Battery Hookup new listing “Case 100x 3.3v 2200mah - 200x 18650 Lifepo4” for $100.00 + shipping

[sam_sam_sam]

They both used two lead acid 12v 9Ah/10Ah packs -- 24V system -- so that's the amount of space I need to work with, and not much room for hacking. So ideally small cells are better though they may not be best $/kWh though that is still a concern. And yeah all of these are cyclic versus backup. (note: my mower's Pb-H2SO4 10Ah packs are okay but I suspect these won't last forever...unsure how long they will last.)

Don't know, would be best to get all of the same type and size of cell to be able to standardize and swap between them, and it's okay if I have to solder/use connectors. Yeah it would be nice to get specific ones for each use... but only if both types are good $/(cycle*kWh)

Then there's the other desire to get 12V packs just because I have several power inverters... and the 24V GTI...

The 12 volt 9 amps lead acid battery are the easiest to use Lipo 4 battery cells you just need to know what the maximum voltage for the battery pack if it up 30 then a 8S battery pack would work however if it is only 27 volts is not enough voltage to completely charge the battery pack unfortunately you would need to do some testing to determine how much amp hours you will lose because of not having enough voltage but this might be okay in the long run because you would need to have a special charger for whatever type of battery chemistry you would choose anyway plus a BMS protection board anyway as well

I have an empty 12 volt 9 amp enclosure I will post if the battery packs that I bought 12 in a case fit in it or not because I am thinking about using it as a 24 volt battery pack instead of a 12 volt battery pack which is a normal configuration in the first place

It seems to me the battery cells to consider to build a decent battery pack is going to run you about $70.00 per kilowatt hour yes this is a little high but if you choose the right deal you can make a very good battery pack

As far as the 12 volt battery pack that you are looking for you could go the route of the $27.00 for each 12 volt battery pack I think is $65.00 per kilowatt hour so two battery packs would be almost one kilowatt hour

To me sometimes looking at the cost per kilowatt hour is a good idea if your battery operated device needs this amount of power then yes by all means look at this cost for battery packs for this device

But when you are talking about devices that do not require this amount of kilowatt hour does it really make sense to look at this way I can understand if you have several devices that are the same then yes by all means consider it in this aspect

But like your lawnmower and scooter are really needing a kilowatt battery pack for them and would you be able to move the weight to me this might not be realistic to look at this way now if you are budgeting it for both of them and you want to use the same type of battery cells then yes this should be considered if you wanting to keep the cost down

But from what I am seeing what Battery Hookup offers that are decent you are looking at least $65.00 to $75.00 per kilowatt hour

Now if you want to take a higher risk of loss of some battery cells in your purchase then you can find deals that start at $45.00 per kilowatt hour and more depending on the condition of the battery cells but unfortunately there are no guarantees what you will receive from these when voltage is the only thing that was checked when are shipped out and some are not voltage tested at all they are just shipped

I personally stay away from these deals like mention before because I have to many bad battery cells and do not know what to do with them

[eccerr0r]

oh no, they don't need kilowatt hour storage... ¼kWh is sufficient for the mower and scooter. However would still want more for the inverters.

[eccerr0r]

The other thing I'm concerned about is what the peak current draw of the mower and scooter are... really have no way of testing at this point.
Both were designed with lead acid in mind. The scooter is a cheap crap ⅓HP I think. Mower may be the same, it's a tiny mower (yeah, I notice it takes a bit more time to finish compared to my gas 22" but the carb sucks and spend too much time trying to get it started every time whereas the electric mower starts right away).

The other thing I'm wondering is if have li-ion cells will make the mower feel funny because they're lighter and won't stay consistently on the ground giving an even cut. OTOH I think the scooter being lighter is always a bonus, alas the scooter is ancient old steel and already way too heavy anyway.

