Optiquest Q9 no power

[Per Hansson]

Re: Optiquest Q9 no power

Yes it is quite fun to look back at some old repairs.
Some of the stuff I repaired did not last more than a year when it was new.
And now it has been over 10 years since being repaired.
Amazing what the bean counters can do

[retiredcaps]

Re: Optiquest Q9 no power

Since it was my first attempt, I went cheap and got the cheapest soldering iron.

Hard to believe, its past 10 years later since my 1st repair and the Q9 is stil in daily use everyday.

That and a bunch of other stuff I have fixed throughout the years.

Thanks to badcaps.net members, past and present.

Hoping to fix more things for another 10 years.

PS. I don't post much, but I still visit badcaps.net daily and skim the subject headers.

[retiredcaps]

Re: Optiquest Q9 no power

04-27-2010, 05:31 PM
PS. My 1st post and I read the FAQ about attaching pics.

So it has been a little over 4 years since I did this first capacitor repair.

It has been working fine until a couple of days ago when I got these lines all across the screen. See picture. (Note to people asking for help, I shot this handheld at 1AM with no sunlight and a 1/15 shutter speed using macro mode, but as you can see, it is clearly in focus and legible.)

Switching form 60Hz to 75Hz made the problem go away for a day, but then eventually the lines came back at 75Hz.

I took it apart and was prepared to change out the voltage regulator and/or the Capxon caps on the main board. After some tests, I found voltage regulator to be within specifications and all voltages were steady and stable. While I don't have a scope or ESR meter, I did take some VAC measurements on the main board to see if there as a significant amount, but I didn't see any.

Rather than recap the entire main board, I decided to reseat all the connectors. Volia, the monitor is working and the lines are gone.

I decided not to recap the main board due to cost even though I like this monitor. I also decided to leave my original crappy soldering job intact, as-is, to see how long it would last.

Notes:

On my power board, it outputs a single 12VDC rail. Since most people leave their monitor plugged into the AC outlet, the 12V is on all the time even if their monitor is turned off. The crappy Capxon capacitors on the 12V rail simply bloat and die after a while. The originals in mine lasted about 4 years or around 35,000 hours. They probably died well before that but since I'm not the original owner, I can't verify when problems starting happening.

The Rubycon's I used for replacements 4 years ago are still nice and flat and output a solid 12.24V.

PS. All my computer stuff is connected to a power bar and once I'm done, I turn off the power bar thus removing all standby voltages.

[aperich2]

Re: Optiquest Q9 no power

oyea im working on 2 viewsonic vg730m's I got from resale store for $10. They have the pi-sb03 powerboard (same as yours)

[aperich2]

Re: Optiquest Q9 no power

question about the p10249-nd you used is the spacing correct? where its 3.5
it looks like the same as the 1000uf and its 5 mm. i ws going to buy a p10250-nd just incase of this. also for the 470 50v was looking at p11260-nd

those are my fc list but i also made a fm list which is what i will end up ordering.

fc
p10316-nd
p10326-nd
p11203-nd
p11260-nd
p10249-nd or p10250-nd

fm
no 10 50v so its a fc
p12397-nd
p12366-nd
p12400-nd
p12378-nd or p12377-nd

Would anyone change this list (digikey i plan on)

[retiredcaps]

Re: Optiquest Q9 no power

I replaced three Capxon caps in a Q9 (purchased off kijiji for cheap) today with some Rubycon 470uf 25V 105C ZL capacitors.

PS. My 1st post and I read the FAQ about attaching pics.

I thought it would be fun to update my very first post on badcaps (how time flies by).

Well, almost exactly 1 year later and 3,000 posts later, the monitor is still going strong despite my poor soldering job. It is now used by an in-law.

[alexsquared]

Re: Optiquest Q9 no power

Thank you everyone for your help. I appreciate it. I'll post back (under a new thread) of my success.

