Apple IIe DynaComp

Collapse
X
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
  • sellmore
    Member
    • Dec 2016
    • 11
    • USA

    #1

    Apple IIe DynaComp

    So the magic smoke escaped from my Apple IIe and I am going to attempt to replace the caps. Before I do, I have two questions:

    1) Does anyone have a list of modern substitutes to replace them with or know where I can find a rebuild kit?

    2) can someone tell me what those 4 black things are between the orange caps on the DC side? They have heat shrink on them obscuring any kind of identification and I wanted to ask before I go cutting it off.
    Attached Files
    Last edited by sellmore; 12-14-2016, 04:53 PM.
  • PeteS in CA
    Badcaps Legend
    • Aug 2005
    • 3581
    • USA, Unsure of Planet

    #2
    Re: Apple IIe DynaComp

    Holy cow! That's an antique by personal computer standards. The date code on the bridge rectifier is 27th week of 1982. It's probably a discontinuous flyback design.

    The components you asked about are what folks here like to call "Pi inductors". They're wire wound on ferrite rod cores and are on O/P lines between two electrolytic capacitors (draw out the schematic and it looks like the Greek letter Pi). They probably won't have any markings.

    If you're planning to do a refurb, all of those electrolytic caps are over 30 years old. That alone makes them dubious. Replacing the general purpose caps should be no problem. They're probably rated for 85C, but I'd replace them with 105C general purpose parts.

    It's the O/P caps that get interesting. The pix aren't clear, but they look like United Chemicon RX or RXA series, or maybe Marcon. For 1982, they were the lowest ESR parts around. Nowadays, well modern parts are so much better that they could cause stability problems. I'd suggest Nichicon PS or PM series, Rubycon YXF, or United Chemicon PJ series, in that approximate order of preference (maybe YXF before PM).

    The I/P caps look like 100uF, 200V. Make sure you match the lead footprint. Even with 105C parts instead of what I suspect are 85C original parts, that could be an issue. Going with 150uF or even 220uF parts instead of 100uF (assuming my reading of the value is correct) should be OK.
    PeteS in CA

    Power Supplies should be boring: No loud noises, no bright flashes, and no bad smells.
    ****************************
    To kill personal responsibility, initiative or success, punish it by taxing it. To encourage irresponsibility, improvidence, dependence and failure, reward it by subsidizing it.
    ****************************

    Comment

    • goontron
      5000!
      • Dec 2011
      • 4108
      • US

      #3
      Re: Apple IIe DynaComp

      Be weary of those clear caps on the primary, they will go bad in short order. My apple plus and tectronics scope both had those fail.
      Things I've fixed: anything from semis to crappy Chinese $2 radios, and now an IoT Dildo....

      "Dude, this is Wyoming, i hopped on and sent 'er. No fucking around." -- Me

      Excuse me while i do something dangerous


      You must have a sad, sad boring life if you hate on people harmlessly enjoying life with an animal costume.

      Sometimes you need to break shit to fix it.... Thats why my lawnmower doesn't have a deadman switch or engine brake anymore

      Follow the white rabbit.

      Comment

      • kc8adu
        Super Moderator
        • Nov 2003
        • 8832
        • U.S.A!

        #4
        Re: Apple IIe DynaComp

        had one let go in a power one 12v 18a open frame.
        helluva smoke show!
        was funny to see smoke boiling out of an external speaker.
        was on a cobra 2000.
        i hid the psu in 1 speaker and an eb63 design amp in the other.
        only cobra 2000 that did 150w pep!
        Originally posted by goontron
        Be weary of those clear caps on the primary, they will go bad in short order. My apple plus and tectronics scope both had those fail.

        Comment

        • kc8adu
          Super Moderator
          • Nov 2003
          • 8832
          • U.S.A!

          #5
          Re: Apple IIe DynaComp

          to the op.
          replace ALL lytics on this one.i used panasonic fc of the right voltage and similar can size on the output.
          the machine runs a fancy sheetmetal fab line in a local shop.
          it had been going non stop since 84!
          all the caps were shot!

