Gateway FPD2485W 24" LCD Fuse Blown, caps the cause?

[Wrog]

Re: Gateway FPD2485W 24" LCD Fuse Blown, caps the cause?

After doing some tests, I Think mine are bad too. Where do I get replacements and how do I know which ones to get? Do any of you know what they're specs are and what they should be testing at?

Need more specifics... which are you talking about (reference designators will help, or markings on the package)?

[Wrog]

Re: Gateway FPD2485W 24" LCD Fuse Blown, caps the cause?

The Big Capacitor in the center of the power board, the unkown one I don't know the uF or voltage for, it overloads when you first plug the power cord in. My multimeter will read OL for a few seconds, then it'll drop to around 165.4 v. Isn't that cap supposed to be around 200 something?

If you are on 120V mains, the big caps should read around 165V. It is probably rated for 200V.

So I'm guessing that it's bad. My question that still has yet to be answered is, what IS that capacitor? haha I can't rip it off the power board until I've gotten a replacement. It's nearly impossible to get it off, seeing as it's laying against the board and GLUED hardcore to it. You can't reach the glue with any kinda of razor/exacto knife. So what do I do? Just keep pulling at it till it decides to come loose? Honestly, I don't know what to do about it. If it's absolutely necessary for me to remove it so I know what it's voltage and uF are, then so be it. I just really want to get this thing fixed.

The general consensus is that these big caps usually don't go bad (not impossible, just not often). Are there no markings on the big cap that point to its voltage and capacitance ratings? About the glue, try heating it up with something to loosen it up. I would recommend testing out the rectifier just before the big caps to make sure it is working properly. They have 4 legs; the inner two will read your AC input voltage and the outer two will read your DC voltage (around 1.4 times your input voltage).

It's been a wonderful project and I've learned so much. Thank you all again for your help and support on this. It really feels good to be getting back into all of this again

It will feel even better once the monitor is repaired and back in service!

[Wrog]

Re: Gateway FPD2485W 24" LCD Fuse Blown, caps the cause?

The one by the touch panel ribbon cable port was odd. From the center pin to the pin on the left, it read 3.3 v. but from center to RIGHT, it read -1.95... So i switch, red on right, black on center. Still, but positive 1.95.

As for one near the center of the logic board, it was reversed. Center to left was 1.45 v and from center to right was 3.3v something odd happened though... When i flipped the poles, like, the red and black probes, from center to right read 4.87v..... what's THAT all about? Are these both bad?

Test center pin to ground (any ground point, such as a screw hole). If it is 3.3v, that's really all you're concerned about with these. They sound like they are good. Did you try to test the two larger ones (U602, U603)? Also, I don't recall seeing an answer to our questions on what caps you used as replacements.

[PlainBill]

Re: Gateway FPD2485W 24" LCD Fuse Blown, caps the cause?

oooooooookay, I discovered something today that might be a problem.

So I replaced the fuse, it didn't fix the main issue, though it's behaving how it should now (the old fuse would fiz out after a while)

So I'm poking around the power board while it's plugged in and I noticed something.

The Big Capacitor in the center of the power board, the unkown one I don't know the uF or voltage for, it overloads when you first plug the power cord in. My multimeter will read OL for a few seconds, then it'll drop to around 165.4 v. Isn't that cap supposed to be around 200 something?

So I'm guessing that it's bad. My question that still has yet to be answered is, what IS that capacitor? haha I can't rip it off the power board until I've gotten a replacement. It's nearly impossible to get it off, seeing as it's laying against the board and GLUED hardcore to it. You can't reach the glue with any kinda of razor/exacto knife. So what do I do? Just keep pulling at it till it decides to come loose? Honestly, I don't know what to do about it. If it's absolutely necessary for me to remove it so I know what it's voltage and uF are, then so be it. I just really want to get this thing fixed.

It's been a wonderful project and I've learned so much. Thank you all again for your help and support on this. It really feels good to be getting back into all of this again

By any chance are you using an autoranging DMM? I would state categorically that if your DMM is set to the 200 VDC range it is impossible for the voltage across that cap to go over 200 volts even for a fraction of a second IF you are in an area where the line voltage is 120 VAC.

PlainBill

[JasonAmora]

Re: Gateway FPD2485W 24" LCD Fuse Blown, caps the cause?

Oh, and one more thing,

Looking back on older replies from a few days back, I finally learned what mosfets were.

After doing some tests, I Think mine are bad too. Where do I get replacements and how do I know which ones to get? Do any of you know what they're specs are and what they should be testing at?

