Elitegroup / ECS MCP61SM-GM motherboard recap

Collapse
X
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
  • momaka
    master hoarder
    • May 2008
    • 12164
    • Bulgaria

    #1

    Elitegroup / ECS MCP61SM-GM motherboard recap

    I know there are quite a few threads on this one. Badcaps.net store even has a capacitor kit for it. But as usual, I do my recaps in a rather less-than-standard way, so I figured I could post the results here anyways. Worth noting is that I always make a “cap map”, so if you are doing one of these motherboards and get lost where each cap went, this could help you figure it out.

    So… This was perhaps the first motherboard I recapped “with confidence”, so to speak. The previous two motherboards I did before that were the Shuttle XPC FB83 (which did not work, due to blown FET and likely damaged NB) and a Dell OptiPlex GX270 motherboard (which did work, but I never got to using it due to having a hard time finding a front panel connector for it.)

    Back story: after seeing some of the work I did for one of my classes in college, a friend of my roommate asked me if I could take a look at two old desktop PCs he had. He offered me to keep one if I could fix the other. The two computers were HP and eMachines from the late XP and early Vista era, respectively. I’m not sure about the models, as I never wrote them down.

    The HP had an ASUS A8AE-LE socket 939 motherboard with all-Panasonic caps. It just had a bad Bestec ATX-300-12Z CD 300 Watt PSU (bad caps). I recapped the PSU in that one and got it going quickly. Also put a ghetto heat-spreader on its SB chipset.

    The eMachines, on the other hand, came with this ECS MCP61SM-GM ver1.0 motherboard that had bad OST RLZ caps on every buck-regulated rail. This is what it looked like when I got it:




    https://www.badcaps.net/forum/attach...1&d=1498762952
    https://www.badcaps.net/forum/attach...1&d=1498762952

    Before proceeding with the recap, I made a cap map, as usual. I do this, because I tend to re-use pulled capacitors a lot (especially from Xbox 360 motherboards), which don’t always match the cap values that were on the motherboard originally. So this allows me to decide what caps to use where. Here is the cap map:



    I marked 8 important voltage rails on it (item #4 actually covers multiple rails, but I felt they could all be grouped into one.)

    #1: CPU 12V rail
    Original caps: 3x Chemicon KZG, 16 V, 1800 uF, 10 mm Ø
    Replacement caps: 4x Nichicon HN, 16 V, 1500 uF, 10 mm Ø
    There was a free 10 mm spot on the motherboard for the CPU 12V rail, so I couldn’t resist filling it in.

    #2: CPU V_core (CPU low side)
    Original caps: 6x OST RLZ, 6.3 V, 1800 uF, 8 mm Ø
    Replacement caps:
    - 6x Nichicon LF polymer, 2.5 V, 820 uF, 8 mm Ø
    - 6x Rubycon MFZ, 6.3 V, 2700 uF, 10 mm Ø
    I added the Rubycon just for a capacitance boost and since there was a free 8 mm Ø cap spot. Did it by adding short extension leads (about 3-4 mm) to the Rubycon cap to convert it to the smaller lead spacing of the 8 mm spot.

    #3: RAM V_dimm voltage (1.8V for DDR2)
    Original caps: 2x OST RLS, 6.3 V, 1000 uF, 8 mm Ø, 12 mm high, 72 mOhm ESR
    Replacement caps: 1x Rubycon MFZ, 6.3 V, 820 uF, 8 mm Ø, 21 mm high… and much lower ESR than the OST RLS.
    I only replaced one because neither of them were bulging, and the low ESR of that Rubycon cap is probably 10x lower than that of the OST RLS.

    #4: 5V rail / 5VSB rail / USB 5V rail (varies by cap spot, see map)
    Original caps:
    - 3x OST RLS, 6.3 V, 1000 uF, 8 mm Ø,
    - 2x OST RLZ, 6.3 V, 1800 uF, 8 mm Ø,
    Replacement caps (I only replaced the OST RLZ, as they were inputs to buck rails):
    - 1x Rubycon MFZ, 6.3 V, 820 uF, 8 mm Ø (placed on the NB buck regulator input)
    - 1x Panasonic FL, 6.3 V, 1500 uF, 8 mm Ø (placed on RAM V_dimm buck regulator input)
    I find it a bit funny how the OST RLZ caps were the only ones to bulge, whereas the OST RLS (which have much more inferior ESR specs) were okay.

    #5: 5V rail for the PCI/PCI-E slots
    Original caps: 2x OST RLS, 6.3 V, 1000 uF, 8 mm Ø,
    I did not replace any of them, as they are general filter caps and thus not very important. I also decided to do the recap for my roommate’s friend for free, so that is another reason why I skipped these.

