Does anyone have a good method to desolder this with a soldering iron as basically I am trying to desolder at J12 which is connected with 3 pins the same size as the ones on J7, I have desoldering wick and also both solder sucker and solder bulb. A capacitor has 2 pins so it's easier but how do you desolder something with 3 pins? I have tried using a flat bladed screwdriver after lifting the first two pins but couldn't get the last pin to move.
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Good method to desolder this with soldering iron?
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Re: Good method to desolder this with soldering iron?
Add more solder and flux and use wide tip 60 W iron and move the tip back and forth between pins while gently pulling on the connector.Never stop learning
Basic LCD TV and Monitor troubleshooting guides.
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...956#post305956
Voltage Regulator (LDO) testing:
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...999#post300999
Inverter testing using old CFL:
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...er+testing+cfl
Tear down pictures : Hit the ">" Show Albums and stories" on the left side
http://s807.photobucket.com/user/budm/library/
TV Factory reset codes listing:
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=24809
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Re: Good method to desolder this with soldering iron?
What should the temperature for the iron be set to? I have it currently at 450F using the pencil tip because it helps when clearing the holes as the tip fits inside. Otherwise, I couldn't get the solder melted to clear the hole so I can insert new capacitors.
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Re: Good method to desolder this with soldering iron?
I thought we are talking about removing the connector. My Weller is 700F degree wide tip.Never stop learning
Basic LCD TV and Monitor troubleshooting guides.
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...956#post305956
Voltage Regulator (LDO) testing:
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...999#post300999
Inverter testing using old CFL:
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...er+testing+cfl
Tear down pictures : Hit the ">" Show Albums and stories" on the left side
http://s807.photobucket.com/user/budm/library/
TV Factory reset codes listing:
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=24809
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Re: Good method to desolder this with soldering iron?
We were except I will still need to clean the holes after removing the connector, how long does it actually take for a tip to cool down so I can swap it? Using this picture, would 3.2D would better or 4C as I have both types.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/12-pcs-Iron-...3D230959606805
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Re: Good method to desolder this with soldering iron?
Your method worked, I had the iron at 450C with the wide tip similar to 4C. It took some time and basically on the back side, counting from the top to back, for pin 2 the pad on the back lifted off which is part of the solder mask/trace on the back, on the other side, pin 2 is connected to a trace and also ripped off the trace at the last 1/4" from the hole. pin 3, the front side is fine but the back side, the pad also lifted off which is part of another solder mask/trace. What's the correct procedure to fix the lifted off pads as it seems to be part of the trace on the back and is there a way to fix the trace to the hole on the front side for pin 2? I was thinking solder from the trace to the hole but solder won't stick to the PCB or is there a way to make it stick when there is no copper underneath, I have one of those conductive pens as well.
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Re: Good method to desolder this with soldering iron?
Anyways, two of the metal sleeves were stuck to the pins resulting in one of the traces being torn out, ofcourse the three pads also lifted off except one was physically part of the trace and not a separate piece. So what I ended up doing was first take the metal sleeves back out from the pins and then used non-teeth pliers to push the metal sleeves back where they belong and for the one with the broken trace, I basically scraped the solder mask off exposing the copper and then used solder to get them back together and then using a Digital Multi-Meter to check for continuance to make sure the rest of the trace can see it. I tried to use 5 minute epoxy, the one that comes in two separate bottles to put the two lifted pads back and allowed 24 hours for it to dry except when I tried to put the mini-board back, the pads lifted off again as the epoxy doesn't seem to hold it well. The only problem is small square pad in the middle completely melted when I tried to apply a layer of solder to bond it to the pad so basically now, the board is bare naked for that hole, is there anything I can do to fix that one? Wonder what type of material was that pad made out of. The front side with the metal sleeves is secure with the soldering and I've checked all the traces which on both the front and backside where those pins lead to with the digital multi-meter and they all conduct current fine. Pictures are attached to the post. Sure a lot of trouble to change that one capacitor on the mini-board.Last edited by Almighty1; 10-14-2014, 04:44 PM.
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