[JasonAmora]

Re: Gateway FPD2485W 24" LCD Fuse Blown, caps the cause?

oooooooookay, I discovered something today that might be a problem.

So I replaced the fuse, it didn't fix the main issue, though it's behaving how it should now (the old fuse would fiz out after a while)

So I'm poking around the power board while it's plugged in and I noticed something.

The Big Capacitor in the center of the power board, the unkown one I don't know the uF or voltage for, it overloads when you first plug the power cord in. My multimeter will read OL for a few seconds, then it'll drop to around 165.4 v. Isn't that cap supposed to be around 200 something?

So I'm guessing that it's bad. My question that still has yet to be answered is, what IS that capacitor? haha I can't rip it off the power board until I've gotten a replacement. It's nearly impossible to get it off, seeing as it's laying against the board and GLUED hardcore to it. You can't reach the glue with any kinda of razor/exacto knife. So what do I do? Just keep pulling at it till it decides to come loose? Honestly, I don't know what to do about it. If it's absolutely necessary for me to remove it so I know what it's voltage and uF are, then so be it. I just really want to get this thing fixed.

It's been a wonderful project and I've learned so much. Thank you all again for your help and support on this. It really feels good to be getting back into all of this again

[JasonAmora]

Re: Gateway FPD2485W 24" LCD Fuse Blown, caps the cause?

Yes, you'll need to take your measurement(s) while power is applied to the boards. Don't worry if you have an image or not. You'll know it's bad if your multimeter reading isn't close to 3.3 volts DC (higher or lower). While you have it open and are testing the 3.3 regulators, might as well test the others (the two larger ones). I don't remember what values they were since they tested good, but they could be -50 (5.0v) ones. Any more questions, feel free to ask.

Well I tested both of them on the logic board. It's hard to be delicate enough to not zap yourself while there's power running through the whole thing ><

The one by the touch panel ribbon cable port was odd. From the center pin to the pin on the left, it read 3.3 v. but from center to RIGHT, it read -1.95... So i switch, red on right, black on center. Still, but positive 1.95.

As for one near the center of the logic board, it was reversed. Center to left was 1.45 v and from center to right was 3.3v something odd happened though... When i flipped the poles, like, the red and black probes, from center to right read 4.87v..... what's THAT all about? Are these both bad?

[Wrog]

Re: Gateway FPD2485W 24" LCD Fuse Blown, caps the cause?

How do I know if it's bad? Does it need to have power moving THROUGH it when i test it? Sorry, it's been 8 years since I used a multimeter. I don't remember how these things work..

Yes, you'll need to take your measurement(s) while power is applied to the boards. Don't worry if you have an image or not. You'll know it's bad if your multimeter reading isn't close to 3.3 volts DC (higher or lower). While you have it open and are testing the 3.3 regulators, might as well test the others (the two larger ones). I don't remember what values they were since they tested good, but they could be -50 (5.0v) ones. Any more questions, feel free to ask.

[JasonAmora]

Re: Gateway FPD2485W 24" LCD Fuse Blown, caps the cause?

This is the voltage regulator that I was talking about earlier -- probably marked AS1117L-33. The -33 on the end means it's a 3.3v regulator, so probe the center pin for DC voltage using your multimeter (red on center pin, black on ground). There are 2 of them on the logic board, and 1 on the USB sub-board. Replace with 497-1241-1-ND from Digikey for the ones that test bad (assuming you're in the USA).

How do I know if it's bad? Does it need to have power moving THROUGH it when i test it? Sorry, it's been 8 years since I used a multimeter. I don't remember how these things work..

[retiredcaps]

Re: Gateway FPD2485W 24" LCD Fuse Blown, caps the cause?

There's no obvious signs of any damage or improperly soldered parts on either the power board OR the logic board.

It still wouldn't hurt to see the actual picture of the backside of the power board. Someone else may be able to spot something?

[Wrog]

Re: Gateway FPD2485W 24" LCD Fuse Blown, caps the cause?

I've heard tell of a component going bad on the logic board though that causes the touch panel to respond slowly. It's some kind of a timer or limiter next to where the ribbon cable plugs in.

I don't remember what they're called, but if it's possible they're the problem, that'd be good to know..

This is the voltage regulator that I was talking about earlier -- probably marked AS1117L-33. The -33 on the end means it's a 3.3v regulator, so probe the center pin for DC voltage using your multimeter (red on center pin, black on ground). There are 2 of them on the logic board, and 1 on the USB sub-board. Replace with 497-1241-1-ND from Digikey for the ones that test bad (assuming you're in the USA).

