Acer AL2416 AL2416W 24" 1920x1280 LCD Monitor

[PlainBill]

Re: Acer AL2416 AL2416W 24" 1920x1280 LCD Monitor

I am looking for replacement parts for the inverter and need your advise. All part numbers are from digikey.

Is DMN4015LK3-13DICT-ND or FDD8451CT-ND good replacement for P2804BDG?

Is FDD4685CT-ND good replacement for P5504EDG?

Are P10294-ND capacitors good for the inverter board?

What will be a good replacement for smd fuse F2 marked "M" from digikey?

Thanks for help

Tell you what. Provide a decent picture of F2 and the length and I might be able to help you. The meaning of the letter can vary, depending on the manufacturer and series of the fuse.

PlainBill

[wenter]

Re: Acer AL2416 AL2416W 24" 1920x1280 LCD Monitor

Does anyone know the replacement for fuse F2? It has "M" imprinted on it.

[wenter]

Re: Acer AL2416 AL2416W 24" 1920x1280 LCD Monitor

Are the capacitors good choice for replacement?
What smd fuse should I use to replace F2?

[severach]

Re: Acer AL2416 AL2416W 24" 1920x1280 LCD Monitor

First choice: FDD8451 DMP4051LK3
Second choice: DMN4030LK3 FDD4243

I haven't found a pair that runs as cool as the original Nikos but these do work.

[wenter]

Re: Acer AL2416 AL2416W 24" 1920x1280 LCD Monitor

I am looking for replacement parts for the inverter and need your advise. All part numbers are from digikey.

Is DMN4015LK3-13DICT-ND or FDD8451CT-ND good replacement for P2804BDG?

Is FDD4685CT-ND good replacement for P5504EDG?

Are P10294-ND capacitors good for the inverter board?

What will be a good replacement for smd fuse F2 marked "M" from digikey?

Thanks for help

[BShanahan14rulz]

Re: Acer AL2416 AL2416W 24" 1920x1280 LCD Monitor

Which MOSFETs you folks been using to replace the p5504edg and the p2804bdg? I saw mention of FDD6690 and FDD6685, do these look viable?

[hernan_perez_br]

Re: Acer AL2416 AL2416W 24" 1920x1280 LCD Monitor

Hi Alexanna, I have assembled again the LCD panel, so I can not test the tubes. I just had a look to the tubes and the solder joints and all look ok.
The yellow or reddish color comes from the tubes in the middle of the screen but only when the "acer" logo is shown, as you can seen in this video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UrVXn96_E5s

Thank you very much.

[alexanna]

Re: Acer AL2416 AL2416W 24" 1920x1280 LCD Monitor

Yes, I misunderstood.
I opened the panel and inspected the tube connections, solder joins and all looks OK.
I assemble again the panel and it is showing the "acer" logo, which should mean that I have not damaged the ribbon wires.
I will order now the panasonic FC capacitors and change them, looks like it is an issue in the inverter board and not in the tubes.
Thanks a lot.
Hernan

Well since you have already had the LCD panel apart down to the ccfl's ,If you haven't already try powering the monitor on and looking closely at each ccfl.See if one or two are giving off the yellow or reddish color.
You don't have to have the LCD's ribbon cable hooked up just insulate the pins so they will not touch a ground

[hernan_perez_br]

Re: Acer AL2416 AL2416W 24" 1920x1280 LCD Monitor

Yes, I misunderstood.
I opened the panel and inspected the tube connections, solder joins and all looks OK.
I assemble again the panel and it is showing the "acer" logo, which should mean that I have not damaged the ribbon wires.
I will order now the panasonic FC capacitors and change them, looks like it is an issue in the inverter board and not in the tubes.
Thanks a lot.
Hernan

[Toasty]

Re: Acer AL2416 AL2416W 24" 1920x1280 LCD Monitor

Misunderstood.

The current caps are -not- correct.

What I meant was, once you replace the caps you just replaced with the FC ones from RS, if it does the same thing, then you should take the panel apart.

Since you have it apart, inspect those connections. See if there are any places where it may have arced to the panel or penetrated the insulation of either the wire or the connection points. Sometimes there is a bad solder joint, so look closely where the wire is soldered to the tube.

Yes, carefully reposition that tube the same as the others.

Be -VERY- careful with those panel ribbon wires at the ends and at the top when reassembling the panel. They're easily damaged. Also, remember those connectors have a pop-up release mechanism. Basically a zero insertion force connection. No tension on cable to remove -or- reinsert.

Toast

[hernan_perez_br]

Re: Acer AL2416 AL2416W 24" 1920x1280 LCD Monitor

You are rigth I replaced the caps and it still does the same thing.
I have pull the panel apart and I realised some tubes are not in the right position, could you please let me know if the tubes are connected OK?
That may be the cause of the problem.
Thank you very much!!!

[Toasty]

Re: Acer AL2416 AL2416W 24" 1920x1280 LCD Monitor

If they had been the Samxon's that are advertised in the picture from Jaycar, you would probably be okay.

As retiredcaps pointed out, the Panasonic FC is what you need. The one you chose from RS is correct.