[sam_sam_sam]

Depends on the battery operated lawnmower the RYOBI one does a good job cutting your grass but only one thing do not let your grass get to long or really thick or it strain to cut it and will drain the battery very quickly and the battery pack will get to point of being overheating and shorten battery longevity because I have encountered this problem several times in the past and had to replace the battery pack under warranty you could make your own battery pack for but depending on how difficult it is to take apart you would be better off using double battery cells for better performance but use higher current capacity battery cells for this application at least for the Ryobi battery operated lawnmower

I have though about doing this to mine I just have to take a battery pack that the BMS protection board has not taken a shit because this is an issue with these battery packs as well unfortunately but I also have one that is leaded acid version that I have thought about doing this to but can not decide what type of battery cells to use for this application because they used battery size that is used in riding lawnmower but not the same group size I am not sure what the CC battery rating they have because there is no decals on these battery packs they are probably made for the manufacture of the battery operated lawnmower and I do not remember what the brand name is

As far as the scooter is concerned do you have the battery holder enclosure on hand to take some pictures of it because this will determine what type of battery cells you can use and what configuration constraints you have unless you are going to use a different battery holder enclosure then will be a different story

Stop using gasoline that contains ethanol additives this not good for small engines and two cycles engine you need to buy ethanol free gasoline yes it cost more per gallon but less headaches in the long run this is what I use because I got tired of replacing fuel line hoses on two cycles engines I made the switch many years ago when the alternative was available in my area

One other note if the lawnmower has the carburetor mounted on the gas tank and it is a briggs and stratton brand mower that is the older version buy a carburetor repair kit because the die frame gasket goes bad and has stretched when this happens it will not pull gasoline properly if is the type of carburetor that is a bowl type the needle valve rubber is deformed or the float mechanism is hanging up also get a carburetor repair kit for it get a couple of cans carburetor cleaner and give a very good cleaning before you install the new parts in the carburetor or use the carburetor cleaner that they used to sell that some what stunk up the area near the can when you open it I can not remember the exact name of it now but it does a great job cleaning them who knows if you can still buy it anymore with all of the EPA regulations that are in place

But in both cases get the engine number and serial number to get the right repair kit for the carburetor that is used I have repaired so many of them in the past it is not funny anymore

[eccerr0r]

Nah, I like the electric one much more as long as the battery remains intact. The electric mower was a salvage, I picked it up broken and was able to repair it. My gas mower has a tecumseh motor. Don't like the noise, don't like spending money and time getting gas for it, don't like changing the oil in it.. mower's around 24 years old now granted the last few years it's been idle and the electric's taken over and have to use my surplus solar electricity anyhow. Also picked up a battery string trimmer from the thrift shop, same frustrations with the gas string trimmer but even more so, noise is worse. Electric one works sufficiently well too. Not sure what i'm going to do with the gas string trimmer, likewise it needs a new carb and maybe more, it's got a crap engine in it...grr.

[eccerr0r]

oof. then the next issue is that I probably need to disconnect the battery to do modifications on the BMS...
And whether I could just use the protection/balance wires to parallel cells where I'd assume the majority of the current is going through the main terminals...

[sam_sam_sam]

oof. then the next issue is that I probably need to disconnect the battery to do modifications on the BMS...
And whether I could just use the protection/balance wires to parallel cells where I'd assume the majority of the current is going through the main terminals...

If you have the connector to the BMS board this would be easy to do but if they are soldered to the board then remove it from the battery end itself you do not necessarily have to reconfigure the BMS leads unless you have wire runs that very long then would run BMS wires to each battery pack separately because the furtherest battery pack will probably suffer a slight voltage drop if the current is more 500 milliamperes on these wires it might not matter if the balancing function is less than 250 milliamperes on it

If you want the best results would be to put the battery rail cells to physically together yes it is more work but it is better in the long run because if you are also putting heavier wires for the current draw the same from each battery pack is also important for the BMS balancing function to work properly with each battery pack to me this is too many wires that are involved and it more likely for mistakes to happen while wiring them together

But it might make more sense if each battery pack already has BMS balancing protection boards because most of them can be paralleled together you just have to test each output to make sure can be done properly this way

The issue becomes when you want to put them in series because a lot of have a voltage limit because of the mosfets have voltage limits on them and some of just can not be done this way for what ever reason it might be the configuration it has dose not allow this configuration

[sam_sam_sam]

