It does seem like the firmware is corrupted. Sometimes I can get a corrupt image of the menu to popup, with no text in it and half off the screen. The monitor usually "locks up" if you try using the menus.
There doesn't seem to be an obvious Flash chip or eeprom on the board. A shame really, it was made in 2006! I guess I'll have to bin it.
PPMZ, my monitor got similar problem like yours, did you got it fixed?
PlainBill, I have a question for you. When is it ever time to replace the 450V capacitor? This is the only capacitor on the whole board I haven't replaced and it is made by CapXion. Is it a good idea or a bad idea to replace this? It probably only costs a couple or few bucks. Oh and by the way the monitor works fine now, this is just a preventative question.
In virtually every monitor I've seen the boards have been marked to indicate the negative lead of all capacitors. If in doubt, an almost foolproof method is to remember that the negative lead will go to ground. There are exceptions, (the caps on the primary side of the SMPS - including the100uF, 450 volt cap are a major one), but for the majority of the cases this is a quick check.
PlainBill, I have a question for you. When is it ever time to replace the 450V capacitor? This is the only capacitor on the whole board I haven't replaced and it is made by CapXion. Is it a good idea or a bad idea to replace this? It probably only costs a couple or few bucks.
Thanks in advance.
Well, my definition of 'Bad Idea' is to try any of the stunts in the 'Jackass' series. Skydiving without a parachute, bungee jumping without a bungee cord, saying 'Yes' when your significant other asks 'Does this make me look fat?', etc.
By those standards it is NEVER a bad idea to replace the large cap. At a rough guess, about 1% of the time the problem is that cap. That's pretty low odds.
What problem are you dealing with? I would emphasize that not all problems are caused by bad caps, they are just the easiest to detect and fix.
Well the first issue was that the monitor would not always turn on. Then when I got it to turn on, it'd display in red. After I replaced all the caps, it would always turn on but would do random things such as display in red or blue or it would display the menus in German.
So now I have that NVRAM chip VCC pin #8 removed from the board and all works fine. Of course, the user settings always get reset but that does not bother me a slight bit.
However I am considering repairing that feature as well just for the hell of it. I mean, this is just a project for me. I've only spent 6 bucks on the monitor And hence why I was also considering spending a couple more bucks on a brand new 450V capacitor to replace the capxion one, just in case it is a good practice for preventative maintenance.
As far as your Jackass analogy goes, I would have to agree but I thought you were going to get into detail that if you touch this capacitor, you can get severely injured or die since it is such a high voltage device And that would have come into play with referencing to that show on MTV :P
There are safer ways to discharge capacitors than by simply shorting them out (I'm amazed how many forums tell users to do this, tsk), but I haven't done this type of experiment since early college in physics class.
Well, my definition of 'Bad Idea' is to try any of the stunts in the 'Jackass' series. Skydiving without a parachute, bungee jumping without a bungee cord, saying 'Yes' when your significant other asks 'Does this make me look fat?', etc.
By those standards it is NEVER a bad idea to replace the large cap. At a rough guess, about 1% of the time the problem is that cap. That's pretty low odds.
What problem are you dealing with? I would emphasize that not all problems are caused by bad caps, they are just the easiest to detect and fix.
PlainBill, I have a question for you. When is it ever time to replace the 450V capacitor? This is the only capacitor on the whole board I haven't replaced and it is made by CapXion. Is it a good idea or a bad idea to replace this? It probably only costs a couple or few bucks. Oh and by the way the monitor works fine now, this is just a preventative question.
Thanks in advance.
Not stressed like the secondary side caps (frequency).It can fail, as any other part, but I've seen it once out of 95 times so far.
There are 10 kind of people in this world: those that understand binary, and those who don't.
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2 x Acer KA240H + 1 Vewsonic VP2130 21 (a cap replacement job )
ok well in that case, I'll skip that one and I'm thinking that my VCC on NVRAM is getting too much power possibly so I have to look up a data sheet on the chip and test it on the board with a fluke and also see what the internal resistance of the IC is and match up a resistor to it I guess. it's all fun stuff when the monitor completely works like this one does still. I turned it on a couple times today and no issues once again. it's great. and I'm glad this forum exists otherwise I wouldn't have been able to repair it.
ok well in that case, I'll skip that one and I'm thinking that my VCC on NVRAM is getting too much power possibly so I have to look up a data sheet on the chip and test it on the board with a fluke and also see what the internal resistance of the IC is and match up a resistor to it I guess. it's all fun stuff when the monitor completely works like this one does still. I turned it on a couple times today and no issues once again. it's great. and I'm glad this forum exists otherwise I wouldn't have been able to repair it.
I think your idea that something was stressed because the bad caps resulted in noise on the power lines is very likely to be correct.
As far at the 450 volt cap, under normal circumstances it will hold a significant charge for only a few seconds after the power cord is disconnected. It doesn't hurt to be careful when working with potentially lethal voltages.
PlainBill
For a number of reasons, both health and personal, I will no longer be active on this board. Any PMs asking for assistance will be ignored.
Never be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the ark. Professionals built the Titanic.
Hi guys... I hope it's ok for a newbie to ask a question almost straight after joining. Thanks to this thread I feel confident to go ahead and replace my capacitors too. What I'm not sure about (I am new to this) is whether the replacements I have sourced (UK supplier) are ok. They seem to fit in terms of Capacitance, Voltage and Dimensions, but they do have other properties which I don't know if they are important, such as Ripple Current etc. Here's what I am looking to order. If anyone can confirm whether these should be ok I would be grateful.
They seem to fit in terms of Capacitance, Voltage and Dimensions, but they do have other properties which I don't know if they are important, such as Ripple Current etc.
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Glad I found this thread when I did! I had a Dual-monitor setup with two of these bad boys. Sure they are a few years old but I love these things, they have such small frames that make them work well in pairs.
Anyway, both of them had the blinking problem, and I have been dealing with it for 6+ months now... Imagine potentially discovering a tactic/workaround to get the monitors to display! I used to turn it on early in the AM, then in about an hour or so, if I came and powered it off/on, it would stay on.. so that's what i've been doing.
This past weekend I got REALLY tired of it.. so I went ahead and bought a soldering iron from sears for 9 bucks.. 45 watts. Luckily I work at a computer refresh station, so plenty of capacitors were on deck for me to just take home.. One of my co workers let me watch him re-solder some caps onto a few monitors, and it was smooth sailing after that. Fixed both of mine in 20 minutes! I only replaced the two 25V 820uf caps with two 25v 1000uf caps, and the one 330uf cap with a 470uf cap.
it's great to be able to power my monitors on at will now
OH! I should mention that with the first monitor, I thought I ruined it because after putting it back together... all I got was a white screen like the backlight was just on. Turned out I hadn't plugged in the wider connector that connects to the board.
you can see the pin i took off, pretty small so i used a needle to pry while i held the soldering iron to it, came up pretty ez, i do not believe your settings will be saved if u disable this pin but you will have a working monitor
Quantity Part Number Description
2 565-1553-ND CAP 820UF 25V ELECT KY RAD 0 0.65000 $1.30
1 565-1547-ND CAP 330UF 25V ELECT KY RAD 0 0.41000 $0.41
2 493-1554-ND CAP 680UF 25V ELECT HE RADIAL 0 0.69000 $1.38
1 493-1934-ND CAP 47UF 63V ELECT PW RADIAL 0 0.43000 $0.43
I just wanted someone to double check that I did not mess them up when looking for the replacements.
Nichicon and United Chemicon make good caps, but the ones/series you have selected may not meet or exceed the original Capxon caps in terms of ESR or ripple.
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This thread was just what I needed. I checked my Syncmaster 225BW and sure enough it was the (3) Caps as described. Parts $650, Soldering iron $7.49, Solder $2.50, and about 30 min of my time and it is working perfectly. All fixed for under $20... Sure as hell beats another $200.00 for a new monitor. This site rocks!!!!!!!!
This thread was just what I needed. I checked my Syncmaster 225BW and sure enough it was the (3) Caps as described. Parts $650, Soldering iron $7.49, Solder $2.50, and about 30 min of my time and it is working perfectly. All fixed for under $20... Sure as hell beats another $200.00 for a new monitor. This site rocks!!!!!!!!
Nice feeling, uh ...?
There are 10 kind of people in this world: those that understand binary, and those who don't.
ASUS ROG Maximus IX Code
Intel Core i5-7600K 3.8GHz
16gb GSKILL TridentZ RGB DDR4-3200
1 M2 SSD + 2 WD Blue 1TB (Mirrored)
Windows 10 Pro x64
GeForce GT1050
2 x Acer KA240H + 1 Vewsonic VP2130 21 (a cap replacement job )
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