Samsung LNT4061FX-XAA repair

[budm]

Got this one in for easy repair.

[tom66]

Re: Samsung LNT4061FX-XAA repair

Wow, still bad Samwha in 2013? Gotta keep an eye out for more like these. I picked up the LE40A656 a while back (~6mo) with bad caps, but I thought that was luck or they didn't use it much so it died much later than the rest.

Whenever I see any bulged Samwha on PSU outputs, I always replace ALL of the bulgers.

Shame it uses a Chi-Mei panel!

[aaronwt6]

Re: Samsung LNT4061FX-XAA repair

Just picked up this same set. Changes the 2x 10V 2200uf and 2x 25V 1000uf capacitors and its good to go. Probably should do the others but they look ok and I don't have them on hand.

Same ones Bud has on the last picture on his first row.

[cliff_hootarski]

Re: Samsung LNT4061FX-XAA repair

Just fixed one of these myself. It was the main filter cap(220mF/450 WVDC). Showed open circuit on my ESR meter. Took it off the board
and shook it, and it actually rattled inside!

[tom66]

Re: Samsung LNT4061FX-XAA repair

That's a lucky fix, often when that cap goes bad it damages the PFC circuit.

[momaka]

Samsung LNT4061FX-XAA repair

Sorry for resurrecting this rather ancient thread from almost 10 years ago. But I figured I can just add my info here, rather than create a new thread, given how old this TV is now. Heck, I was thinking of posting the entire thing in the worthless repair thread, given its age (not to mention how little TVs cost these days, especially older “non-smart” ones like this... but I’ll digress.)

My patient is also a Samsung LNT4061FX-XAA. However, I’ll note one key difference in the model no: mine is a LN-T4061F S (or is it 8, I can’t tell), whereas budm’s is LN-T4061F C. It’s still a 40'' CCFL-backlit TV. But mine is from 2007 vs. 2008 for budm’s. Seems the PSUs have small differences too, based on the pictures… which is why I am posting this here and not in a new thread, so hopefully the differences become more visible.

Here is a picture of the label of the TV:
https://www.badcaps.net/forum/attach...3&d=1672803204

Some pictures of the original PSU board, which has Samsung part number BN44-00167A, rev 1.0 by Hansol. PCB model is SIP400b.
https://www.badcaps.net/forum/attach...1&d=1672802588
https://www.badcaps.net/forum/attach...1&d=1672802588

Next, a list of the caps found on the PSU board.
https://www.badcaps.net/forum/attach...1&d=1672802588

For those of you who may not able to read my handwriting or don’t want to log in to view pictures, here is the list in written form:
1x SamWha WB, 25V, 1000 uF, 12.5 x 22 mm ---> filters DC13V rail
1x SamWha WB, 25V, 1000 uF, 10 x 22 mm ---> filters 13V rail
4x SamWha WB, 10V, 1000 uF, 10 x 18 mm ---> 3x filter DC5.4V rail, 1x filters STB DC5.2V rail
1x SamWha RD, 25V, 220 uF, 8 x 13 mm ---> filters DC12V rail, linearly-generated from DC13V rail.
5x SamWha RD, 50V, 47 uF, 6.3 x 11 mm
2x SamWha RD, 50V, 10 uF, 5 x 11 mm
2x SamWha RD, 50V, 1 uF, 5 x 11 mm
2x SamWha RD, 50V, 0.22 uF, 5 x 11 mm
1x SamWha LP, 450V, 220 uF, 35 x 30 mm, 105°C ---> primary filter cap

And here is the PSU board after I recapped it (partially, but that’s all for now):
https://www.badcaps.net/forum/attach...1&d=1672802588

Notes for the output caps:
- single red dot = DC5.4V
- two red dots = DC13V
- three red dots = DC12V
- blue dots = Stand_by DC5.2V

In regards to cap brands and series – these TVs / PSU boards are not picky at all. For one of the 10V 1000 uF SamWha WB caps, I used Panasonic FL 16V, 1500 uF (a slight increase in the capacitance and substantially lower ESR.) So any decent 105°C –rated caps with low ESR should work OK… though probably best to stick with Japanese brands if long life is desired. I don’t know how budm’s PSU board runs, but mine does get quite hot, and this is visible from the slightly darkened PCB too (being cheap Phenolic kind.)

I also changed a bunch of the small 47, 10, and 1 uF caps that looked like they were in hot spots. IIRC, a few of these did have high ESR. Some of them are responsible for startup operation of the standby and main PSU, so if you encounter this TV board and none of the output caps look bad, then these small caps could be the issue too. I highly recommend replacing all of them. (I replaced only the few that I could identify were directly responsible for startup / standby / main PS / APFC circuits.) From another thread, it seems the big 450V cap can go bad too in some cases. I don’t remember if I checked mine. But given the age of these TVs, I do encourage either checking or replacing it as well. The only reason I didn’t is because my TV has a screen defect (row of dead / dark / dieing pixels) and I didn’t want to invest too much in it.

Just a few more pictures… the TV with all of the boards connected:
https://www.badcaps.net/forum/attach...1&d=1672802588

Also, pictures of the inverter (SSB400HA20V) and main board (BN41-00843b), in case anyone needs details off of one:
https://www.badcaps.net/forum/attach...1&d=1672802588
https://www.badcaps.net/forum/attach...1&d=1672802588

And here you can see the story of how I found the TV and also the screen defect I mentioned above:
https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showpo...&postcount=115