In addition to stj's good advice I think you should replace the anode wire w/suction cup. If the cup has degraded to that point then the insulation of the anode wire has probably degraded as well.
Touching the anode lead with power off and it disconnected from the CRT is not the danger, touching the anode connection on the CRT itself potentially is. Some TVs do discharge the anode when power is off, however the CRT can build a charge back up after the anode lead is disconnected for a time.
Like stj says if you want to manually discharge the CRT you're "supposed" to use either an HV probe or a few meg-ohms of resistance and insulate the leads of it enough to prevent an arc across the resistor body.
Last edited by SteveNielsen; 07-07-2014, 08:44 AM.
I know these cups, just that mostly they have been sucked to the glass quite tightly and once when it has not, the image broke so that's why I expect it has to be attached firmly.
It seems OK, why replacing it? And if so, how? It is usually quite pushed inside the transformer…
Less jewellery, more gold into electrotech industry! Half of the computer problems is caused by bad contacts
I'm all for repairing stuff (as this is a repairs forum, duh) but I would also second the idea of just replacing the crt with a good lcd display.
IPS and even VA panels have quite good colors and wide view angles (colors don't shift when looking at a sharp angle as much as TN panels) and are not so hard on the eyes as crt monitors are due to not having refresh rates as CRTs do.
Last... you're saving money directly and indirectly.. instead of 100-120w a Trinitron uses you'll have a 15-30w led monitor and you'll have much more room on your desk. Even if you have the monitor running only 8h a day, you're basically saving about 20kWh a month or about 4-5$ a month... you're paying for the monitor itself in about 3 years.
a good crt properly setup is very hard to beat.
mos people have simply forgotten because they have been using lcd for so long.
i really miss the 24-28inch philips widescreen tv's with crt's
getting back to the monitor,
you only need to replace an anode cap if the rubber is rotting.
and the wire usually cant be removed from the transformer.
a stuck cap can be lifted slightly using a plastic ruler - my fav tool for the job.
sometimes they are stuck because they had silicone-grease or anti-corona spray put under them to create a better seal.
The rubber is OK here. I will probably not have time for this operation this week but will continue for sure and probably create separate thread for that.
Here I will try the Phillips Briliance 202P4 first as it is even better and I think this one will be easirer - horizontal problem so probably some transistor or inductor…the image shrunk from sides to middle and it was going bad for some time so maybe the inductor, transistor probably blasts immediatelly.
Less jewellery, more gold into electrotech industry! Half of the computer problems is caused by bad contacts
"And I can remove the sucking cap? Cause I got one 17'' trinitron which has this cap bad, it looses the underpressure every time and falls off. "
That's just some story with old 17'' trinitron. Here we are talking about Philips 202P4 and Dell P1130, both 22'' 1920x1440@85 Hz capable displays, both are now bad but have good suction caps.
Less jewellery, more gold into electrotech industry! Half of the computer problems is caused by bad contacts
we are trying to help you with this, but all you do is say that you will get back to this project at X. it sounds like you want us to say its cactus to me.....
Things I've fixed: anything from semis to crappy Chinese $2 radios, and now an IoT Dildo....
"Dude, this is Wyoming, i hopped on and sent 'er. No fucking around." -- Me
Excuse me while i do something dangerous
You must have a sad, sad boring life if you hate on people harmlessly enjoying life with an animal costume.
Sometimes you need to break shit to fix it.... Thats why my lawnmower doesn't have a deadman switch or engine brake anymore
Man gimme a break. I am trying to at least learn something in the meantime. Have to do review of 50 PSUs I have just imported and need to sell, test several tens of HDDs, DVD drives, finish that plasma TV, repair my parent's computer, all by friday, check a car if it's worth buying and that's just beginning. I constantly have work for at least 3 months up ahead. I already barely sleep, you have problem with that? You are welcome to fly here and help.
Less jewellery, more gold into electrotech industry! Half of the computer problems is caused by bad contacts
Man gimme a break. I am trying to at least learn something in the meantime. Have to do review of 50 PSUs I have just imported and need to sell, test several tens of HDDs, DVD drives, finish that plasma TV, repair my parent's computer, all by friday, check a car if it's worth buying and that's just beginning. I constantly have work for at least 3 months up ahead. I already barely sleep, you have problem with that? You are welcome to fly here and help.
well forgive me, but my scepticism is not without warrant seeming how you did say the same thing back in 2K13.
As I said, I don't have time right now - doing some reviews and stuff and than I have to run home and visit my dentist So this was more like information post for now. Images and other stuff will be as soon as posible
See, I got the spare P1130…now this is dead as well and I am stuck with Samsung SyncMaster 1200NF which gets out of sync at 120 kHz so it's more like BullshitSync so I have some extra motivation
Less jewellery, more gold into electrotech industry! Half of the computer problems is caused by bad contacts
Well, I need something cheap for start, it will save me and hour (at least) every day over social transportation (public transport) but will take some time till it pays itself. And 90 % of utilization will be in city. So an el-cheapo old Twingo with 4c 1,3l atmosferic engine seems quite good for it…
Less jewellery, more gold into electrotech industry! Half of the computer problems is caused by bad contacts
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