[JasonAmora]

Re: Gateway FPD2485W 24" LCD Fuse Blown, caps the cause?

PS. JPEG files are limited to 2000x2000 and 1.91MB which is why your photos won't upload. Right underneath the upload button is a grid of the file types, their max size and dimensions.

Well, my computer is retarded I suppose, since I've tried 3 different web browsers and different file extensions and it STILL won't work. Yes, the images are smaller than 2000x2000px So I'm uploading them to a third party and will link them as I go along.

However, I forgot to pay attention to the file size. Sorry.

I left the images HUGE this time so you can see it up close. Sorry if that's a problem.

Top Side of Logic Board:
http://img208.*************/img208/3773/0000295.jpg

Underside of Logic Board:
http://img814.*************/img814/9801/0000297.jpg


There's no obvious signs of any damage or improperly soldered parts on either the power board OR the logic board.

I've heard tell of a component going bad on the logic board though that causes the touch panel to respond slowly. It's some kind of a timer or limiter next to where the ribbon cable plugs in.

Shown HERE:
http://img121.*************/img121/3964/logicboard.jpg


I don't remember what they're called, but if it's possible they're the problem, that'd be good to know..




Thanks again for you help...

[retiredcaps]

Re: Gateway FPD2485W 24" LCD Fuse Blown, caps the cause?

I've ordered a replacement fuse and we'll see what happens when i replace it.

Also check the fuse soldering.

[retiredcaps]

Re: Gateway FPD2485W 24" LCD Fuse Blown, caps the cause?

I've had this monitor for well over a year now, and it's always been the same since I got it. I can get it to work, IF the video source is on and feeding it, AND if i can plug it just right. I used to have to plug the cord in the back of the monitor at certain angles and listen for a specific pattern in the electric shock to get it to turn on.

You could have bad/cold/poor solder joints on the backside of your powerboard. If you flip over the powerboard, look at the solder right at the AC input.

See what good/bad joints look like at

http://workmanship.nasa.gov/lib/insp...uirements.html

So that's really my main problem. It'll power up after a while, but the touch panel controls lag beyond all reason. If i press the menu button above the power button, it'll wait 40 seconds, then think i'd held it down, pulling up the product tour, rather than the main menu. Then to get it to go away, i had to wait another minute before the touch panel would respond to touch again, THEN press the "exit menu" button...

The menu functionality is controlled by the chip on the logic board (green color). We need a picture of that (top and bottom). The main chip could be poorly soldered or overheating?

All in all, it's extremely temperamental.

Now. I've replaced all THESE capacitors in the picture below.

Are they Panasonic FM caps?

When I plug it in and listen closely, it sounds like the power shorts out somewhere ON the power board. Somewhere around HERE.

Check for poor/bad solder joints. Post a clear focused picture of the backside with a closeup of this area.

I've ordered a replacement fuse and we'll see what happens when i replace it.

It is unlikely to be your fuse. If the fuse is bad, you would not get any power at all.

PS. JPEG files are limited to 2000x2000 and 1.91MB which is why your photos won't upload. Right underneath the upload button is a grid of the file types, their max size and dimensions.

[JasonAmora]

Re: Gateway FPD2485W 24" LCD Fuse Blown, caps the cause?

Well, my computer is retarded I suppose, since I've tried 3 different web browsers and different file extensions and it STILL won't work. Yes, the images are smaller than 2000x2000px So I'm uploading them to a third party and will link them as I go along.


I've had this monitor for well over a year now, and it's always been the same since I got it. I can get it to work, IF the video source is on and feeding it, AND if i can plug it just right. I used to have to plug the cord in the back of the monitor at certain angles and listen for a specific pattern in the electric shock to get it to turn on. Now, i've lost my patience with doing that so I let it sit there for an hour and wait for it to decide to turn on.

Afterwards, whatever video source was plugged in must stay on or the monitor wigs out. If I want to turn off the source, I.E. a computer or my Xbox, i'd first have to press the blue power button on the side touch panel, wait 10-20 seconds for the monitor to decide to turn off, THEN turn off the computer or xbox.. If i wanted it to keep working, i'd have to make sure that the computer or xbox was on beFORE i turned the monitor back on.

So that's really my main problem. It'll power up after a while, but the touch panel controls lag beyond all reason. If i press the menu button above the power button, it'll wait 40 seconds, then think i'd held it down, pulling up the product tour, rather than the main menu. Then to get it to go away, i had to wait another minute before the touch panel would respond to touch again, THEN press the "exit menu" button...