          Comment

          • Longbow
            Badcaps Veteran
            • Jun 2011
            • 623
            • USA

            #6
            Re: Apple IIe DynaComp

            I'm sure that new caps are a good idea, however being the curious person that I am it would be interesting to know how the supply failed. The "black things" are your secondary chokes (inductors) and not likely to cause problems. Due to the age of the unit, I'll hazard a guess that the main switching device has blown due to a lack of filtering, no feedback and snubber network failure. At least the caps aren't leaking onto the pcb.
            Is it plugged in?

            Comment

            • sellmore
              Member
              • Dec 2016
              • 11
              • USA

              #7
              Re: Apple IIe DynaComp

              PeteS in CA - Wow back! Thanks for the quick response. You have an amazing eye my friend. I didn't even upload a good picture of the caps themselves. Here's a couple of better ones.

              Longbow - I'm curious to find out too. None of them appear to be bulging or have any detectable leakage that I can see. Hopefully somone can see something I can't. Since I plan on replacing them I haven't desoldered any from the circuit to check them out yet.

              Goontron - I'm a little worried about the clear rectangular ones as well. I've seen on various Apple forums that those have been know to ooze out some brown goo. From the attached image, I think I can see a little bit of spider webbing, so, not sure if that's the culprit or not.

              I saw one guy replaced them with much smaller, efficient caps (heatshrinking the exposed leads). Just not sure if that's the way to go.
              Attached Files

              Comment

              • goontron
                5000!
                • Dec 2011
                • 4108
                • US

                #8
                Re: Apple IIe DynaComp

                Originally posted by sellmore
                Goontron - I'm a little worried about the clear rectangular ones as well. I've seen on various Apple forums that those have been know to ooze out some brown goo. From the attached image, I think I can see a little bit of spider webbing, so, not sure if that's the culprit or not.
                Yep. Those caps have crazed... They are bad. That one closest to the big caps has gotten hot as well, you can see where the leads go up the package has darkened slightly.
                Last edited by goontron; 12-15-2016, 02:02 PM.
                Things I've fixed: anything from semis to crappy Chinese $2 radios, and now an IoT Dildo....

                "Dude, this is Wyoming, i hopped on and sent 'er. No fucking around." -- Me

                Excuse me while i do something dangerous


                You must have a sad, sad boring life if you hate on people harmlessly enjoying life with an animal costume.

                Sometimes you need to break shit to fix it.... Thats why my lawnmower doesn't have a deadman switch or engine brake anymore

                Follow the white rabbit.

                Comment

                • PeteS in CA
                  Badcaps Legend
                  • Aug 2005
                  • 3581
                  • USA, Unsure of Planet

                  #9
                  Re: Apple IIe DynaComp

                  Rifa PME271 X and Y caps are a very old series (old, but good stuff). Their dielectric is impregnated paper rather than plastic film. They are a good series, but, like any type of X or Y cap, they get hit with voltage spikes and have momentary breakdowns. Those breakdowns are not destructive, but they are damage that accumulates over time. After many many many hits (and years, probably) that damage can lead to catastrophic destruction of the part.

                  This can happen with impregnated paper, it can happen with polyester, and it can happen with polypropylene. These parts are made with metallized (sprayed or sputtered fine metal particles) dielectric rather than with foil. Breakdowns clear the metal back from the breakdown site. BUT the dielectric - paper or film - leaves a carbon residue, which becomes a fairly high resistance leakage path. And when you get enough of those paths, the part gets hot and . (Long, long ago Wima had a white paper about this)

                  So this was a very verbose way of saying that those two Rifa PME271 X caps probably should be replaced.

                  As for the switch device being shorted, that would open the fuse (if I had to guess, it's probably a 2N654x series transistor). That Motorola SCR near the O/P caps is probably an OVP crow bar on the +5V.