I checked the voltage on 4 of these battery packs and the voltage was around 25.something volts which I need to load test but can not charge them on the battery tester that I normally use because it voltage limit is 24 volts even not higher than that it can measure voltage up to 30 volts but I going have use my other battery testing machine that goes to 72 volts but it does not have a charging controller in it but does show the voltage and current while int charging mode because it has a charging port input for this purpose and yes it is from the same manufacturer I just do not use it very often because the lower limit is 10 volts for load testing purposes and the highest voltage battery packs have been 20 volts which it is the limit that I use on battery testing machine that I use the most for regular and BMS balancing protection boards

But I still have to put the voltage sensing wire on the battery cells and not on the BMS output for the battery testing machine to function properly so this my next step before I can test them correctly

https://batteryhookup.com/collection...y-with-bms-24v

[eccerr0r]

hmm... load test would be interesting... but yeah that pack looks a little flat if it's low 25's...
I should be able to hack my 24V PSU to 28+V fairly readily so no difficulty to charge.

[sam_sam_sam]

hmm... load test would be interesting... but yeah that pack looks a little flat if it's low 25's...
I should be able to hack my 24V PSU to 28+V fairly readily so no difficulty to charge.

They are always like this very low on charge because they can not be shipped if fully charged

One in a great while you might get some battery packs that are nearly fully charged but this is very rare to see this from Battery Hookup

[eccerr0r]

Damn. That means buying 1kWh of cells would cost another ??? cents to recharge!
But seriously, thought that batteries should be charged to about 50% during storage, getting close to the 10% is kind of dangerous?

[sam_sam_sam]

Damn. That means buying 1kWh of cells would cost another ??? cents to recharge!
But seriously, thought that batteries should be charged to about 50% during storage, getting close to the 10% is kind of dangerous?

How do you figure that when that when the pack voltage is 25.39 divided 8 battery = 3.something for each battery cell granted that the voltage starts rolling of at about this voltage I have stored these battery cells at round this voltage and had in storage for several years now and when I retest them they are nearly testing like new also granted that these battery cells are a well known brand and made in Japan

When you have Chinese made battery cells this is not always the case if you do get them to the 10% charge level then yes you may end up with a lot of dead battery cells in a very short time period of time

Now the issue you will have with brand name battery cells is if they are nearly testing like the end of life and you keep them in this state of charge yes you will hasten there demise fairly quickly but the way I look at this is if this is the case then I have saved my self the time that was required for putting a battery pack together that would not have lasted for very long any way

When I see a battery pack that the individual battery cells at a 3.something value and I recharge and discharge and they test nearly new what this tell me that these battery cells are in decent condition and that they had been in decent use and storage

Now on rare occasions I have gotten some that were nearly close to there lowest discharge value like 2.5 volt this has me concerned about this situation because are these battery cells near the end of life or are they self discharging sin drum which is when I use the SkyRc battery charger on them with the temperature sensor attached to the battery cell and charge at a 500 milliamperes for a while and watch the charging curve to how fast steep the curve is which can tell you if this the case or not if the battery temperature gets very close to 100*F this is a warning sign that these have an issue with the heating sin drum and should not be used

And if they are nearly at this voltage and is less than two volt I am even more concern about this issue because this voltage could be a warning sign that these battery cells might have some serious issues and charge with extreme care because you have no idea what issues have caused these battery cells get to this dangerous low voltage situation and probably ask for a refund on these battery cells if I receive them in this condition and they test lower than 75 percent of there what a new should be anything less than this issue because not worth my time spending on maybe having battery cells that might be useable but the bigger question is how long would they last because you have to let sit for 30 days or more and see how much voltage they have lost-ed in this amount of time

On very rare occasions I have had some battery cells that were at a voltage that was at 3.50 and or above this and tested poorly not sure exactly what this issue is because when I received them they were at good voltage but test very poorly now granted these were pouch battery cells so who knows what caused this issue with them but they ended up swelling in size this is one reason I am not very eager to buy them and use them in a projects

[eccerr0r]

Ah... in #88, 25.something could be 25.1 and it would be around 3.14vpc. But this would be average so some could be below 3...

[sam_sam_sam]

Ah... in #88, 25.something could be 25.1 and it would be around 3.14vpc. But this would be average so some could be below 3...

