Well the spec sheet of the IC is:
3.0 to 6.0V Supply Operating Range (page 1 of the spec sheet).
There must be 5V regulator some where on that board.
And also now you are getting 15V on 15V Zener now instead of 6.6V as before, what did you do?
Looking at this picture, top right is pin1. https://www.badcaps.net/forum/attach...6&d=1420238187
There are no schematics anywhere for this board other then the simple power diagram. How would I find out where a 5v regulator is.
Ok I tested the last two terminals on the top left of that picture. I don't know what I did wrong before but I am getting the correct voltage from the diodes now.
If you disconnect the red, black and white wire from the SCR board and measure the voltages on the wires again do they read 7 volts and 2 volts as you had read when they were connected?
Well the spec sheet of the IC is:
3.0 to 6.0V Supply Operating Range (page 1 of the spec sheet).
There must be 5V regulator some where on that board.
And also now you are getting 15V on 15V Zener now instead of 6.6V as before, what did you do?
Looking at this picture, top right is pin1. https://www.badcaps.net/forum/attach...6&d=1420238187
I think the red wire connector goes to VDD pin 9 and the Black wire connector goes to Vss pin 10 of the ST62T60B6 chip. This can be verified by ohming it out.
The following one is for an upgrade board but I have included it as it suggests
the P1 potentiometer is to adjust the signal to the panel rather than the actual speed? http://www.treadmilldoctor.com/troub...uctions-02.jpg
I guess I'll take it back apart and try to see if the relay will click with 18v battery (may not since is is a 24v relay)
Be careful when you make the connection to the relay coil because there is snubber diode connected in parallel with the relay coil so polarity of the connection must be observed.
Sure makes things difficult when your not very knowledgeable about circuit boards. I am now getting 6.2v on DZ1 when the other night I got 6.2v then later 15.2v. Don't understand why it keeps fluctuating like that. I am also now only getting .5v from the red/black wires and 0 on black/white. Maybe I should just get another treadmill, I may be over my head in this.
Some things to consider if you by another treadmill. If this is a common problem what if it happens again. How much will a new treadmill cost and does it have the same functions. How does the cost of repairing it as opposed to buying a new one. The people that selldoor mentions seem to work with you and guarantee the product and explain the maintenance that needs to be done on a regular bases.
No other model numbers anywhere, it just has Pro-Form 785EX millennium drive, the control board is MC70 PN #124438 and power control board is PN #130857. I had checked on the sites Selldoor posted but since my problem points to the control board they want me to send it in for repairs and it is quite expensive. I got this treadmill for free and thought I could fix it so no loss if I can't. I can always remove the power board and motor and sell them and scrap the metal.
Ok - I have been reading bits of the handbook
Does it have a motor to alter the incline? does that work?
Have you checked that the cutoff switch is pressed in as well as switching it on at the on/off switch?
Next time its all together or if you have already made a note can you record
what the leds do on the POwer Supply a,when you plug in b, when you switch on .
Back to the boards what I am thinking is that the repair people say there are only a few components that might have failed - two you have probably replaced so not many left - The relay is available and quite cheap to buy and between us I think we can test most of the replaceable components.
Perhaps have a rest from it then look back through the thread and make a list of tests then try them all again.
Were you able to test the relay with your drill battery if not and you have a problem doing that -just tell us. Same with the bridge rectifier - that is a static test with no power to the board - if you dont know where to place the probes - ask. If you can do those two that is another two (that are known to give up with age) less to worry about.
I know it is difficult to try and keep up when several of us bombard you with
different ideas - if you find that - just tell us you are doing it at your own pace, then report in every so often
I appreciate the encouragement. When I power it up LD1 LD3 and LD4 light up like they are supposed to. When I select a speed the PWM light flashes like it is supposed to. The incline motor works and it raises and lowers properly. I have pulled the safety switch out and power shuts off like normal and once reinserted I can turn it back on. I haven't tested the relay or the bridge rectifier yet. I'll remove the board to try that right now but not quite sure where to place the probes. I know there is continuity but not sure if that means its good or bad.
Me neither budm is the man and the Bridge rectifiers I usually see have the contacts in line.
Anyway I think these are they on buds marked up board and it will do no harm
though will need to do again if budm says I have it wrong.
I would set meter on ohms 2000 and test DC+ to AC1 and note result
reverse the probes and test again - note result.
Then test DC- to AC2 note result - reverse the probes and test again.
Lastly test AC1 to AC2. This test can also be done on diode setting which some people prefer.
AC1 to DC+ I get .527, reversed nothing, AC2 to DC- is .522, reversed is nothing. AC1 to AC2 nothing either way. This was done on diode setting. When set to 2000 ohms there was no reading at all.
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