    #6: Northbridge/Southbridge main Vcc rail
    Original caps: 1x OST RLZ, 6.3 V, 1800 uF, 8 mm Ø
    Replacement caps: 1x Rubycon MFZ, 6.3 V, 2700 uF, 10 mm Ø
    Just like the CPU low side, I put a 10 mm cap here in place of an 8 mm one. Figured the extra capacitance and lower ESR wouldn’t harm anything.

    #7: 12V rail for PCI/PCI-E slots
    I left the lone G-Luxon SM, 16 V, 470 uF cap as is where is.

    #8: 3.3V Standby rail
    I left all of the caps on this one as they were, as well. It is linearly-generated, so the caps are not stressed that much. It is an important rail, though, so I advice changing at least the large 1000 uF caps on it when in doubt.

    Pictures after the recap:




    And here is a picture of the back, just for completeness
    https://www.badcaps.net/forum/attach...1&d=1498762952

    That covers the entire recap.
    When I finished and tested the board, I gave both PCs back to my roommate’s friend, as I didn’t want any of them at the time (both of them had PCI-E connectors, and I had no PCI-E video cards then). He then gave the eMachines (the one with this board) to my roommate, after he pulled his files off of there. My roommate used it for maybe a few months and then junked it. He did offer it to me, but I wasn’t able to make it in time, so he put it in the trash (all that effort for nothing, I suppose ). Hopefully the trash man took it. It was a pretty solid recap, after all.
    Attached Files
    Last edited by momaka; 06-29-2017, 01:11 PM.

Related Topics

Collapse

  • momaka
    HannStar Hanns-G HC194d LCD monitor repair
    by momaka
    Normally, I never post repairs this quick after I do them, because… I am usually very slow. But today, I’m making an exception here. Why? No idea. Perhaps only because the repair details are still “fresh” in my head… which is ironic, given this is a 16 year old monitor that hardly anyone will care about today. It is new to me, though. I picked it up last November from someone on my local Craigslist. It wasn’t very close to where I live, but was close to a family friend that I had to go visit anyways. So after watching the posting on Craigslist for a few weeks and seeing it getting...
    03-15-2023, 10:17 PM
  • Nagy Daniel
    Lowest possible resistance on laptop motherboard rail - Guide Table request
    by Nagy Daniel
    Hi, I'm Daniel, and I'm new to the world of repairing motherboards.

    I would like to create a table, or more likely a guideline about the voltage rails and their possible resistance rail.

    I know that the motherboard design has a very big depend on the rail's resistance, but I would like to know what is the smallest value for a rail that can be acceptable. For example, I heard that some new gaming motherboards can have 0,5 Ohm resistance on the GPU rail, but on an older type, it could be a sign of a shorted GPU rail.

    So, I generated a table with AI so I can...
    03-04-2025, 08:24 AM
  • momaka
    no-name Radeon 9600 XT recap and cooler
    by momaka
    I've been seeing a lot of cheap-looking (but not always so cheap) no-name AGP video cards on eBay for a while. They started popping up quite a bit when the market for AGP cards became more alive all of a sudden due to interest in “retro” PCs. One thing that struck me about these cheapo cards is that they almost always seem to come with garbage caps - including the abominable Sacon FZ. That aside, though, I've been wondering about the rest of the quality (or lack of?) on these cards. So I decided to satisfy my curiosity yet again.

    This one was actually suggested to me by ChaosLegionnaire....
    11-06-2020, 07:54 PM
  • momaka
    Seasonic B12 BC-550 – barely 2 years old and with BAD CAPS already!
    by momaka
    I know I've been a little scarce lately (like the last 2-3 years), but I'm still here and still doing my thing with fixing PSUs.

    For today's considerations, I have a Seasonic B12 BC-550 [A551bcafh] 550 Watt ATX power supply for you (click on links for full size images).

    https://www.badcaps.net/filedata/fetch?id=3591771


    https://www.badcaps.net/filedata/fetch?id=3591772

    It's a modern ATX unit with fixed (non-modular) cables and an 80-plus bronze certificate. Here's the label:

    https://www.badcaps.net/filedata/fetch?id=359177...
    03-12-2025, 03:42 PM
  • eryjus
    Heathkit IO-4205 Power Supply Caps
    by eryjus
    Hello,

    First, I am a complete noob with high voltage stuff. I'm learning, but I need help by someone looking over my shoulder.

    I recently came into posession of a Heathkit IO-4205 5MHz Dual Trace Oscilloscope. The documentation is copyright 1978. I'm told it works.

    I opened it up to check the caps before I applied power, and found the following black caps and wanted to know what they were. They are on the power supply board. I was able to read the name and model and came up with, "Nytronics 162J-1, 0.1uF, 20% tolerance, 2000VDC."
    ...
    05-10-2023, 11:21 AM
  • Loading...
  • No more items.
Working...