Hi, all. It's been over a decade or so since I posted here. In that time, I'm sure certain folks have passed away or otherwise disappeared.
I remember this being a business, where the person running the board did repair work for hire, whilst helping DIYers at the same time.
Is there still a patriarch here who would be willing to replace my caps for hire if I send my board in?
I acquired another Hanns-G HG281D which eventually fell victim to some bad cap issues. I would love to replace the caps myself, but I've since developed Parkinsons tremors, and can no longer do board work as a result.
Thanks!
Hanns-G HG281D 28" TFT - Multiple Problems
Collapse
X
-
Re: Hanns-G HG281D 28" TFT - Multiple Problems
I should also note: I can "adjust" the backlight via the menu. As in, the brightness bar itself will go up and down at command but it doesn't affect the backlight itself.
I can post pictures if need be, but I haven't touched any of the backlight stuff itself. I've also left the monitor on for 20-30 minutes with no change.Leave a comment:
-
Re: Hanns-G HG281D 28" TFT - Multiple Problems
Hey all, new to the forums and it seems like we have some pretty great knowledgeable users. I have a HG281D Rev 2 (MFG date: 2009) that I've replaced the caps on.
Prior to the replacement the monitor would turn on briefly and then I'd lose picture. It would stay "on" but there was no picture. After waiting for roughly 25 minutes with it on, the picture would return. I was able to play games, surf the web, and use as normal. Wanting this to be permanent... I replaced the PSU caps with the kit from LCDAlternatives. This didn't fix the issue. So I went ahead (Being stubborn) and replaced the caps on the logic board. The monitor came on! It works great now aside from one glaring issue... It is stuck at minimum brightness.
The monitor will come on, and it allows me to adjust brightness but nothing actually happens. Very odd. I know the backlight works as it comes on 100% for 1/4 second before going dim. I can adjust the contrast, picture hue, and everything else BUT backlight. Is there a specific cap that controls this? The backlight was working prior to replacing the caps on the logic board.
Any pointers would be awesome. Thanks all!Leave a comment:
-
Re: Hanns-G HG281D 28" TFT - Multiple Problems
Great and thanks for the follow-up.Leave a comment:
-
Re: Hanns-G HG281D 28" TFT - Multiple Problems
Have great news!!!.
Monitor works like brand new now! Was much easier than on the computer board, Every problem is now fixed the interference lines and the white dots, And also the monitor brightness controls, Now i can finally turn the brightness down now lol
At first i thought it was something else causing that problem like the button board. But nope was those 2 caps that budm said!
Thank you very much for the help budm!!! If it wasn't for you i wouldn't even know if the caps was even bad or those 2 was the problem ones lol
I posted some pics and of my soldering, Not the best but i don't think its bad well i hope not lol.Last edited by gordesky1; 10-04-2014, 12:16 AM.Leave a comment:
-
Re: Hanns-G HG281D 28" TFT - Multiple Problems
It looks OK from the pictures. The MB is more than 10 layers board, so it will be a little easier for the main board of the monitor which may be 4 layers at most. Using extra flux also a big helps.Leave a comment:
-
Re: Hanns-G HG281D 28" TFT - Multiple Problems
Did i do any damage to the board in the pics? i didn't bother cleaning any flux off sense the board pretty much wont get reused. Just want to make sure before i do the real deal hehe.
Yea im going to try and get a better soldering iron, Tho for some reason this 30watt one is pretty good if i leave it sit for 20mins, As soon as i touch the solder it melts. when i did what you told me pretty much the caps pretty much came right out as soon as i touch the solder.Leave a comment:
-
Re: Hanns-G HG281D 28" TFT - Multiple Problems
BTW, to clear the solder holes, you can use a small sewing needle attach to a wood stick, push the needle one one side of the board while heating the opposite side with the soldering iron, to make the job easier without damaging the board is to use 50~60W iron with 3mm wide tip.Leave a comment:
-
Re: Hanns-G HG281D 28" TFT - Multiple Problems
just tried that now while putting very little pulling with needle noses and got 2 of the caps off that i needThanks
Also i posted a couple cause i wanted to make sure if i did it right with out damaging the board before i start on the monitor board, Don't want to damage that.
Pretty much this is the first i did this on a board lolLast edited by gordesky1; 10-03-2014, 08:28 PM.Leave a comment:
-
Re: Hanns-G HG281D 28" TFT - Multiple Problems
Adding solder to legs of the parts will make it easier to remove while moving the soldering tip back and forth between the two legs.Leave a comment:
-
Re: Hanns-G HG281D 28" TFT - Multiple Problems
coolAs soon as i can get a solder sucker pump cause with out one its a pain in the ass lol
Was practicing on the dead board getting the bad swollen caps off i got them off but was a bit of a pain, Than trying to get the smaller caps that i need off it is pretty much impossible for me with out a pump.
The wick works but ony to a point.
Having a 30watt iron doesn't help either:/ It melts the solder tho.
Will give a update on it when i do itHopefully in a day or 2.
thanks.Leave a comment:
-
Re: Hanns-G HG281D 28" TFT - Multiple Problems
Same or higher Voltage will be fine, the one that is connected to the output of the regulator can be 10V.Leave a comment:
-
Re: Hanns-G HG281D 28" TFT - Multiple Problems
I have a old foxcon motherboard that's bad, And the caps on it are rubycons which i did a search and saw they are decent?
Im wondering if i can use them off that to replace those 2 with?
