gx280 capacitor locations

[RUGLYOT]

I started work at a new NAPA store and found they had never had anyone take care of their computers and all were out of warranty, etc. Worst of all - they have 5 GX280's (SFF) that started dieing. We bought some refurb 620's, but I decided for the cost I'd try to save some of the 280's with new caps (they were all bubbled).
The question I'm having is that the kits list 3) 16v 1000uf 8mm caps and I don't see where they are on the board! Was this an option on some boards - the first one I"m in the middle of is a 6281 board.
Thanks for your help. Russ

A little side note that I haven't seen mentioned. If your having problems cleaning the holes after cap removal, I found that a welding tip drill vise with the accompanying letter size drill bit - real clean!

[severach]

Re: gx280 capacitor locations

I've mentioned it before. I first used a 4.75" needle nose locking jaw pliers from HF 91683 but that was a hassle to use. I changed to a hand vice or pin vice from a hobby shop and that works great. It sounds like your welding tip drill vice. I use a 0.65mm or 0.8mm drill bit from HF 94606 depending on the lead diameter. The drill is set in backwards so the butt end clears the hole. The drilling end is no good for this.

[PCBONEZ]

Re: gx280 capacitor locations

The holes have a via.
A via is basically a sleeve in the hole that connects the solder pad to the other side of the board and/or traces that run between layers in the board.
- If you spin or push a via out there is no realistic way to repair it and depending on what it connects to the board may be ruined permanently.

Using drill bits is not recommended [risky] however if you are very good with tools you can make it work. [That's what I did at first too but it didn't take long to find a safer way.] If you spin the bit backwards [as severach said], make sure you are dead center and the bit is smaller than the hole, and go slow you will usually be okay. I wasn't so bold as to use a drill though. I used heat-shrink and electric tape to make the bit big enough to hold/spin with my fingers.

A better way is to heat from one side while inserting/working an appropriately sized SS needle into the hole from the other side. Solder won't stick to SS so all you have to do is spin it back out and clean up the board [both sides possibly] with some solder braid.
-
I use an -all metal- exacto knife handle to hold the needle.
Can get the handle at craft shops or home depot.
.

[PCBONEZ]

Re: gx280 capacitor locations

You should have those caps.
Look back by the 'feathery' heatsink.
Perhaps these were previously recapped and someone used an alternate value.
.

[severach]

Re: gx280 capacitor locations

If you spin the bit backwards [as severach said]

There's no spinning and no drilling. The sharp end is hidden in the vice. The butt end does the clearing. It's heat and push, just like with the pins. Drill bits are a lot easier and safer than pins.

[PCBONEZ]

Re: gx280 capacitor locations

O I C
That sounds like a PITA to me but if it works for you it's all good.
.

[RUGLYOT]

Re: gx280 capacitor locations

I did notice a "place" for 3 more caps back by the "feathery" heatsink but they were unused from the factory! Must have been an option... Thanks for the input on this! Russ

[PCBONEZ]

Re: gx280 capacitor locations

There should be three or four 16v caps back there. [Three on a GX280.]
[Between heatsink and I/O ports.]
If there aren't someone took them out and didn't replace them.
They filter the noise out between the PSU and the VRM.
NOT optional parts.

[PCBONEZ]

Re: gx280 capacitor locations

Are you sure you aren't working on an SX280?
.