iMac M1 24”

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  • Stephen
    Meow Meow MEOW!
    • Apr 2020
    • 667
    • United States

    #1

    iMac M1 24”

    Hey got a broken screen replacement and I know Apple definitely paired these LCDS to the board. I have the screen removed and it seems very easy to just swap the IC chips on the boards easily. However I don't know what this boards IC chip looks like. I would like to know where the IC chip is that has the true tone information on it. Can you point me to the right area? This also would help repair shops do 24” LCD swaps when they are cracked with known non cracked ones.
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  • Stephen
    Meow Meow MEOW!
    • Apr 2020
    • 667
    • United States

    #2
    Re: iMac M1 24”

    Bump, basically the IC chip is what we are looking for
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    • Stephen
      Meow Meow MEOW!
      • Apr 2020
      • 667
      • United States

      #3
      Basically bumping this up. I am trying to locate the secondary True Tone chip that belongs to the iMac 24" M1. There are two chips that control that information and help retain the iMacs screen functionality fully. I have attached an MacBook Air 15" M2 as a reference on what chips you need to replace in order to retain True Tone etc. The iMac 24" M1 has one similar chip however, the other chip is nowhere to be found on the iMac 24" M1 board that is similar to 14" 15" and 16" MacBooks with M1, or M2 chips. If you guys can help me locate the second chip, I would like to be able to do a True Tone repair video for this model and future models. Any thoughts on where the second chip is located on the board? If you want me to take a full screen pic please let me know. I have tried to find it but there are no schematics for this board so I am going out of the dark here.

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      • Stephen
        Meow Meow MEOW!
        • Apr 2020
        • 667
        • United States

        #4
        mon2 chime in if you have an idea.
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        • Stephen
          Meow Meow MEOW!
          • Apr 2020
          • 667
          • United States

          #5
          No takers?
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          • mon2
            Badcaps Legend
            • Dec 2019
            • 13829
            • Canada

            #6
            U250 appears to be a flash device - see the nearby SPI test points. If this is a stock flash device, make at least 2 backups with verify before considering to erase and test with experiments.

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            • Chozo69
              New Member
              • Oct 2019
              • 4
              • united kingdom

              #7
              Hi guys, if you have the original LCD with working True Tone. You can swap the light sensor from the old display to the new one and should retain True Tone.
              Attached Files

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              • Stephen
                Meow Meow MEOW!
                • Apr 2020
                • 667
                • United States

                #8
                Originally posted by Chozo69
                Hi guys, if you have the original LCD with working True Tone. You can swap the light sensor from the old display to the new one and should retain True Tone.
                Really? Have you confirmed this before? Have you tested this?
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                • Chozo69
                  New Member
                  • Oct 2019
                  • 4
                  • united kingdom

                  #9
                  Originally posted by Stephen

                  Really? Have you confirmed this before? Have you tested this?
                  I discovered this myself and have done it a couple times on 24".

                  Noticed it when I was learning taking these screens apart to clean dirt and had cut the cable on the light sensor by mistake unknowingly the first couple times and they had lost True Tone function.

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