Hi I have destroyed the tracks to both the volt and amp connector is it possible to solve this problem and maybe find another way to connect them. see the pictures and the disaster that I did
Adjustable Buck Converter V/A potentiometer traces destroyed
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Re: Adjustable Buck Converter V/A potentiometer traces destroyed
Can you please tell us how this happened I have several of these this is the reason I am asking you to go into some details about how this happened
Thank you for all the detailed pictures that shows the damage that happened to this board ( the last picture is the best one of them all to see the damage )
The only real option that you have is go to the component pins and to the output pins and hard wire them together but you are going to have to clean all of the solder from the connector pins on the other side of the board this is the first thing that need to be done before you start with this type of repair
This is very time consuming to do but I have done this in the past with very good results so it is doable
But a better option would be to buy a new one and resolve what cause this to happen in the first place and use this one for parts
The reason I mentioned the better option is if the component leads are NOT long enough this is going to be very difficult to do because the only option then is to put wrapping wire on the component leads to extend the component leads so you have something to work with
If this issue happened because of high current then if you buy a new one you are going to have to reinforce the connector pads with wrapping wire to the component pin leads for better connections to carry the current
This is also time consuming as well but it might help you save the board from this type of failureLast edited by sam_sam_sam; 08-19-2022, 02:57 AM. -
Re: Adjustable Buck Converter V/A potentiometer traces destroyed
Can you please tell us how this happened I have several of these this is the reason I am asking you to go into some details about how this happened
Thank you for all the detailed pictures that shows the damage that happened to this board ( the last picture is the best one of them all to see the damage )
The only real option that you have is go to the component pins and to the output pins and hard wire them together but you are going to have to clean all of the solder from the connector pins on the other side of the board this is the first thing that need to be done before you start with this type of repair
This is very time consuming to do but I have done this in the past with very good results so it is doable
But a better option would be to buy a new one and resolve what cause this to happen in the first place and use this one for parts
The reason I mentioned the better option is if the component leads are NOT long enough this is going to be very difficult to do because the only option then is to put wrapping wire on the component leads to extend the component leads so you have something to work with
If this issue happened because of high current then if you buy a new one you are going to have to reinforce the connector pads with wrapping wire to the component pin leads for better connections to carry the current
This is also time consuming as well but it might help you save the board from this type of failureComment
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Re: Adjustable Buck Converter V/A potentiometer traces destroyed
Okay one trick to get the pins free from the board is too add solder to all pins and heat all pins at the same exact time and gently pull on the pot to remove it the same exact thing can be done two pin connectors but you have to be patience for the solder to flow so you can remove the component or have a Desoldering Gun station for best results
I use this method when replacing capacitors on boards when the pins are close together
Try to avoid use the tip of the soldering iron to push the component leads because you either damage the component or the soldering iron or the board
The reason this hard to do is this is a two layer board which requires more heat to melt the solder
If you do not have a temperature controlled soldering iron I would highly recommend that if you are going to remove components from two or more layer boards this would a good investment
And if you are going to a lot of this type of work then would also recommend that you consider a Desoldering Gun station as another investment as wellLast edited by sam_sam_sam; 08-19-2022, 04:32 AM.Comment
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Re: Adjustable Buck Converter V/A potentiometer traces destroyed
Okay one trick to get the pins free from the board is too add solder to all pins and heat all pins at the same exact time and gently pull on the pot to remove it the same exact thing can be done two pin connectors but you have to be patience for the solder to flow so you can remove the component or have a Desoldering Gun station for best results
I use this method when replacing capacitors on boards when the pins are close together
Try to avoid use the tip of the soldering iron to push the component leads because you either damage the component or the soldering iron or the board
The reason this hard to do is this is a two layer board which requires more heat to melt the solder
If you do not have a temperature controlled soldering iron I would highly recommend that if you are going to remove components from two or more layer boards this would a good investment
And if you are going to a lot of this type of work then would also recommend that you consider a Desoldering Gun station as another investment as wellComment
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by sam_sam_samCan anyone recommend a switching regulator or a buck converter that has these specifications
Input voltage 80 adjustable at least 4 amps or better
Any information would greatly appreciated
Thanks -
by Manuel S.Hi,
my Lenovo 720 is dead. :-(
I guess i have found an issue on the 5V buck converter (**BAC7NH** from Silergy (also called SY8288C 5V)) but i am not completely sure so i want to ask here for some hints.
Here is a Schematic of the IC: https://prom.ua/p1498216381-sy8288c-...ac-bacxxx.html
When i attach the supply 19V, i only have 1.8V on the OUT (it should be 5V). The IC is getting hot.
The EN1 is completely off 0V, EN2 show 1.5V.
If i inject 5V on the EN1 the OUT goes up to 2.6V (but never reach 5V).
BS seams SHORT to the OUT.... -
by caspianDear members,
Let us consider the buck-converter circuit of +1.05VS_VCCPP in the PDF. +1.05VS_VCCPP is a 1.05v voltage rail. The schematic says the circuit can provide up to 20A of current. It belongs to a laptop: Lenovo G470. B+ is 19v.
Now assume we connect +1.05VS_VCCPP to many ICs to provide power for them. The laptop works in a way that mostly less than 20A are drawn from +1.05VS_VCCPP but sometimes the required current exceeds 20A. For example, 25A or 30A.
PU702 is the controller IC in the buck-converter circuit. It controls the output voltage according to the feedback... -
by adamski1952Hi.all.
Working on a PS5 EDM-010 motherboard and i've located a short after the TLV62090RGTR 5v to 3.3v chip directly behind F7002.same chip i think. I've removed the chip thinking that was the problem but the short is still there.I injected 1v at 1 amp on output coil (arrowed in picture) but nothing shows up on my thermal camera. No boardview so I because I dont know which rail it feeds i'm reluctant to up the power injection.I could use some help with this if anone has any ideas. ... -
by caspianDear members,
Recently, I watched this nice video:
www.youtube.com/watch?v=XBAn2Ck8GeE
I have experienced such a failure many times in laptops.
He replaced the Mosfets and the controller of a buck-converter in one go. But then after powering the laptop on, the new Mosfets burned again.
What are the popular causes of the repair failure in this video?
note: after removing the coil, he measured that the circuit is not shorted after the coil. only the circuit before the coil was shorted.
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