All in all, it's extremely temperamental.

Now. I've replaced all THESE capacitors in the picture below.

http://img265.*************/img265/3264/replaced.jpg



That didn't fix anything.


So here are my thoughts.

When I plug it in and listen closely, it sounds like the power shorts out somewhere ON the power board. Somewhere around HERE.

http://img195.*************/img195/6264/suspectq.jpg


So it's either this transformer:

http://img52.*************/img52/2698/transformer.jpg


This fuse:

http://img514.*************/img514/2861/fusea.jpg


Or any ONE of these things I don't know what they are.


http://img690.*************/i/redcapunkown.jpg/
http://img148.*************/i/coilsunknown.jpg/
http://img294.*************/i/blackboxunkown.jpg/


I've ordered a replacement fuse and we'll see what happens when i replace it. But other than that, I don't know what else to say. I think the problem mostly has to do with the power board, not the inverter or the processor board. Cause it's obvious the sound is coming from the power board. I've removed it from the monitor entirely and carefully plugged it in, so i know for sure there's a problem THERE.

Beyond that, I'm clueless..


Was that descriptive enough? Or do you need more?

[Wrog]

Re: Gateway FPD2485W 24" LCD Fuse Blown, caps the cause?

I don't know how to post pictures on here. I've tried that attachment thingy below the reply box, but it's not working for me at all.. Any help?

Definitely follow the link that retiredcaps provided on how to attach pics. Also keep in mind the quality of info that you give affects the quality of help you get. Using this topic as an example, you should give more specifics about what's not working... Are you getting some sort of error message?

[retiredcaps]

Re: Gateway FPD2485W 24" LCD Fuse Blown, caps the cause?

I don't know how to post pictures on here. I've tried that attachment thingy below the reply box, but it's not working for me at all.. Any help?

That is the correct way to attach, but your picture has to be less than 2000x2000. See

https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=1868

[JasonAmora]

Re: Gateway FPD2485W 24" LCD Fuse Blown, caps the cause?

Ok, I'm retarded. I don't know how to post pictures on here. I've tried that attachment thingy below the reply box, but it's not working for me at all.. Any help?

[Wrog]

Re: Gateway FPD2485W 24" LCD Fuse Blown, caps the cause?

I get power. After about an hour of sitting there, it'll power up and whatever video source is currently feeding it is what comes up. But the panel control on the side doesn't work. Sometimes it does, sometimes it doesn't. It's extremely temperamental. I have it working somewhat right now, but it'd be nice to be secure in knowing that i can switch sources without consequence.

Could be a regulator that's shot. Post pictures of the logic (main) board and someone can point out where they are and how to test them. When you say the panel control doesn't work, do you mean you don't get any lights? Do the touch controls not respond? Do they light up and then go away? Are they red, purple or blue? Specifics would help diagnose.

Forgive me, you're going to have to talk a bit stupider for me. A lot of the terms you're using I don't know what they are, what they do, or what they look like. Or what their relevance is to my debacle....

Read, read, read and then read some more. The only way to really understand is to take it all in and then ask questions. There are tons of highly skilled folks here who love to share their knowledge. If something doesn't make sense, or if you want to know how to do something, by all means ask! For instance, testing a fuse: a continuity test with determine if it's good or not. Put your multimeter on resistance setting, and touch each end of the fuse (doesn't matter which direction). High reading (open) means it's bad, low (near 0) means that it's good.

EDIT: Forgot to mention -- posting pictures of your board(s) along with as much detail as possible is the fastest way to get help. It's much easier to point to a picture than it is to describe something.

[Wrog]

Re: Gateway FPD2485W 24" LCD Fuse Blown, caps the cause?

I've replaced all the other ones BUT the big one in the middle of the board. I'm having trouble getting it OFF the board (power board) cause the glue that's holding it down, so I don't know what it's charge is to buy a proper replacement.

My theory is that either that big cap is bad or shorted, or that the fuse next to the ac-inlet is bad...

Long story short, I was wondering what capacitor you used as a replacement for the big one, and where did you get it?

A couple of things -- if you've replaced all but the big caps, which did you use (brand/series, or where did you purchase them)? Not all capacitors are good replacements even if they have the same voltage/capacitance ratings (radio shack caps, for instance), and it could be contributing to some of the problems you are seeing.

For the big caps, either take pictures and post them so that someone can identify them, or list the make/model/series (and diameter/height). Putting your location in your profile will help someone suggest a place to purchase them, or you can check the FAQ here in the forums for a list of good places to buy.