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    Re: Samsung Syncmaster 245BW

    https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=2280
    The above is a link to a post titled "What caps should i buy?"

    The following are Panasonic FC capacitors, just need to verify the diameter and/or height will work in your monitor:

    P10316-ND - 10uF 50V - $0.33 each
    P10312-ND - 1uF 50V - $0.33 each
    P10341-ND - 68uF 63V - $0.48 each
    P10321-ND - 47uF 50V - $0.34 each

    Comment


      Re: Samsung Syncmaster 245BW

      CM813: 10uF 50v - use FC
      CB810: 1uF 50v - use FC or UCC KZE
      CB806: 68uF 63v - use UCC LXY (10 x 16)
      CM810 & CP808 & CP811: 47uF 50v - use FC or Nichicon PW

      <snip>
      CM813: 10uF 50v (could not find FR or FM)
      CB810: 1uF 50v (could not find FR or FM)
      CB806: 68uF 63v (could not find FR or FM)
      CM810 & CP808 & CP811: 47uF 50v (could not find FR or FM)

      <snip>

      I got this monitor from someone who gave up on it, I hope he didn't replace any of the caps with different caps before I got it - causing me to try to replace a wrong cap with a new wrong cap...<snip>
      According to another posting of the caps list, the values look correct.

      Since you're shopping, get the inverter caps too.

      .
      Last edited by Toasty; 11-12-2011, 08:39 PM. Reason: Inverter caps too!
      veritas odium parit

      Comment


        Re: Samsung Syncmaster 245BW

        Okay I got my caps today. Now, taking into account I don't have years of experience removing old caps (kind of tricky with two points that need to be heated enough to remove the old cap) and soldering in the new ones (not so hard), the more caps I swap out the higher the chance of an error or a complication... Are there any of these caps that are the "usual suspects" that cause the flickering (the type of flickering that becomes less frequent the longer the monitor is on or the lower the brightness is) or should I just go for bank and do them all at once...?

        Comment


          Re: Samsung Syncmaster 245BW

          Originally posted by Prismatic View Post
          Okay I got my caps today. Now, taking into account I don't have years of experience removing old caps (kind of tricky with two points that need to be heated enough to remove the old cap) and soldering in the new ones (not so hard), the more caps I swap out the higher the chance of an error or a complication... Are there any of these caps that are the "usual suspects" that cause the flickering (the type of flickering that becomes less frequent the longer the monitor is on or the lower the brightness is) or should I just go for bank and do them all at once...?
          Let's address technique first.

          There are a number of tutorials on soldering available on you-tube, and there are suggestions on technique in the Frequently Asked Questions section. For myself, I observe which way a cap could be tilted, heat the lead on the opposite side until the solder melts, tilt the cap as far as it will go, heat the second lead, tilt the cap back, etc. (It actually took longer to type this than it takes to remove a cap this way.) I use a dissecting needle to clear the holes - heat the solder until it melts - insert the dissecting needle, wait until the solder hardens, remove the needle.

          As far as which approach, I say do all the caps at once. The problem is that once you get the power supply working the natural urge is to stop replacing caps. The problem is that the caps on the power supply fall into three categories - those which have failed, those which have deteriorated, but are not causing problems - yet, and those which are still perfect. Failure to replace those in the second group will inevitably cause problems later.

          PlainBill
          For a number of reasons, both health and personal, I will no longer be active on this board. Any PMs asking for assistance will be ignored.

          Never be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the ark. Professionals built the Titanic.

          Comment


            Re: Samsung Syncmaster 245BW

            You're dealing with lead-free solder. Adding some fresh, leaded, rosin core 63/37 (or 60/40) solder to the cap connections helps. If you have a paste or liquid flux, that helps also.

            A high enough wattage iron is recommended. 35-40w minimum for single sided boards, higher for double sided and large copper plane area types (mobos). Lead-free requires a hotter (up to +20°C / +68°F) iron than leaded types.

            Do Not leave the iron on the joint for more than it needs to liquefy and move the cap as PlainBill suggested (rocking the cap). The foil traces can and do separate from the board if excessively heated. Especially true if the board has been overheated by the components (darkened material).