[retiredcaps]

Re: Optiquest Q9 no power

Also, I found the EEU-FM1C222B, which is a 220uF at 16v unit (through Mouser electronics).
Any potential of using this for the 220uF unit?

That will work fine as well.

[alexsquared]

Re: Optiquest Q9 no power

Also, I found the EEU-FM1C222B, which is a 220uF at 16v unit (through Mouser electronics).
Any potential of using this for the 220uF unit?

[retiredcaps]

Re: Optiquest Q9 no power

Being that I already desoldered the 400v unit, should I replace it or just put it back on?

Would it work to go to a 25v from a 16v unit on those 220uF?

The large main filter caps like your 400V rarely, but not never, fails. So it is your call to replace or not.

Going up in voltage is fine.

[alexsquared]

Re: Optiquest Q9 no power

In the future, please post your monitor under a new thread with correct identification of your monitor so we track them properly.

The glue is used during the assembly process so the components don't move as other components are being populated. You can safely remove the glue and leave it off during the recap process.

Understood. The only reason I chose to leave it here is that the power board seemed to be the same model others were referencing.

So, it appears I don't need to put this glue back on to secure the new caps?

[alexsquared]

Re: Optiquest Q9 no power

Unless the large cap (400V unit) is showing signs of leakage, you can generally leave it alone as it runs at a lower frequency (producing less heat) as compared to the smaller caps.

The 220uf FC you chose will work. There's a FM, EEU-FM1E221, rated at 25V that looks to be the same ht and diam.


Select USPS First Class shipping for cheapest ship rate.

Being that I already desoldered the 400v unit, should I replace it or just put it back on?

Would it work to go to a 25v from a 16v unit on those 220uF? Again, caps and their ratings are not my forte.

Thank you for the help!

[retiredcaps]

Re: Optiquest Q9 no power

I have an AMW M19 monitor with the PI-SB01 board.

Also, a couple of the caps (including the large 400v unit) were glued on to the board. Do you guys recommend glueing it down again?

In the future, please post your monitor under a new thread with correct identification of your monitor so we track them properly.

The glue is used during the assembly process so the components don't move as other components are being populated. You can safely remove the glue and leave it off during the recap process.

[jetadm123]

Re: Optiquest Q9 no power

Hi everyone. Been gleaning here for the last few days and now I'm getting ready to order. I have an AMW M19 monitor with the PI-SB01 board. I found 2 of the 16V 1000uF caps to be bulging, so I plan to replace all four of those, plus the 16v 220UF cap, the 400v 100uF cap, and the 50v 10uF cap. I was looking at digikey and wanted to verify that I"m getting the right units.

The panasonic FM that appears to match the (four) 16v 1000uF units is the EEU-FM1C102 (digi-key part P12366-ND).

The 16V 220uF unit didn't have any matches in the FM series. Does anyone have a part # they would recommend? Maybe the EEU-FC1C221 (digikey part # P11199-ND) whic is the FC series.

I didn't find any matches in the FM or FC series for the 400v 100uF unit. Any suggestions?

Lastly, the 50V 10uF unit had a couple hits in the FC Series. EEU-FC1H100L or EEU-FC1H100 (biggest difference I saw was ripple current: 125mA vs 90Ma, and impedance 1.3Ohm vs 2.5 Ohm).

I don't mind jumping in here and taking this thing apart (I've already desoldered all the units I think I want to replace, but I really want to get the right caps the first time. With a 2.5 year old and 4 month old, expendable time is hard to come by

Also, a couple of the caps (including the large 400v unit) were glued on to the board. Do you guys recommend glueing it down again? If so, what exactly do we use? I'm assuming is has to have a high temp rating, etc.

Unless the large cap (400V unit) is showing signs of leakage, you can generally leave it alone as it runs at a lower frequency (producing less heat) as compared to the smaller caps.

As for the smaller caps, make sure the diameter and height of the new caps are similar to the old ones. Slightly wider or higher is ok, as long as they fit.

