I was wondering what is the correct way to test a computer PSU on all voltages including -5VDC with a digital multi-meter just to make sure it works before connecting it to the computer. This is a PSU that does not have a power switch on the PSU itself.
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Re: How to test computer power supply using Digital Multi-Meter?
You might review this link and see if it helps:
How To Manually Test a Power Supply With a Multimeter -
"pokemon go... to hell!"
EOL it...
Originally posted by shango066Originally posted by smashstuff30guilty,guilty,guilty,guilty!
guilty of being cheap-made!
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Re: How to test computer power supply using Digital Multi-Meter?
Thanks for the link Ed Hall as what I wanted to do was make sure the PSU was working after the recap so that I can test it without creating some short or something else that might fry the entire motherboard and everything connected to it so all that was needed was to get it powered up and see what voltages come out of the pins and if it's anywhere close. For the actual load, I can just connect a HDD or something but the PSU tested fine and it works back in the system...Comment
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Re: How to test computer power supply using Digital Multi-Meter?
Yes, you can check all voltage rails with voltmeter for a quick go\no go test, but like already stated, it's not a proper load test, and you aren't measuring ripple and noise so you're missing more than half the picture.... unfortunately that requires a proper load tester, oscilloscope etc."Tantalum for the brave, Solid Aluminium for the wise, Wet Electrolytic for the adventurous"
-David VanHornComment
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Re: How to test computer power supply using Digital Multi-Meter?
I never ask for that thorough of a test. All I wanted to know was if it's outputting the correct voltage or a short since I'm just trying to prevent the PSU burning everything connected to it. The actual load can be tested after verifying the PSU actually runs and outputs a voltage similar to what it's supposed to since this is a PC Power & Cooling Turbo-Cool 450ATX and there is a daughterboard that I ripped off the trace on that I repaired in addition to a copper board that sits on the top of the main PCB that has the mask areas of two different capacitors going through it and last connection is actually a guess as the soldered wire fell off so I don't know where it goes other than that is exactly where it sits on top so wanted to just see if it powers up and if each rail outputs the correct voltage and not like 12v on the 5v or 5v on the 12v. Other than that, the rest can easily be tested by running the system and testing for stability. I don't have the equipment to measure the ripple or noise so that's not of a concern since I'm fixing only once every 14 years, not like it's a regular thing. I just want to verify it can turn on and check the voltages without a load to be sure it's correct and it doesn't have black smoke coming out, all is fine. I never asked about testing it under load either as that can be done using another method by actually running the system 24x7x365 like usual which is more reliable. The PSU went out of service on September 10, 2014 and I need to return the borrowed PSU back to Best Buy under the 45 day return policy so just need to see if it works in whatever way possible before actually putting it back in service. If I had all that other equipment, I would be manufacturing PSU's...
Last edited by Almighty1; 10-23-2014, 02:29 AM.Comment
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Re: How to test computer power supply using Digital Multi-Meter?
I think you are the one asking "how to test computer power supply correctly?"I never ask for that thorough of a test. All I wanted to know was if it's outputting the correct voltage or a short since I'm just trying to prevent the PSU burning everything connected to it. The actual load can be tested after verifying the PSU actually runs and outputs a voltage similar to what it's supposed to since this is a PC Power & Cooling Turbo-Cool 450ATX and there is a daughterboard that I ripped off the trace on that I repaired in addition to a copper board that sits on the top of the main PCB that has the mask areas of two different capacitors going through it and last connection is actually a guess as the soldered wire fell off so I don't know where it goes other than that is exactly where it sits on top so wanted to just see if it powers up and if each rail outputs the correct voltage and not like 12v on the 5v or 5v on the 12v. Other than that, the rest can easily be tested by running the system and testing for stability. I don't have the equipment to measure the ripple or noise so that's not of a concern since I'm fixing only once every 14 years, not like it's a regular thing. I just want to verify it can turn on and check the voltages without a load to be sure it's correct and it doesn't have black smoke coming out, all is fine. I never asked about testing it under load either as that can be done using another method by actually running the system 24x7x365 like usual which is more reliable. The PSU went out of service on September 10, 2014 and I need to return the borrowed PSU back to Best Buy under the 45 day return policy so just need to see if it works in whatever way possible before actually putting it back in service. If I had all that other equipment, I would be manufacturing PSU's...
Agent24 didn't ask you to buy oscilloscope or manufacturing PSUs. he suggest you "the proper way" and the answer is with a proper load such as big wattage resistor and see what happened through oscilloscope. I can asnwer this easy question. YES you can "test" with HDD or fan as a load."There is no shortcut to be successful. No pain, no gain."
Best Regards
Rudi
Thank You
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Vizio e601i-A3 - Has Sound and Display, But No Backlight - Bad Power Supply Board or Bad LED Bulbs ?I was given this TV from my great uncle. He said it just wouldn't turn on one day out of nowhere, replaced the TV, and gave it to me to possibly fix and use for myself.
Upon bringing it home and plugging it up, it showed a standby light.
I powered it on and without a flashlight, the display showed the "V" but the lighting is very dim, but visible.
The screen seems to blackout and stay black, but with a flashlight I can see the display.
With my Playstation 4 connected via HDMI, and running a game I can hear sound.
Assuming... -
I am new to electronics and I'm understanding most of what I'm reading but I have a mosfet on my board that I've identified as a P-channel Trench Mosfet. I haven't a clue how to test this and what I should expect to see with the multimeter probes. I am hoping someone with years more experience than myself can help me understand how to use a multimeter to read this. Please look at the drawing I have attached to this and can you try to explain to me what I should be doing with my multimeter in diode mode and what results I should expect from a good mosfet?...
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Hi Folks
Need some advice on how to test a subwoofer amplifier if i have access to only a multimeter.
Problem
I have a Boston Acoustics active Subwoofer (soundware S). Its rated output is 200W. But the output i am getting is very low i can barely hear/feel it even if put the gain at max. I replaced all the capacitors in the Subwoofer amplifier but still no change.
Is there anyway to test this without getting an oscilloscope/Function generator to see if the fault is with amplifier, driver or the source??
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I have been working on this concept for quite some time now with limited success but recently I found a switching power supply that is setup for the voltage that this soldering station needs to operate at however it also needs part of the secondary circuit from the original switching power because you need several voltage rails
I once tried to get a ZD-915 desoldering station to work on a 18 volt battery power supply but unfortunately things did not go well but I did find a work around but I might try this idea again but going at a little differently more about this another time...
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