Thermozyklus ZE5 Heating Controller. Bus error

Collapse
X
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
  • redwire
    Badcaps Legend
    • Dec 2010
    • 3900
    • Canada

    #21
    For the power mosfet, does the drain or source go to power(+)? Maybe to R42 then power. That will confirm if a clown changed the part.
    What part number is T2?
    I think R45 is bus current-sense resistor and likely 0.1Ω and maybe goes to op-amp IC7. Where does the far end of R45 go to? Power (-)?
    Why does IC7 have no markings, no pin 1 dot on the bad board? Same for D2 where is the stripe? What some Aliexpress junk or a dark picture?

    D2 protects against reverse-polarity, unless he connected power to the bus by accident. Customer must not be totally honest about the board's history.
    Last edited by redwire; 03-30-2024, 06:31 PM.

    Comment

    • edugimeno
      Badcaps Veteran
      • May 2017
      • 568
      • Spain

      #22
      Originally posted by redwire
      For the power mosfet, does the drain or source go to power(+)? Maybe to R42 then power. That will confirm if a clown changed the part.
      What part number is T2?
      I think R45 is bus current-sense resistor and likely 0.1Ω and maybe goes to op-amp IC7. Where does the far end of R45 go to? Power (-)?
      Why does IC7 have no markings, no pin 1 dot on the bad board? Same for D2 where is the stripe? What some Aliexpress junk or a dark picture?

      D2 protects against reverse-polarity, unless he connected power to the bus by accident. Customer must not be totally honest about the board's history.
      Thanks for your time!
      My comments:
      Yes power+ goes straight (after a protection Diode in series D1) to the mosfet Source pin
      Large top resistor (R42, 330Ohm)) goes from Drain of mosfet, to SMD Q T3 pin 2 (I believe collector of a PNP Q labeled 2F)
      T2 is also labeled 2F so it should be a PNP transistor
      Yes, the far end of R45 goes straight to a ground plane in the back side thru a via. The right end connects thru the coil directly into the BUS. Also the right side of BUS goes to D2 for reverse protection and also to R52 and T7
      The left bus side goes to mosfet Drain and R42 like above
      Sorry the picture had a bad light angle so IC7 didt show its marking, Im attaching here a better angle and it shows MC34071 which is a single Op Amp, and power and Vss matches the datasheet, output is leg 6 driven to R36

      I don't believe user connected power to BUS as the power he is using is a round barrel connector, that can't fit anything else. Yes, there is an alternate power plug that matches tha same socket as BUS but he doesn't have that option in his power adapters

      Hope this helps!!
      Thanks again!
      Attached Files

      Comment

      • redwire
        Badcaps Legend
        • Dec 2010
        • 3900
        • Canada

        #23
        Your customer is full of it. Reverse-polarity would damage other parts, and the tech in here was sloppy.
        High-side control needs a P-ch mosfet, so I would say somebody was careless and put the wrong part in.
        An N-ch part would always be putting almost full power to the bus because of the body-diode being on and possibly give bus error because it is stuck high. 17N40 is a bit silly 400V rated on an 18V bus 😝

        Try putting in a 17P06 (P-ch 60V) and replacing R45 to 0.100Ω, and see where that takes you.

        Comment

        • edugimeno
          Badcaps Veteran
          • May 2017
          • 568
          • Spain

          #24
          Thanks!! Yes I will try the right mosfet in place first. My only question is... 10 Ohm (as it is now after I replaced it) or 0,1 Ohm as the second board has? Or maybe try both, but I need to travel to the place where it is to be installed for each try...

          Thanks!!

          Comment

          • redwire
            Badcaps Legend
            • Dec 2010
            • 3900
            • Canada

            #25
            If the wrong mosfet was put in, the wrong resistor could also have been put in.
            I think the resistor is current-sense for the bus, and not sure how much power it provides. Let's say 0.5A; if the resistor goes to op-amp then I would guess 0.1Ω to amplify the 50mV. But 10Ω would drop 5V and dissipate 2.5W !

            Comment

            • edugimeno
              Badcaps Veteran
              • May 2017
              • 568
              • Spain

              #26
              I talked to the guy, he's the manager at a large student housing. He said he claimed this to the shop where it was (wrongly) repaired and they sent back a long audio in which they explained that they changed several parts (and attached a picture with the mosfet and 3 small IC's) and saying first they needed to fix the receiving part and then it was ok and then they realized it wouldn't send so they replaced the transistor and then tested it in their bus and found it working correctly... He asked then because he had been charged 300€ for this repair, and when he called back saying it wasn't working, they said they woudl return part of the cost if he was buying a new replacement, which he did, assuming it was the only option at that time...