Ahhh... Just a thought here? If you replace the caps and it still does the same thing, the sound you're hearing -might- be a tube connection arcing to the shell. The inverter senses the problem and shuts down. Just a theory. I cannot hear the click on the video other than when you switch it on.

You'll have to pull the panel apart then, and that's another bag of worms. Many people damage the panel doing that, and trash the monitor.

Toast

[hernan_perez_br]

Re: Acer AL2416 AL2416W 24" 1920x1280 LCD Monitor

Hi Toasty, thanks for reply.
The light that comes from the tubes flashes when the "acer" logo appears on the screen.
And the "click" sound is like a relay.
I have bougth the new capacitors in a local stores (I am living in Australia)
http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView...T&SUBCATID=859
I bought them because in the description said low ESR "Capacitor Electrolytic 100uF 35V L/ESR "


The old ones are:
"NKCOM" 100uF 35v
105oC
F2056
EVL

This time I will buy them online, is this capacitor the one I have to buy?
http://australia.rs-online.com/web/s...uct&R=4491056#

Regarding the "acer" logo, it is shown 2 seconds when I switch on, and then if I swith off and on, it just flushes half a second.

Thanks again for reply!
Hernan

[Toasty]

Re: Acer AL2416 AL2416W 24" 1920x1280 LCD Monitor

I realised that when I turn it on, there is a yellow light that comes from the tubes, close to the inverter board. this ligth flashes only one second and at the same time I can hear a "click" sound.
Do you know what it means?....

It means the inverter controller is sensing an imbalance in the output to the tubes and is shutting down. Experience and the number of complaints seems to point to these being -overly- sensitive to faults.

That light looked pink not yellow in the video. The fact that it's firing the tubes, means the driver circuits are probably in good shape. You may have a weak tube and the chip sees that as a problem and shuts the unit down. Make sure the start up lighting appears equal along those slots.

The clicking sounds like a relay, but maybe I'm not hearing what you are.
Maybe it's the sound of the inverter shutting off?

Let's go back and start with replacing those caps with the correct ones.
What was the name and series off the original.

If you're not sure what I'm asking, just post each line off the old cap and we'll figure it out.

Toast

[Toasty]

Re: Acer AL2416 AL2416W 24" 1920x1280 LCD Monitor

None of Suntan's caps are suitable for this application. They are all general purpose caps and list no ESR or Ripple ratings:

https://cdn.badcaps-static.com/pdfs/...69d67effe9.pdf

You -must- use low ESR caps here. You probably just replaced failed caps with new ones that are no better in ratings than the failed ones.

Where are you getting the caps from? Local store or website?

Toast

[retiredcaps]

Re: Acer AL2416 AL2416W 24" 1920x1280 LCD Monitor

Hi, I finally could desolder the capacitors (the iron was not hot enough) and solder the new ones.

Hmm, I see you chose not to buy the Panasonic FC and got something called Suntan.

[hernan_perez_br]

Re: Acer AL2416 AL2416W 24" 1920x1280 LCD Monitor

Hi, I finally could desolder the capacitors (the iron was not hot enough) and solder the new ones. But unfortunatelly the monitor still does not work (it shows the "acer" logo and then the screen goes black).
I realised that when I turn it on, there is a yellow light that comes from the tubes, close to the inverter board. this ligth flashes only one second and at the same time I can hear a "click" sound.
Do you know what it means?
I have uploaded a 5 seconds video that shows the problem.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UrVXn96_E5s
Thank you very much!
Hernan

[Toasty]

Re: Acer AL2416 AL2416W 24" 1920x1280 LCD Monitor

If the solder does not turn to liquid with your current iron, then you will need one with more watts. Next step up I would recommend would 40w to 45w. I also recommend one that is automatically temperature controlled. I don't know what is available where you are (Brazil?).

Here's one example, an Aoyue 937:
http://cgi.ebay.com/AOYUE-937-Digita...-/120545542541

Always try to get 1 extra tip in around 1/8" chisel tip.

Toast

[hernan_perez_br]

Re: Acer AL2416 AL2416W 24" 1920x1280 LCD Monitor

Thank you Toasy, I will try twisting the cap to lift the leg. I have tried heating just one of the leg first and then the other one, but it could not lift the leg.
I will try heating both legs at the same time and twist the capacitor to lift both legs.
Then I should bend the leads on the new ones to match the old and solder them using the existing solder plus new one.
I will try it today.
Is there any tutorial to desolder surface mounted capacitors?
Thank you very much!.

[Toasty]

Re: Acer AL2416 AL2416W 24" 1920x1280 LCD Monitor

Surface. Just bend the leads on the new ones to match the old. 25w iron should be good enough. But, it isn't good enough for through hole components with lead-free solder.

Solder - 63/37 as PlainBill said, or 60/40 if that's all you can get.

Should not need a solder sucker for these. Carefully cut them free from the glue. Heat each leg at the board until the solder liquefies, then gently twist the cap to lift the leg. If it seems stuck, you may not have applied enough heat. Whatever you do, do not force it or you will tear the solder pad off the board.

Once you replace them, test the unit to see if the problem is corrected. If yes, then re-secure the caps like the originals. Use any decent brand of silicone adhesive/sealant.

If it's not fixed, then post back so we can continue to diagnose the problem. Leave the caps un-glued.

Toast