ipad pro 9.7" blew a SMD component while replacing the screen 🤦‍♂️

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  • ipatch
    Member
    • Jun 2020
    • 12
    • usa

    #1

    ipad pro 9.7" blew a SMD component while replacing the screen 🤦‍♂️

    i have an ipad pro 9.7" (1st gen) A1674 where i replaced the screen, but never attached the screen to the frame/chassis (glued down) due to the ipad being previously dropped so the new screen would never fit in the frame properly. so i need flex/bend the chassis to eventually fix the new screen in properly. so i temporarily just applied blue tape around the edges of the screen to keep it in place. when watching videos with the ipad the screen started flicker, so i though maybe the new quasi cheap amz screen i purchased was going out. so i disconnected then reconnected with power still on, and sure enough a tiny little discrete SMD component below on the logic board. apparently this is a common issue when people do DIY screen replacements. from looking at the logic board it appears that only one component was damaged, but i'm not 100% sure if that is the case.

    i'm unable to find a board file or a schematic for this particular model ipad unfortunately, but there several videos on youtube where people fix the issue by replacing i what i believe to be a "ipad inductor filter backlight" i purchased a set from northridgefix with size of 01005. something i noticed when putting the board under the microscope was the little "inductor filter" that lost its magic smoke was easily removed / dislodged from the board using my multimeter probes. it almost appeared to have removed the pad on the top portion of the connection point to where the component was soldered to the board.

    so my question is, does anybody know where to top point connects to on the board? i'd rather know that when i solder the component in place that the pad and traces are making proper connections, but from the few videos i've seen i didn't see where the trace connects to on the logic board. 🤦‍♂️ i'll add a picture below to further clarify what it is i'm talking about.

    Click image for larger version

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  • mon2
    Badcaps Legend
    • Dec 2019
    • 14011
    • Canada

    #2
    See attached. This is an EMI filter (coil) to filter noise on the power supply. There is no polarity. Be sure to apply ample flux onto the pads. Suggest to use tweezers to keep the part in place and use a fine tip soldering iron with wire solder to melt the solder onto the tips. You can always use hot air to reflow it but concerned about the hot air warping / melting the nearby connector. For this region, just use a good fine tip soldering iron to solder a fresh part onto the pads. Too risky to use hot air in this area.

    Click image for larger version  Name:	emi1.png Views:	0 Size:	30.9 KB ID:	3335954

    Click image for larger version  Name:	emi2.png Views:	0 Size:	33.3 KB ID:	3335955

    Click image for larger version  Name:	emi3.png Views:	0 Size:	1.69 MB ID:	3335956

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    • ipatch
      Member
      • Jun 2020
      • 12
      • usa

      #3
      mon2

      thanks so much for sharing the pictures and the comments.

      i ended ordering the 0101 backlight inductor filter 10 pack from northridge fix, but unfortunately it looks like my ipad 9.7" pro uses a 0201 format, so i went ahead and ordered another 10 pack of the 0201 size.

      in the meantime i found an old iphone 6 logic board, and decided to pull a inductor filter from it, as seen in the pictures below, but couldn't manage to get it to stick to the ipad logic board using my soldering iron. i'm waiting for my microscope to recharge, and going to try with a different soldering tip to see if that helps. i have really old soldering station ie. a hakko 928 with an assortment of tips but not sure if the smallest tip i got is small enough.

      something i did notice was there was continuity between the backlight filter i removed from the iphone and the resistance of the filter seemed to be 1 ohm, but it was rather difficult to keep probes steady while attempting to get a proper resistance value.

      i also managed to knock off the resistor R8328 not sure how important that is, and what are it's values. 🤦‍♂️

      anyways i'll keep trying to fight the good fight, and post back with updates.

      pictures below,






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