              Anyway, I don't believe the sense resistor was replaced...I don't see traces of desoldering/resoldering/flux but depending of the quality of that shop, that could have been done with no marks...
              I will probably test it with the new mosfet when it arrives, and then if it doesn't work, try a second time with the other sense resistor

              Thanks!

              Comment

              • edugimeno
                Badcaps Veteran
                • May 2017
                • 568
                • Spain

                #27
                Final update on this. I replaced the mosfet by the correct model, and took it to be tested before I tried with the the resistor. It failed, "shorcut in bus" message right away.
                Took it back home, put a 0,1 ohm resistor in the bus sense R and this tested perfectly now, with no errors and controlling heating correctly.
                So this board had basically fallen into the wrong hands when it was sent to the shop to be repaired in the first instance. Thanks everyone who replied here!

                Comment

                Related Topics

                Collapse

                • valvashon
                  Repair Success! Middle Atlantic UPS2200R-IP
                  by valvashon
                  Yesterday I successfully repaired a Middle Atlantic UPS2200R-IP that had inadvertently been used as a surge suppressor at our transmitter site. It has already been replaced with an updated one but it's coming home with me now instead of being e-cycled. To be specific, this is the MA model that has the blue backlit display and has been discontinued, although this design may have been used in many UPS units including the smaller Middle Atlantic ones in this series.



                  Here's what happened: We experienced a brownout/surge at the site, which damaged the UPS and took our broadcasting...
                  02-06-2024, 12:54 PM
                • master3112
                  ASUS ROG Strix- G513IH-HN008, G513-6050A3249301- MB-A04 (A4) damaged Embedded Controller
                  by master3112
                  I have an ASUS ROG Strix- G513IH-HN008, motherboard G513-6050A3249301- MB-A04 (A4)

                  When I received the device, the device has no function. After an investigation, I found that the PWM CONTROLLER RT6575B (U6100) is getting warm and there is a short circuit at the 3V3 output. This normally supplies 3V3 for the embedded controller IT5571E-128 (U301). When measuring and analyzing with a thermal imaging camera, I found that some components are damaged: SLG4E42553VTR (U8500), IT5571E-128 (U301), LAN RTL8111H (U450), LOGIC 74LVC1G08GW (U1900), RT6575B (U6100) All these components are on...
                  10-29-2024, 09:32 PM
                • HectoPascal
                  Replacement caps ok? (smoothing caps, PSU heating controller)
                  by HectoPascal
                  Hallo,
                  i want to replace two smoothing caps from a heating controller PSU. They are probably 30 years old and it might be time to replace them.

                  SXE 470uF 63V 105°C (tested: 472uF 0.35Ohm) --> Nichicon VY 105°C - 463uF 0.15Ohm
                  SXE 470uF 25V 105°C (tested: 422uF 0.63Ohm) --> Samwha K5A 85°C - 446uF 0.10Ohm (or Panasonic RAD FC 470/25 8mm)

                  I couldn't find anything about 'SXE'. That's the only declaration on the caps. Edit: The top/bottom ident says Nippon CC.
                  Nichicon should be 'VY' series (linked).
                  I couldn't find anything about Samwha...
                  09-06-2023, 08:30 PM
                • ngml
                  Repair of an LG split AC system indoor unit PCB
                  by ngml
                  I am trying to repair an LG split AC indoor unit, which does not start and gives a CH05 error code.
                  This indicates an error in the communication between the outdoor and the indoor unit.
                  The outdoor unit is fine, so the problem is the indoor PCB.
                  The indoor unit is an LG PC09SQ NSJ (3SNM09JA2FA), and the PCB has the following type number: EAX35907219-1.2 (see photo1)
                  I changed optocouplers ICO1X & ICO2X and the NPN transistor S9013 which drives optocoupler ICO2X (see photo2), but this did not remedy the fault.

                  Does anybody have the schematics of this board,...
                  02-01-2025, 12:55 PM
                • sam_sam_sam
                  Tankless hot water heater controller board not powering up when power is applied
                  by sam_sam_sam
                  I recently bought a used tankless hot water heater and the controller board is completely dead no power up when power is applied the display board works however the main controller board does not work correctly at all the fuse is good

                  I bought a used replacement controller board that also had issues that I was able to fix and now the tankless water heater works correctly now

                  However I would like to know if I could figure what happened to this controller board if possible

                  Tomorrow I will take some better pictures of both side of both boards

                  The...
                  12-09-2022, 09:14 PM
                • Loading...
                • No more items.
                Working...