and STR-6765 did cure the fault or whether the problem reoccurred. I would be interested because I have exactly the same fault. Like you I tested all the caps with ESR meter and all ok.