The 220uf FC you chose will work. There's a FM, EEU-FM1E221, rated at 25V that looks to be the same ht and diam.

Chose the EEU-FC1H100L for the 10uf.

Select USPS First Class shipping for cheapest ship rate.

[alexsquared]

Re: Optiquest Q9 no power

Hi everyone. Been gleaning here for the last few days and now I'm getting ready to order. I have an AMW M19 monitor with the PI-SB01 board. I found 2 of the 16V 1000uF caps to be bulging, so I plan to replace all four of those, plus the 16v 220UF cap, the 400v 100uF cap, and the 50v 10uF cap. I was looking at digikey and wanted to verify that I"m getting the right units.

The panasonic FM that appears to match the (four) 16v 1000uF units is the EEU-FM1C102 (digi-key part P12366-ND).

The 16V 220uF unit didn't have any matches in the FM series. Does anyone have a part # they would recommend? Maybe the EEU-FC1C221 (digikey part # P11199-ND) whic is the FC series.

I didn't find any matches in the FM or FC series for the 400v 100uF unit. Any suggestions?

Lastly, the 50V 10uF unit had a couple hits in the FC Series. EEU-FC1H100L or EEU-FC1H100 (biggest difference I saw was ripple current: 125mA vs 90Ma, and impedance 1.3Ohm vs 2.5 Ohm).

I don't mind jumping in here and taking this thing apart (I've already desoldered all the units I think I want to replace, but I really want to get the right caps the first time. With a 2.5 year old and 4 month old, expendable time is hard to come by

Also, a couple of the caps (including the large 400v unit) were glued on to the board. Do you guys recommend glueing it down again? If so, what exactly do we use? I'm assuming is has to have a high temp rating, etc.

[retiredcaps]

Re: Optiquest Q9 no power

It was real easy. We did not replace the small one, only the three 470's and the 330uF, which was hidded by what appears to be heat shrink.

Congrats and good job. The little guy might come back and haunt you in a few months? Given how cheap the little caps are (probably 25 cents each), I would have replaced it without a thought.

[Valerie]

Re: Optiquest Q9 no power

Hey everyone,

We finally ordered the caps and got the job done for both Q9s. It was real easy. We did not replace the small one, only the three 470's and the 330uF, which was hidded by what appears to be heat shrink.

We did not replace the tubing. Mostly because the hubby was in a hurry to see if they worked. We will see how it goes.

So a BIG THANK YOU to all of you out there that posted the info and pictures!

Valerie

PS: We used Rubycon caps and orded from The Cap King. total cost = $4.21 (10 X 470 uF and 4 X 330 uF) and that included spares and shipping.

[retiredcaps]

Re: Optiquest Q9 no power

I see no one answered my question on that sleeve. Any suggestions are appreciated. I want to do them all at once.

My guess is to protect it from something? From what I don't know.

Others may know its functionality, but if it were mine monitor and the cap was bloated, I would desolder it and cut open the sleeve to find out the uF and voltage. Maybe keep the sleeve?

[Valerie]

Re: Optiquest Q9 no power

Hi there folks,

Thanks retiredcaps, I will change that small one also. Can't hurt.

I see no one answered my question on that sleeve. Any suggestions are appreciated. I want to do them all at once.

Valerie

[retiredcaps]

Re: Optiquest Q9 no power

I am leaning toward Rubycon or Panasonic.

I used Rubycon MCZ series, but Panasonic FM or FC series will work fine. Both are low ESR choices.

Here are PlainBill's instructions on how to order Panasonic FM caps from Digikey.

https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showpo...33&postcount=2

There is one more question - please see the photos. What is this sleeve and how do I replace it? Does it come that way when purchased?

Not sure. I looked at my own photos of this monitor and it is a cap indeed, but I didn't replace it.

BTW, there is a "little" cap (C320) just right of the big cap. You should replace that too. It is part of the "startup" circuit. The little caps do not have to be bloated in order to be bad. Additionally, these caps are pretty cheap (probably 40 cents or less).