This was rescued from a recycle gaylord from a hospital along with some other things....
I don't have to explain the significance of restoring this; 16:10 Aspect Ratio, 1920x1200; very high end Samsung LTM240CT04 panel. Add in it's blonde (will pair nice with a retro rig) and also ELO touchscreen. It is very well made, very heavy. Even used these are hard to find and expensive....but it had some problems...
Problem one, the external PSU was missing. I found one in my stash that had the correct voltage (12V) with the goofy 4-pin plug it used. It however was light on the amperage. The unit calls for 6.8A, the one I found was 4.16A. It did power it....so it's fine for testing purposes....and we'll get back to this later.
Problem two, CCFL tubes bad. Upon powerup, I could hear the very faint hiss and then it'd go into protection. I could actually smell the ozone generated from the internal arcing. I bought a complete set of tubes for it.
Problem three, the polarizer sheet was badly yellowed. All of the light diffusers were fine, but the polarizer sheet was brittle and yellow....
Ok, here we go!
You can see the yellowing on the diffuser sheet, in the pic more on the left side. I have an idea to cure this....
...but first lets replace the CCFL's....if that's a failure, it's moot....I'll just toss it, I won't buy another set for it if I break the new ones. In pieces.
Yea, that thing....but we'll return to that shortly...
New CCFL tubes.
Install was a breeze.
Now for the junk diffuser sheet..... The cure is in the form of a Dell U3011 that had a cracked panel. I removed the broken panel and was otherwise very careful not to touch the polarizer sheet. If you crud them up, they are very difficult to clean without damaging their polarizing properties (you can't use cleaners on them).
Carefully laid the old one over the donor. You can really see the discoloration on this pic. If that old sheet was used, the image quality would be horrible.... Yellowed out whites and colors would be off.
Taped in place.
Employing a fresh razor blade and a straight edge, very carefully cut out the replacement sheet from the donor using the original as the pattern...again being very careful not to touch the good portion of the sheet. This took over an hour.
I didn't have to trim a thing!! Fit like a glove!!
What's left of the U3011 and the old sheet.
Going back together.
I must admit, I did test fire it before buttoning it up. It worked.
...and here we are! Perfection! Nice white raster! It's not dark/discolored on the left side, it's the viewing angle with the camera.....I didn't want my ugly mug in the reflection.
Now for the power supply issue..... This supply would power it, but it was definitely overloaded. It got miserably hot. I looked online for an OEM replacement, none to be had. Found some chinese knockoffs.....but I'll pass on those.
Removed the wire with the goofy 4-pin plug on it....
Enter in a Powerman 120W ITX Proprietary that came from a scrap bin. +12V rail is rated for 8A, more than plenty. Perhaps this should be in the ghetto mod thread...
Not bad build quality. Secondary caps are Samxon GK series, not my favorites in the world, but GF was the problematic series, so I just rolled with these. I did check the outputs on the scope, they were clean.
Someone had cut all the wires off.
I removed them the rest of the way; desoldered from the PCB and tossed.
Soldered the PSU_ON (green wire) to the nearest ground on the inside and then wired the monitor wire to +12 and GND.
Fabricated a bung to keep everything in place.
...and shazam!!! Success!
I'll dig out a 40MM fan grille for the fan, but otherwise this is a perfect replacement for the missing PSU. Yes, I'll get the sticker goo off it....that was actually a Win7 COA.
Was this worth all the work I put in? Maybe or maybe not.....but it was a fun challenge and good save of a high end display. These displays are for medical equipment.
When I got into the menu, the contrast & brightness were all the way up...no wonder the CCFL's melted down and the polarizer sheet discolored.
I don't have to explain the significance of restoring this; 16:10 Aspect Ratio, 1920x1200; very high end Samsung LTM240CT04 panel. Add in it's blonde (will pair nice with a retro rig) and also ELO touchscreen. It is very well made, very heavy. Even used these are hard to find and expensive....but it had some problems...
Problem one, the external PSU was missing. I found one in my stash that had the correct voltage (12V) with the goofy 4-pin plug it used. It however was light on the amperage. The unit calls for 6.8A, the one I found was 4.16A. It did power it....so it's fine for testing purposes....and we'll get back to this later.
Problem two, CCFL tubes bad. Upon powerup, I could hear the very faint hiss and then it'd go into protection. I could actually smell the ozone generated from the internal arcing. I bought a complete set of tubes for it.
Problem three, the polarizer sheet was badly yellowed. All of the light diffusers were fine, but the polarizer sheet was brittle and yellow....
Ok, here we go!
You can see the yellowing on the diffuser sheet, in the pic more on the left side. I have an idea to cure this....
...but first lets replace the CCFL's....if that's a failure, it's moot....I'll just toss it, I won't buy another set for it if I break the new ones. In pieces.
Yea, that thing....but we'll return to that shortly...
New CCFL tubes.
Install was a breeze.
Now for the junk diffuser sheet..... The cure is in the form of a Dell U3011 that had a cracked panel. I removed the broken panel and was otherwise very careful not to touch the polarizer sheet. If you crud them up, they are very difficult to clean without damaging their polarizing properties (you can't use cleaners on them).
Carefully laid the old one over the donor. You can really see the discoloration on this pic. If that old sheet was used, the image quality would be horrible.... Yellowed out whites and colors would be off.
Taped in place.
Employing a fresh razor blade and a straight edge, very carefully cut out the replacement sheet from the donor using the original as the pattern...again being very careful not to touch the good portion of the sheet. This took over an hour.
I didn't have to trim a thing!! Fit like a glove!!
What's left of the U3011 and the old sheet.
Going back together.
I must admit, I did test fire it before buttoning it up. It worked.
...and here we are! Perfection! Nice white raster! It's not dark/discolored on the left side, it's the viewing angle with the camera.....I didn't want my ugly mug in the reflection.
Now for the power supply issue..... This supply would power it, but it was definitely overloaded. It got miserably hot. I looked online for an OEM replacement, none to be had. Found some chinese knockoffs.....but I'll pass on those.
Removed the wire with the goofy 4-pin plug on it....
Enter in a Powerman 120W ITX Proprietary that came from a scrap bin. +12V rail is rated for 8A, more than plenty. Perhaps this should be in the ghetto mod thread...
Not bad build quality. Secondary caps are Samxon GK series, not my favorites in the world, but GF was the problematic series, so I just rolled with these. I did check the outputs on the scope, they were clean.
Someone had cut all the wires off.
I removed them the rest of the way; desoldered from the PCB and tossed.
Soldered the PSU_ON (green wire) to the nearest ground on the inside and then wired the monitor wire to +12 and GND.
Fabricated a bung to keep everything in place.
...and shazam!!! Success!
I'll dig out a 40MM fan grille for the fan, but otherwise this is a perfect replacement for the missing PSU. Yes, I'll get the sticker goo off it....that was actually a Win7 COA.
Was this worth all the work I put in? Maybe or maybe not.....but it was a fun challenge and good save of a high end display. These displays are for medical equipment.
When I got into the menu, the contrast & brightness were all the way up...no wonder the CCFL's melted down and the polarizer sheet discolored.
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