Syncmaster 740N

Collapse
X
Collapse
+ More Options
Posts
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
  • n1kstr3r
    New Member
    • Dec 2015
    • 6
    • India

    #1

    Syncmaster 740N

    Instead of bumping old thread, I thought of creating a new one as per experience from other forums where I was told I must not bump old threads but create a new one for my question.

    I have a Samsung Syncmaster 740n for repair today. There were 3 bad caps 820uf 25v. Capacitors with that value are not available here in the local market. Can I use 1000uf 25v instead?
    Also as per what I read in a thread about this problem, I found the green fuse also dead. Do I have to check anything further, or shall I just replace the fuse and it should be ok?
    Can I use a thin copper wire on the rear side of the board for the fuse or do I have hunt for the similar one which was there earlier?

    Thanks
    Last edited by n1kstr3r; 12-29-2015, 08:45 AM. Reason: forgot to add
  • EGuevarae
    Badcaps Legend
    • Nov 2008
    • 1336
    • USA

    #2
    Re: Syncmaster 740N

    Posting on an already existing thread is OK, as it will serve as reference for other people looking to solve similar problems on the same unit - in fact, your question may have already been answered.

    That being said, I would advise you against replacing the fuse with a copper wire - the fuse is there for a reason, and it also blew for a reason. If you bypass it and something else is bad, instead of blowing the fuse again, you will damage something else on the board. Not good.

    As for your issue of caps not being available in your local market, this is the case with pretty much every one - you will have to get replacement caps with the same (or better) specs than the ones you intend on replacing. That will take care of the issue of replacing an 820uf with a 1000uf cap - something I would personally not do.

    re-read the 740 post and you will most likely find the specs of the caps you need, and most likely you will also find you should replace all the caps and not only the bulged ones, now that the unit has been taken apart.

    E
    There are 10 kind of people in this world: those that understand binary, and those who don't.
    • ASUS ROG Maximus IX Code
    • Intel Core i5-7600K 3.8GHz
    • 16gb GSKILL TridentZ RGB DDR4-3200
    • 1 M2 SSD + 2 WD Blue 1TB (Mirrored)
    • Windows 10 Pro x64
    • GeForce GT1050
      2 x Acer KA240H + 1 Vewsonic VP2130 21 (a cap replacement job )

    Comment

    • n1kstr3r
      New Member
      • Dec 2015
      • 6
      • India

      #3
      Re: Syncmaster 740N

      Hey thanks for replying.
      sorry for such a late reply. I managed to get the same capacitors from a friend who had a same model with a dead screen. And replaced the fuse with a similar one. Its working fine now.

      Comment

      Related Topics

      Collapse

      • vincentedel
        Samsung SyncMaster 740n Phase Control Issue
        by vincentedel
        Hello,
        I'm having an issue with the Samsung 740n's phase control setting. When I use the automatic adjustment, it sets the value to around 54 (with a range of 0-100), and the picture looks clear and sharp. However, after some time—like after playing a game—the text starts to look blurry. When I auto-adjust again, it may increase the value to 80, and everything becomes sharp once more. Yet, after a while, whether it's a few hours or a day later, the same blurriness returns, and I have to adjust it again.

        I'm using the Samsung 740n monitor drivers instead of the default plug-and-play...
        04-22-2025, 12:33 AM
      • corrize
        A funny fuse story – Lumix LX100 II
        by corrize
        Hello, I disassembled this dead camera, and found this WTF… Two fuses soldered one above the other !
        I was pretty sure nobody touched it before, but that can't be from factory. There is flux, and capacitor is probably missing.
        The other weird thing : the fuses are « G » fuse : (0.75A – 8V), seems very low. The original fuse should be « O » : (32V 2,5A).
        There is « O » mark beside. All fuses have the same mark letter on main board. So, I can deduce it's a « O » fuse.
        And this correspond to the issus I saw : when I plug the battery, I measure the voltage dropping...
        10-19-2023, 09:58 AM
      • sinip
        Samsung Syncmaster T220 blown green fuse F301
        by sinip
        I replaced some capacitors in this one a long time ago, and it was working OK until it again developed a "slow start" in cold weather, especially. Once it started, all would be well.

        So, while it was trying to start, I've heard something getting fried inside, and after opening it, I found 4A green fuse F301 blown. Now, I'm measuring short across the C301 capacitor (1000uF/35V, it is good itself, of course).
        MOSFETs in the inverter are STM8139 (U302 and U303) and have no visual sign of being burnt. I don't see anything else burnt, either.

        Now, I downloaded...
        05-21-2023, 02:30 PM
      • jesterace
        Samsung UE46ES8000 Blown fuse but no other signs of short
        by jesterace
        Hi I wonder if anyone might be able to steer me in the right direction. I have this Samsung UE46ES8000 TV and it went bang during use. The main fuse on the PSU board is open. I've checked every diode/mosfet/transistor I can see and nothing appears to be short to cause the fuse to go. The DC output of the bridge rectifier is not short either. I've seen online that some of these models are known for having their PFC mosfet or other mosfets shorting and blowing the fuse but i'm not seeing that here. If anyone aware of these models having any issues to cause this? I'm reluctant to just replace the...
        09-11-2024, 03:14 PM
      • jshhh
        Help replacing fuse on my Mimaki CJV300-160 vinyl printer
        by jshhh
        Hi guys,

        I'm inexperienced with electronics repairs, I've done a little bit of soldering caps and whatnot, but i have a blown fuse on this mimaki printer I got which I have bought a replacement for.

        How do I remove this type of fuse (see picture)...it kinda looks like it would pull out of that bracket but it didn't come at first pull and I didn't want to brute force it incase it's soldered on there like most of the rest of the components.

        Anybody know how to remove this type of fuse?

        (The fuse is toward the bottom of the image labeled F2)...
        06-17-2025, 01:35 AM
      • Loading...
      • No more items.
      Working...