Tho it needs to be the same voltage right 16v? So far i do see 1 16v on the board, Mostly all the others are 10v...
Edit there's couple 16vs rubycon a0640 Will those work?Last edited by gordesky1; 10-03-2014, 01:09 AM.Leave a comment:
-
Re: Hanns-G HG281D 28" TFT - Multiple Problems
The two caps on the main board should be replaced, see my picture of the board in post 151 above. Bad cap can look normal.Leave a comment:
-
Re: Hanns-G HG281D 28" TFT - Multiple Problems
I posted about my 281 before in another thread, But i had really bad problems, Like the display will go off and come back on and also had these 3 other problems which i still do.
3 days ago i needed a monitor cause i had to put the tv i was using as a monitor in my bedroom again, So i decided to try this beast again, So far it never goes off now and looks perfect.
But i still have the vertical lines of shimmering pixels that would rapidly "sparkle" as the thread starter said in his post. Than i have another problem that i cant adjust the brightness from 100 unless i keep messing with it and i can get it to go down. Currently at 70.
And sometimes will have wavy lines like interference. When i first turn it on from cold you can see it pretty good, But when its on for hours its hard to see but its there.
I had this monitor apart months ago and i couldn't find a problem that i can see, But it still can be a bad cap even tho its not bulged.
i wonder what cap or part that will cause these 2 issues?
Pretty much the screen is flawless other than those 3 issues.
Would like to get it perfect sense these screens are wonderful. I have a 27inch screpture 1080p which i replace this monitor with back than because of these issues and mainly when it was going on and off. And lets say that monitor cant even compare to this monitor!Leave a comment:
-
Re: Hanns-G HG281D 28" TFT - Multiple Problems
Try replacing the two caps on the logic board, use low esr caps.
http://s807.photobucket.com/user/bud...?sort=3&page=1
Ok. That's the power board. Since you have lights, picture, and on screen video. That part is working. The flickering is caused by the main/logic board. I'll attach a picture from budm where he shows which 2 caps to replace. This is through hole soldering. A bit more difficult. But feel free to ask questions on it. Just replace those 2 caps and you should be good to goLeave a comment:
-
-
Re: Hanns-G HG281D 28" TFT - Multiple Problems
100uF 16VDC is what you have , right?
FR: http://www.digikey.com/product-detai...391-ND/2433525
FC: http://www.digikey.com/product-detai...1198-ND/356102Leave a comment:
-
Re: Hanns-G HG281D 28" TFT - Multiple Problems
As budm says - Panasonic FM/FC/FR series will be fine. you need to read the V and UF
off the existing caps and look them up - you need to get ones that will physically fit
so same height and diameter if possibleLeave a comment:
-
Re: Hanns-G HG281D 28" TFT - Multiple Problems
http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en/capacitors
I've never done this before. Any specific ones I should look at?Leave a comment:
Related Topics
Collapse
-
This is my first attempt at troubleshooting a board like this, I know I could just buy a new board but I'm curious to figure out how this works. I've been testing different components in the evenings this week and I think the problem is with the IC failing to start up for some reason. When the board is plugged in there is no standby voltage.
Then today it randomly sprung to life like a zombie but shortly died thereafter. I have no idea why it would have done that and its the first time I've seen it running. I discharged capacitors on the board last night, then it was sitting today.... -
by fharris1977Hi. I got a Vizio with no power or standby, and won't turn on with remote or button. I checked the voltages on the connector and all read 0.00V or nearly 0(0.050 ON/OFF pin). None of the pins are labeled STB for standby although I do see some 5V pins. Other than the obvious standby led, which isn't coming on, is there a way to check for standby voltage on this PS. I'm trying to see if my problem is the PS or mainboard. Some Vizios I have fixed with no standby led me to think it was the PS but it turned out being the mainboard. Any experience with this set would be greatly appreciated.1 Photo
-
by CrystaleyesHi all.
I started a thread while back regarding TV power supply standby circuitry as it is something I am not quite on top of.
SMPS theory and function is becoming more familiar, however the standby part is still a bit of a mystery.
Anyway, a friend has this TV with the above mentioned power supply board which has no standby voltage, nor any other voltages leaving the board.
The mains AC comes in fine, gets filtered and rectified with power is on the main filter cap as well as the transformer and drain pins of the ICE3B0665J, but that's it.
... -
by fuxxyUN55D6000 I've posted about before.
Initially had bad backlights, of which both entire strips were replaced.
Then TV started not staying off. Every poweroff command was recognized, TV would power off then power right back on, even with nothing attached.
Now, no output at all. No red Power LED, No response to remote. No clicking or coil whine.
From other threads, tested various outputs on the PSU. Noticed that when the mainboard was unplugged, the backlights would turn on.
Backlight Connector CNL802:
Logic board unplugged:
pin... -
by psssstHello forum. I've recently been given a Yamaha TSX 120 DAB radio and ipod dock. Its working well however when put on standby its using 6.3 watts. The manual states less than 1 watt on standby. I measured this with a plug in monitor which seems accurate with other items. In use it uses around 7.5 watts. Firstly has anyone who owns a similar radio also got a plug in monitor to check if this is normal with this unit? In the first half a second the monitor shows 0.3 watts which I suspect is what it should use but something is switching it to be almost fully powered. I've searched the manual for eco...
-
Channel: Troubleshooting Audio Equipment
03-01-2024, 07:25 AM -
- Loading...
- No more items.
Leave a comment: