Panasonic Plasma 2008 TH-42PV/PX series - Removing the coating from the Front Glass

Collapse
X
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
  • tongshadow
    New Member
    • Feb 2023
    • 8
    • ss

    #1

    Panasonic Plasma 2008 TH-42PV/PX series - Removing the coating from the Front Glass

    I got this set for very cheap, it works perfectly but the catch is that the protective coating was damaged. About 45% of the screen had a green tint, you can see exactly where the layer changed colors to a blueish tone (that actually makes everything green).



    "Ok, that's probably just the anti-glare layer" - I thought. So using a microfiber cloth and automotive metal polish I was easily able to turn it into a nice mirror.



    Unfortunately, the damage was beyond this layer and everything still had a horrible green tint. I initially wanted to completely remove the glass itself since it's not bonded to the PDP, but it had to stay due to potential structural issues.

    It was time to go all out, nothing to lose here anyways. I cut the Front Glass using a box cuter and realized there were more layers above the actual glass.



    It's a simple task but requires tons of elbow grease, patience and ability.

    This is the tinted layer that enhances contrast/black levels and helps with colors, it's very similar to window tinted film. It comes out very easily.



    Now this is the worst part of the process: removing the plastic/rubber-like coating.At first I thought it was just glue, but it has shock absorbing properties, it even has little fibers. My guess is that it aids with panel strength. Anyways, in order to remove this layer more easily, lots of isopropyl alcohol and heat using a hairdryer (or maybe a heat gun) is necessary so it comes out cleanly, in single pulls.



    After removing both of those layers, we're left with the extremely hardened residual glue. Only steel wool and metal polish could do something to it, and even then it took me 2 hours to complete half of the panel.







    Here we can see the tint was caused by the plastic coating, likely victim of a strong chemical reaction. The unaffected parts of the screen are transparent, while the blue tinted ones are teal.



    10 hours later, I now have an actual 42 inch mirror! Pictures and words cant convery how much work is required, I would never do this again... at least not without better equipment.



    As a result, the screen is usable and I even noticed a significant brightness boost. The +65 Contrast setting had to be turned down to +25 for similar luminance level, without the coating. Black levels suffered because the tinted layer helps with that, but this Panasonic model in particular doesnt feature inky black levels anyways.

    This only should be done if the coating is damaged beyond repair and finding a replacement isnt an option. If the coating is fine, leave it alone!
  • Biruslapio
    Badcaps Veteran
    • Nov 2013
    • 552
    • Brasil

    #2
    Re: Panasonic Plasma 2008 TH-42PV/PX series - Removing the coating from the Front Gla

    Nice documenting of the proccess.

    I see plasmas up to 2009 with this problem increasingly more often, usually they just peel off the very fine coating on top, I guess yours had a thicker film with a lot of glue, very strange.

    These layers served to help with reflections and make the black level better at the cost of maximum brightness.

    It would be easier to remove the glass and lay it on a flat surface before doing all of this proccess, it's not much work beyond taking the back panel off.

    Did the glass get scratched after all that grinding and cleaning?

    Comment

    • tongshadow
      New Member
      • Feb 2023
      • 8
      • ss

      #3
      Re: Panasonic Plasma 2008 TH-42PV/PX series - Removing the coating from the Front Gla

      I only scratched the glass when making the cutouts to pull the tinted layer, the box cuter went a little deeper than expected and I got nice straight cuts. However, the glass is very resistant, I didnt notice any micro scratches from the steel wool+metal polish.
      It's always a good idea to try less abrasive materials on smaller areas to see how it affects the glass.

      That said, out of curiosity I browsed my local ads looking for similar Panasonic models to see if they had the same problems... and yes, these sets are sick. Whatever Panasonic used to glue the glass panels to the layers is starting to show its age.






      Maybe some of you have seen something like this already?

      Comment

      Related Topics

      Collapse

      • Document Archive
        Surface Mount Fuses Fundamentals Datasheet
        by Document Archive
        TE Circuit Protection offers the widest selection of surface-mount fuses available for addressing a broad range of overcurrent protection applications. Helping to prevent costly damage and promote a safe environment for electronic and electrical equipment, our single-use chip fuses provide performance stability to support applications with current ratings from .5A up to 20A.

        TE Circuit Protection also offers the telecom FT600 fuse for telecommunications applications. This telecom fuse helps comply with North American overcurrent protection requirements, including Telcordia, GR-1089,...
        10-07-2024, 06:07 AM
      • Willowfix
        A2179 t2 upper layer replacement
        by Willowfix
        Hi
        i have a a2179 which is locked. On the other hand I have an unlock t2chip(just the upper layer of ic)I wanna know if I can just change the upper layer of the t2 chip.
        any way does anyone know what each layer do?
        08-03-2024, 01:46 AM
      • psyduck
        Conformal coating on Samsung U32D970 monitor PSU, do I need to replace after repair?
        by psyduck
        I have a Samsung U32D970 monitor from 2015 I pulled out of the bad hardware pile that turned on and then turned itself back off after a few minutes of use and refused to turn back on. The PSU has part number BN44-00786A, and I found a couple posts about one that had blown with damage to the MOSFETs and PWM controller - but nothing about intermittent failures. I started a new thread and said that I would refresh the solder joints on the board to see if it was just a bad connection and possibly replace the PWM and PFC ICs. I then asked what my next course of action would be after those steps. I...
        11-27-2023, 06:56 PM
      • piernov
        NVidia bumpgate
        by piernov
        Just archiving everything related to bumpgate since most stuff has disappeared from Google. Maybe people will finally take the time to read some of it and stop shouting "reflow gpu" at every occasion but rather try to understand what the real issue is…
        Interesting parts about the failure analysis are "Why Nvidia's chips are defective" and "Why Nvidia's duff chips are due to shoddy engineering"


        May complete this post at a later date with more details.
        Basically issue is a combination of thermal dissipation of the chip with hotspot,...
        03-27-2021, 10:34 AM
      • Prott
        PCB Layer to layer short on a low voltage power plane - how to find it?
        by Prott
        Hello!
        Recently I have a problem finding a dead short (as far as my cheap multimeter is concerned) on a multilayered (12 layer) PCB. It is caused due to mechanical stress (warping the board and, I assume, cracking inner layers). Injecting voltage of 0.9 V (operational voltage of that part of the circuit) and drawing 0.5 W doesn't cause any visible hotspot on a thermal camera.

        Does anybody have any tips & tricks in order to locate the short more or less precisely? The area has a lot of powerplanes, so it's both blessing and a curse.

        Silly idea no. 1: Can I...
        08-01-2024, 12:09 PM
      • Loading...
      • No more items.
      Working...