            If the solder hasn't liquefied within 3-5 seconds of contact:
            (a) your technique is wrong
            or
            (b) your iron is not hot enough
            or
            (c) the tip is too small and the board is "sucking" the heat out of it faster than the iron can replenish it.
            or
            (d) the iron is not properly tinned and cleaned
            or
            (e) all or any combination of the above.

            When installing the caps, try to limit the contact time of the iron to 3-4 seconds and do one lead, then wait before doing the other. I try to put several caps in place and do one (1) lead on each then go back and do the other.

            WATCH THE POLARITY!!! Hope you made a "Cap Map" indicating negative terminal side.

            Toast
            Last edited by Toasty; 11-17-2011, 01:32 AM.
            veritas odium parit

            Comment


              Re: Samsung Syncmaster 245BW

              You guys have been great! So much help! I just completed replacing every capacitor on the board and on the inverter. No issues thanks to your soldering advice! I turner her on and I was shocked that it worked perfect. I guess I set my expectations low

              This forum has a true purpose for all of us out there in need of help I am grateful to you all! Keep it up!

              -Prismatic

              Comment


                Re: Samsung Syncmaster 245BW

                Excellent! Glad to have helped!

                Go!

                Enjoy!



                Toast
                veritas odium parit

                Comment


                  Re: Samsung Syncmaster 245BW

                  back to message #380.
                  The 3 resistor problem was it

                  I opened the box and tried the wooden stick approach to stop the beads moving- no effect. I unsoldered the resistors and one had no resistance. So I replaced them all with 3W 68 ohm resistors and it worked. the noise went away

                  Thanks a lot.

                  Comment


                    Re: Samsung Syncmaster 245BW

                    I found this thread with a google search due to a broken 245bw I found on the HW recycle pile at work. Power light would come on but no backlight. Pulled it apart and the 82uF 450V CP803 looked a bit bulged on the top. Ordered a new one, replaced it, but still no luck. The 5.3v standby output was there, but no 5.2 or 24v output. The PFC stage was producing 390volts so that looked ok. Checked all the resistors according to this thread, and all tested good. I don't have an ESR or capacitor tester, but from all the posts, it seemed that it was most likely CM802, the 18nF 630V capacitor, that was gone. I went out to my local surplus electronics dealer, but the didn't have anything close. I tried Fry's - they had a space for 22nF capacitors but they were sold out, it figures. So I returned home, dove into my junk pile and found that an old circuit board I had saved from an old CFL light had a 33nF 630V capacitor. I'm not sure how close the tolerance had to be, but I thought I'd give it a go. I harvested it from the board and now have a working monitor! These forums are great! Thanks everyone.
                    Last edited by psyduck; 11-20-2011, 02:49 AM.

                    Comment


                      Re: Samsung Syncmaster 245BW

                      Originally posted by psyduck View Post
                      I found this thread with a google search due to a broken 245bw I found on the HW recycle pile at work. Power light would come on but no backlight. Pulled it apart and the 82uF 450V CP803 looked a bit bulged on the top. Ordered a new one, replaced it, but still no luck. The 5.3v standby output was there, but no 5.2 or 24v output. The PFC stage was producing 390volts so that looked ok. Checked all the resistors according to this thread, and all tested good. I don't have an ESR or capacitor tester, but from all the posts, it seemed that it was most likely CM802, the 18nF 630V capacitor, that was gone. I went out to my local surplus electronics dealer, but the didn't have anything close. I tried Fry's - they had a space for 22nF capacitors but they were sold out, it figures. So I returned home, dove into my junk pile and found that an old circuit board I had saved from an old CFL light had a 33nF 630V capacitor. I'm not sure how close the tolerance had to be, but I thought I'd give it a go. I harvested it from the board and now have a working monitor! These forums are great! Thanks everyone.
                      Good job. You should plan on installing the correct cap. Also, the original caps in this monitor are suspect; it's definitely a candidate for a complete recapping, including the large (82uF, 450 volt) one, which is also known to fail.

                      PlainBill
                      For a number of reasons, both health and personal, I will no longer be active on this board. Any PMs asking for assistance will be ignored.

                      Never be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the ark. Professionals built the Titanic.

                      Comment


                        Re: Samsung Syncmaster 245BW

                        Originally posted by psyduck View Post
                        I found this thread with a google search due to a broken 245bw I found on the HW recycle pile at work. Power light would come on but no backlight. Pulled it apart and the 82uF 450V CP803 looked a bit bulged on the top. Ordered a new one, replaced it, but still no luck. The 5.3v standby output was there, but no 5.2 or 24v output. The PFC stage was producing 390volts so that looked ok. Checked all the resistors according to this thread, and all tested good. I don't have an ESR or capacitor tester, but from all the posts, it seemed that it was most likely CM802, the 18nF 630V capacitor, that was gone. I went out to my local surplus electronics dealer, but the didn't have anything close. I tried Fry's - they had a space for 22nF capacitors but they were sold out, it figures. So I returned home, dove into my junk pile and found that an old circuit board I had saved from an old CFL light had a 33nF 630V capacitor. I'm not sure how close the tolerance had to be, but I thought I'd give it a go. I harvested it from the board and now have a working monitor! These forums are great! Thanks everyone.

                        Also, replace the three 68 ohm resistors (RB805-807) as they are also a common failure on this monitor.

                        Comment


                          Re: Samsung Syncmaster 245BW

                          Let me be the latest person to PRAISE you guys for this thread and your knowledge.
                          I've just spent a whopping $0.86 to buy three 5-Watt 68ohm resistors and my faulty 245B fired right up! WOOOT!!!!
                          And it only took about 2 hours!



                          Here's what my power board looked like after the repairs:

                          Comment


                            Re: Samsung Syncmaster 245BW

                            Originally posted by PlainBill View Post
                            Good job. You should plan on installing the correct cap. Also, the original caps in this monitor are suspect; it's definitely a candidate for a complete recapping, including the large (82uF, 450 volt) one, which is also known to fail.

                            PlainBill
                            Yes, I'll be putting together a parts list of bits to replace. The 82uF cap has already been done, and I'll upgrade the resistors to larger wattage types. Though I could do with a higher wattage soldering iron. My Weller WP35 had difficulty dealing with the larger connections. Perhaps time to invest in an adjustable solder station and a DVM with a capacitance function.
                            Last edited by psyduck; 11-20-2011, 01:06 PM.

                            Comment


                              Re: Samsung Syncmaster 245BW

                              Originally posted by denizen54 View Post
                              Let me be the latest person to PRAISE you guys for this thread and your knowledge.
                              I've just spent a whopping $0.86 to buy three 5-Watt 68ohm resistors and my faulty 245B fired right up! WOOOT!!!! Here's what my power board looked like after the repairs:
                              (image removed to save bandwidth). OMG!!! That's one of the scariest "repairs" I have ever seen. If I had ever done anything like that I would be too embarassed to show it, let alone publish a pic on the 'net for all to see.

                              The good thing is that - as you clearly aren't an electronics tech - you have demonstrated that high skill levels aren't necessary to effect a repair.
                              Friends don't let friends buy Samsung ....

                              Comment


                                Re: Samsung Syncmaster 245BW

                                Originally posted by pedro View Post
                                (image removed to save bandwidth). OMG!!! That's one of the scariest "repairs" I have ever seen. If I had ever done anything like that I would be too embarassed to show it, let alone publish a pic on the 'net for all to see.
                                I disagree with your description/assumptions.
                                Everything is soldered, and very strongly so.
                                The resistors are overkill and nothing else was available quick enough.
                                They absolutely could not all be crammed at the original spot.
                                They had to be placed in other spots where there is room for them, hence the wires.
                                I only used tape for insulation of the stripped wire.
                                This will definitely hold for decades, I see nothing wrong with it, it's all in your head / ego.
                                Last edited by denizen54; 11-20-2011, 07:39 PM.