                  RX (the RXA, and the large can RZ and RZA series, too) had that very recognizable orange sleeve. Nichicon's PA and PB series caps of the same era had green sleeves. I've been working with power supplies, ummm, for a while. I tested an Astec Apple II+ power supply at one point.
                  PeteS in CA

                  Power Supplies should be boring: No loud noises, no bright flashes, and no bad smells.
                  ****************************
                  To kill personal responsibility, initiative or success, punish it by taxing it. To encourage irresponsibility, improvidence, dependence and failure, reward it by subsidizing it.
                  ****************************

                  Comment

                  • sellmore
                    Member
                    • Dec 2016
                    • 11
                    • USA

                    #10
                    Re: Apple IIe DynaComp

                    Originally posted by PeteS in CA

                    The I/P caps look like 100uF, 200V. Make sure you match the lead footprint. Even with 105C parts instead of what I suspect are 85C original parts, that could be an issue. Going with 150uF or even 220uF parts instead of 100uF (assuming my reading of the value is correct) should be OK.
                    I'm having a hard time finding caps for the I/P (AC) side. I found the clear(ish) Film Caps PME271M610MR30 on Mouser rated at 275volts AC, 0.1uF 20% LS 20.3mm. But I can't find ANY 200VAC (or 220 or 275) ranging from 100uf-220uf. Are the voltage on these blue caps on my board in AC or DC?

                    Other than that, here's a list of parts I came up with. Someone let me know if these look like they'll work, or if they'll wind up frying my board:

                    I/P Side:
                    Kemet - PME271M610MR30 275volts 0.1uF 20% LS 20.3mm (There's also a PME271M610MR300PS, that costs 3x as much @ $3.03, not sure what the difference is)

                    O/P Side: (These are all Nichicon)
                    UPS1A221MED 10volts 220uF 105c
                    UPS1C331MPD 16volts 330uF 8x11.5 20% 3.5LS
                    UPS1C681MPD 16volts 680uF 10x16 20% 5LS
                    UPS1C102MPD 16volts 1000uF 10x20 20% 5LS
                    Last edited by sellmore; 12-16-2016, 02:47 PM. Reason: Added Parts list

                    Comment

                    • Agent24
                      I see dead caps
                      • Oct 2007
                      • 4968
                      • New Zealand

                      #11
                      Re: Apple IIe DynaComp

                      Originally posted by sellmore
                      I'm having a hard time finding caps for the I/P (AC) side. I found the clear(ish) Film Caps PME271M610MR30 on Mouser rated at 275volts AC, 0.1uF 20% LS 20.3mm. But I can't find ANY 200VAC (or 220 or 275) ranging from 100uf-220uf. Are the voltage on these blue caps on my board in AC or DC?
                      Blue capacitors? I see none.
                      Are you talking about the big black electrolytics 200v 100uF?
                      Like all the other electrolytics, they're polarised and only handle DC. If you're searching for ones with AC ratings you'll only find them with the left-handed screwdrivers
                      "Tantalum for the brave, Solid Aluminium for the wise, Wet Electrolytic for the adventurous"
                      -David VanHorn

                      Comment

                      • goontron
                        5000!
                        • Dec 2011
                        • 4108
                        • US

                        #12
                        Re: Apple IIe DynaComp

                        Originally posted by Agent24
                        Blue capacitors? I see none.
                        Are you talking about the big black electrolytics 200v 100uF?
                        Like all the other electrolytics, they're polarised and only handle DC. If you're searching for ones with AC ratings you'll only find them with the left-handed screwdrivers
                        Same isle as the blinker fluid!
                        Things I've fixed: anything from semis to crappy Chinese $2 radios, and now an IoT Dildo....

                        "Dude, this is Wyoming, i hopped on and sent 'er. No fucking around." -- Me

                        Excuse me while i do something dangerous


                        You must have a sad, sad boring life if you hate on people harmlessly enjoying life with an animal costume.

                        Sometimes you need to break shit to fix it.... Thats why my lawnmower doesn't have a deadman switch or engine brake anymore

                        Follow the white rabbit.