You are correct about that the individual cells could have lower or higher voltage levels than each other but this situation is not good either unless the BMS protection board does not have a balancing function on this issue might mean a lot and might not but in this situation this is where you need to test the individual cell rails to determine if it is an issue or not

[sam_sam_sam]

I have given this some thought about the 9.6 BMS balancing boards that I recently bought and reconfigure one so that it a 6.4 volt balancing protection board because the one that is 6.4 volts uses a different type of setup and if the results are not satisfactory about the cutout voltage when changing them and the discharge cutout voltage is to low

It would be alright for low current output battery cells but not ok for high current output battery packs that I want to also build

If fact today I might build a 2S2P battery pack for testing purposes for 6.4 BMS balancing protection board that I am referring to and see how it behaves and weather or not I will be happy about what results I get

I have open the other box that I got from Battery Hookup that is those battery cells that are very high current capacity that I had a website link where I made a comment about these battery packs and made the comment that the shipping was more expensive if shipped all together

[eccerr0r]

Well at 25.something the risk is there, if it were 28V then they should be closer to 3.5V.

Well I'd be happy if these things could do 1C, though 2C would be great but won't ever try to go that high. Test Test Test Report!

[sam_sam_sam]

Well I'd be happy if these things could do 1C, though 2C would be great but won't ever try to go that high. Test Test Test Report!

I am working on doing just that I should have some results soon

One thing I can tell you is that the BMS board does have temperature sensor that is on the battery pack lt also has a very small circuit board that I not sure exactly what it is because it was covered with glue of some kind I never seen this before on a battery pack so I have no idea what it could or what it does

Remember these battery cells are Lipo 4 battery cells and there working voltage is 3.2 and fully charged they are at 3.5 volts

[eccerr0r]

Yes if it were fully charged it'd be closer to be balanced with the internal top balancer...
Hmm...curious what else is on the pack, then... temperature sensing would be nice...

[sam_sam_sam]

Well I have the individual battery cell monitor module hooked up to the battery pack and battery testing that 12 to 72 volts hooked up to the battery pack
the discharge curve looks good the battery cell differential voltage is 0.006 the individual battery voltage cell monitor says that the battery is in good condition as far as the differential voltage is concerned but it has not finished the discharge testing yet

In the picture you can see the individual battery voltages and on the battery testing machine you can see the discharge rate and milliamperes as of when the picture was taken

I first put it on charge and I am not impressed with the results that I was seeing at 2 amps charging rate the individual battery cell monitor was showing 0.600 volts differential and it showing battery not in good condition and I would agree with it in that you can not charge it at this rate and this just a BMS protection board and does not have the balancing function on it and I will probably remove and install a BMS balancing protection board instead and use this board on the low current battery cells that I also bought so I do not have to buy a BMS protection boards for those battery cells to make a 24 volt battery pack

These battery packs are the same width as a 12 volt 7 amp battery backup that has two battery packs in it just have removed the thick foam pad from underneath it and it is a little bit shorter than the 12 volt 7 amp hour battery pack so it will fit in there nicely but I going to have to remove one battery cell so that the battery pack will charge up completely I had to this before to get a good running time out of the battery pack

How I am going to separate this battery pack I am going to cut it down the middle of the pack that holds the two rows of battery cells then remove on cell from two different packs rejoin them together so I would have a 7S2P battery pack instead of a 7S1P battery pack and there will also be enough room for the BMS balancing protection board as well

Here are the results after nearly 40 minutes has elapsed and the battery voltage differential is still in the good range at 0.008 volts and this is at a 2.00 amp load

You can not ask for anything better than this for a battery pack that costs nearly $10.00 and just near $9.00 each if you buy 12 of them at one time

I will have to do more testing with the charging function to see what current I can charge them at and still be in the good range according to the individual battery cell monitoring module because this system seems to be very accurate from what I have seen so far

One note the individual battery voltage monitor does not come with the stand the stand is a tablet stand that was modified for the use with the individual battery voltage monitoring module just in case you were wondering how nice this setup is the plastic cover does come with the battery cell voltage monitor module

One other note I modified the connectors on this individual battery cell monitoring module to keep from missing the first pin which is negative on the battery voltage meter module

[eccerr0r]

That's not very promising that it can't take 1C charge..and only can discharge at C/3 ?