                                Comment


                                  Re: Samsung Syncmaster 245BW

                                  Why is the picture missing?
                                  veritas odium parit

                                  Comment


                                    Re: Samsung Syncmaster 245BW

                                    Originally posted by denizen54 View Post
                                    I disagree with your description/assumptions.
                                    That's entirely your right.
                                    Originally posted by denizen54 View Post
                                    Everything is soldered, and very strongly so.
                                    The resistors are overkill and nothing else was available quick enough.
                                    I suspect most people would have waited for the right-sized parts to be available. Your call.
                                    Originally posted by denizen54 View Post
                                    They absolutely could not all be crammed at the original spot. They had to be placed in other spots where there is room for them, hence the wires.
                                    Your choice to not wait.
                                    Originally posted by denizen54 View Post
                                    I only used tape for insulation of the stripped wire.
                                    I can see that. Had it been that urgent to get it back running that I went for "off-site" placement, I for one would have used heat-shrink sleeving. That type of tape has a habit of letting go when heated, and the pcb zone in a monitor does get quite hot.
                                    Originally posted by denizen54 View Post
                                    This will definitely hold for decades
                                    Possibly.
                                    Originally posted by denizen54 View Post
                                    I see nothing wrong with it, it's all in your head / ego.
                                    If you say so. As I said, it's your call how you do it. I certainly try to be a lot more professional in my approach to all repairs. But reiterating my previous comment, if I had been tempted for whatever reason to effect a repair like that, I wouldn't wave it around. And to address Toasty's question, who pulled the pic?
                                    Friends don't let friends buy Samsung ....

                                    Comment


                                      Re: Samsung Syncmaster 245BW

                                      Originally posted by ChuckTs View Post
                                      Hoping to get another success story here, looking for help on what to replace and how. My 245 started clicking, if I remember correctly, kind of quietly for about a week before it went dead. Power still turns on, but the screen is completely black. No gx settings help, almost positive it's internal with the monitor unless I've completely overlooked something. Thank god I normally dual-monitor

                                      Took it apart; here are some 'overview' photos of every board, front and back. I noticed some kind of scum on the back of two of them, but don't see where it's coming from. With my non-existent experience, I didn't notice any busted caps or leaks on the top side of any of the boards. Let me know if you need any part numbers or closer pics or whatever. Also, if/when I get a replacement part, I assume I either need to send it in to get repaired or figure out how to repair it myself - I'll probably need soldering equipment right?

                                      I'm a complete newbie to this so any and all help is much appreciated. Thanks in advance and let me know about anything else I need to post.

                                      EDIT: I tried to upload my pics but got a "there was no security token" error
                                      Going to try posting new pics here since the last ones evidently weren't clear enough for you guys to give any feedback on.

                                      I'm really desperate now - my second of two 245bw's just broke down (I have yet to take apart the second one) and I need to work with them so I really need them fixed asap. Happened to find out that a friend has a soldering kit too which was a nice surprise.

                                      Please let me know if these are clear enough and if you think it's repairable, or if I should start scraping up funds for a new display. As mentioned in my first post, the scum seems to be on the back of the boards, but I can't see where it's coming from on the top.

                                      Thanks!

                                      http://imgur.com/a/cmM77

                                      Comment


                                        Re: Samsung Syncmaster 245BW

                                        It is preferred that pictures be attached to the post using 'Manage Attachments' - below the test entry area. That way they will be available to others.

                                        For a number of reasons, including popups and malware, some refuse to view pictures hosted offsite.

                                        PlainBill
                                        For a number of reasons, both health and personal, I will no longer be active on this board. Any PMs asking for assistance will be ignored.

                                        Never be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the ark. Professionals built the Titanic.

                                        Comment


                                          Re: Samsung Syncmaster 245BW

                                          I see 2 blown caps in the power supply. Lower left corner.

                                          Recap the entire power supply. Except for the mains cap, there are only 14 total to do.

                                          Attached your pics for you. They are a bit dark....


                                          Toast
                                          Attached Files
                                          veritas odium parit

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