                        Comment

                        • sellmore
                          Member
                          • Dec 2016
                          • 11
                          • USA

                          #13
                          Re: Apple IIe DynaComp

                          Originally posted by Agent24
                          Blue capacitors? I see none.
                          Are you talking about the big black electrolytics 200v 100uF?
                          Like all the other electrolytics, they're polarised and only handle DC. If you're searching for ones with AC ratings you'll only find them with the left-handed screwdrivers
                          Yeah, guess they are black. Been looking at caps all day, most of 'em were blue. As far as the A/C vs D/C thing, that's what I thought. However, someone ought to tell that to Mouser (see attached).
                          Attached Files

                          Comment

                          • sellmore
                            Member
                            • Dec 2016
                            • 11
                            • USA

                            #14
                            Re: Apple IIe DynaComp

                            Originally posted by goontron
                            Same isle as the blinker fluid!
                            Thanks Goon. I'll be sure to install it with my metric crescent wrench.
                            Attached Files

                            Comment

                            Related Topics

                            Collapse

                            • a_p3rson
                              Apple Watch Charging Controller Schematics / Boardview - 820-02601
                              by a_p3rson
                              Hi there,

                              I'm looking for anyone who might have information on Apple's embedded Apple Watch charging daughterboard, ID 820-02601. This is currently used by Anker in their Apple Watch charging products, but likely by other Apple partner brands as well.

                              You can see the board referenced in ChargerLab's teardown of the Anker Y1811 3-in-1 MagSafe cube - they discuss the "Apple Watch wireless charging circuit" about 2/3rds down the page. It's not pictured, but the board ID reads 820-02601-A, which sure sounds like Apple.
                              This daughterboard uses an interesting...
                              04-21-2025, 11:41 PM
                            • eryjus
                              Heathkit IO-4205 Power Supply Caps
                              by eryjus
                              Hello,

                              First, I am a complete noob with high voltage stuff. I'm learning, but I need help by someone looking over my shoulder.

                              I recently came into posession of a Heathkit IO-4205 5MHz Dual Trace Oscilloscope. The documentation is copyright 1978. I'm told it works.

                              I opened it up to check the caps before I applied power, and found the following black caps and wanted to know what they were. They are on the power supply board. I was able to read the name and model and came up with, "Nytronics 162J-1, 0.1uF, 20% tolerance, 2000VDC."
                              ...
                              05-10-2023, 11:21 AM
                            • Paxman_Swede
                              Identifying caps on an old Zoom 9000
                              by Paxman_Swede
                              Hello!

                              I have two projects on my work bench. One is a friends dead JBL Xtreme speaker with a blown voltage regulator and corresponding bulged and shorted cap. That cap has clear markings so I know what replacement I need for it.

                              The other project however is a whole different deal. It's a Zoom 9000 guitar effect from the 90th that has developed a devil hound howl when there is no input from the guitar. I'm guessing caps problem. So, since I don't really use this effect anymore I thought it would be a perfect project to learn on.

                              I have studied the board and...
                              01-14-2025, 09:51 AM
                            • captain150
                              Help with switching power supply caps
                              by captain150
                              I'm trying to repair two old VCRs, they both have bad caps. One has leaky ones, the other would barely run until I subbed in some caps from another power supply I had laying around (though they are the wrong values). This vcr works for an hour or two, but then the power supply starts whining and the picture gets lines in it. I didn't replace all the secondary caps, so another voltage might still be problematic, or the values I used are too far off.
                              I've been on mouser and digikey but the options are a bit overwhelming. I just need some new ones that will work. They don't need to be top quality,...
                              03-16-2025, 07:34 PM
                            • Foetuss
                              Gigabyte GA-6OXT :: caps question
                              by Foetuss
                              Good evening

                              I recently aquired a rev 1.1 Gigabyte 60XT, and was suprised of the amount of leaking caps for a motherboard of the P3 era. Especially the way the 330µf caps seems like the housing discolored even.
                              Now, there are some 3300µF 6.3V KZG series around the CPU. Would it be OK to replace them with something like EEUFR1A332 ? (Panasonic FR 3300µF 10V). Or was this board designed around very low ESR caps?

                              But I was also suprised about the bigger boys, which are 330µF 25V.
                              Could it be they used 25V caps because they were cheaper / available at that time?...
                              02-11-2025, 12:22 PM
                            • Loading...
                            • No more items.
                            Working...