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Toshiba A300D-18A Potomac 10A+/AG+ no Power

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    Toshiba A300D-18A Potomac 10A+/AG+ no Power

    Hello!

    I have a Toshiba A300D-18A with no led and no power.
    First check, I noticed that 3.3V were missing @ bios chip.
    Got the schematic for this board, and ended up near U15 where 3.3V go out of Vo2 of this IC. Mesured pin7 and 3.3V where there.
    @ PAD7, I only get 0.28V where 3.3V should present.
    V02 goes to L22, C365 ,C417,R270 and C418.
    Some components arent labeled, so I mesured continuity and found some points that should be these components (marked on photo with voltages).

    Mesured resistance between Pad7 to GND , 25,5 ohm.
    Mesured some of these components in Diode mode and one read open, the other 0.918 , and the one marked in blue 0.03

    How can I go from here without the labels and find out the culprit?
    Or is it that C in blue?

    Thanks for any help!
    Attached Files

    #2
    Re: Toshiba A300D-18A Potomac 10A+/AG+ no Power

    Hello!

    Well, forget the readings I made on the first post, I was mesuring pin7 of U15 @ pin8

    Well, mesured the right pins of U15 and I dont get 3.3V neither 5V. (see 2nd picture of 1rst post)

    PIN7 (V02) - 0.27V
    PIN24 (VO1) - 0.22V
    PIN16 (VIN) - 19V

    The 19V are there, but the outputs aren't good.
    Should I swap U15 and see from there?

    Or should I check somethig more?

    Thanks in advance!

    Comment


      #3
      Re: Toshiba A300D-18A Potomac 10A+/AG+ no Power

      25 ohms seems too small for 3.3v output

      Comment


        #4
        Re: Toshiba A300D-18A Potomac 10A+/AG+ no Power

        Mesured PAD7 (3.3V ) to GND 900 Ohm.

        Cheers,

        Comment


          #5
          Re: Toshiba A300D-18A Potomac 10A+/AG+ no Power

          Hello again!

          I'm in a dilemma ... anyone with experience in these 5V and 3.3V getting out of IC U15 ?
          Should I get a new IC or troubleshoot somewhere else?

          Thanks for any inputs!

          Comment


            #6
            Re: Toshiba A300D-18A Potomac 10A+/AG+ no Power

            https://cdn.badcaps-static.com/pdfs/...8da1a902a3.pdf

            Chip temp ok?
            Pin 8 - 3.3V ?
            Pin 17 - 5V ?
            Pin 13 - what V ?

            Comment


              #7
              Re: Toshiba A300D-18A Potomac 10A+/AG+ no Power

              Originally posted by khaahk View Post
              https://cdn.badcaps-static.com/pdfs/...8da1a902a3.pdf

              Chip temp ok?
              Pin 8 - 3.3V ?
              Pin 17 - 5V ?
              Pin 13 - what V ?
              Thanks for your help!

              Well here are the readings :

              PIN8 - 3.36V
              PIN17 - 0,01 V (NOK)
              PIN 13 - 1.3V when I put the proble then goes down to 1V in a few secs

              I put my finger on it and 5 secs after I cant support the heat :/

              It's not good I suppose :/

              Comment


                #8
                Re: Toshiba A300D-18A Potomac 10A+/AG+ no Power

                pin 13 is enabling signal. if its hot than i think its bad.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Re: Toshiba A300D-18A Potomac 10A+/AG+ no Power

                  Ok, so if I wanna change it I must order it from China and wait 3 weeks or should I scrap other boards for it?

                  I Have a few at the office , maybe I can find one in there ...

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Re: Toshiba A300D-18A Potomac 10A+/AG+ no Power

                    Are you getting 25 or 900Ohms from pad7???

                    Also post voltages of PIN1 & PIN6...
                    Last edited by loser18; 11-16-2014, 06:25 PM.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Re: Toshiba A300D-18A Potomac 10A+/AG+ no Power

                      Originally posted by loser18 View Post
                      Are you getting 25 or 900Ohms from pad7???

                      Also post voltages of PIN1 & PIN6...
                      Hello,

                      Yes, 900 ohm PAD7 to GND.

                      PIN1 - 0.01V
                      PIN6 - 0.01V

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Re: Toshiba A300D-18A Potomac 10A+/AG+ no Power

                        OK...

                        Could You post resistance of all pins @ U15...

                        If it's getting hot, it doesn't necessarily mean that the regulator is faulty (may be some other component around) , but it'll be my bet...
                        BTW it should be interchangeable with RT8205B or UP6182, BUT CHECK DATASHEETS FIRST AS THIS 1 IS CONNECTED DIFFERENTLY THAN USUAL (THERE'S ANOTHER DUAL CHANNEL ENABLE PINS)
                        Last edited by loser18; 11-16-2014, 09:23 PM.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Re: Toshiba A300D-18A Potomac 10A+/AG+ no Power

                          try removing the solder at PAD7, plug in the adapter and measure if you get 3.3v at L22. we need to know if U15 is the problem.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Re: Toshiba A300D-18A Potomac 10A+/AG+ no Power

                            I think those +V3A & +V5A voltages are S3 state signals...Doesn't make a sense to have them twice as VREG3 & VREG5...
                            They appears only after pressing PWR button...But I may be wrong...

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Re: Toshiba A300D-18A Potomac 10A+/AG+ no Power

                              Originally posted by loser18 View Post
                              I think those +V3A & +V5A voltages are S3 state signals...Doesn't make a sense to have them twice as VREG3 & VREG5...
                              They appears only after pressing PWR button...But I may be wrong...
                              Bios chip doesnt get 3.3V neither Power button.
                              But I'm not an expert, or I would'nt be here asking for your thoughts

                              And this IC is extremely hot to touch , cant stand 5 secs with my finger on it...

                              Gonna try to find the same regulator and change it if possible.

                              I'll post the results.
                              Last edited by magneh; 11-17-2014, 06:08 AM.

                              Comment


                                #16
                                Re: Toshiba A300D-18A Potomac 10A+/AG+ no Power

                                Originally posted by loser18 View Post
                                OK...

                                Could You post resistance of all pins @ U15...

                                If it's getting hot, it doesn't necessarily mean that the regulator is faulty (may be some other component around) , but it'll be my bet...
                                BTW it should be interchangeable with RT8205B or UP6182, BUT CHECK DATASHEETS FIRST AS THIS 1 IS CONNECTED DIFFERENTLY THAN USUAL (THERE'S ANOTHER DUAL CHANNEL ENABLE PINS)
                                Well, verified carefully the resistance of all pins of U15 and coils.
                                Also verified the resistance of PAD7, 8 and 9 to GND and there was an error on the values I gave before.

                                U15
                                PIN1 - 460 Ω PIN2 - 6k Ω PIN3 - open PIN4 - open
                                PIN5 - 6k Ω PIN6 - 51kΩ PIN7 - 3.7kΩ PIN8 - open
                                PIN9 - open PIN10 - 23Ω PIN11 - 24Ω PIN12 - 8.8Ω
                                PIN13 - open PIN14 - open PIN15 - 0.5Ω PIN16 - open
                                PIN17 - 20.7Ω PIN18 - open PIN19 - open PIN20 - 4.8Ω
                                PIN21 - 24.3Ω PIN22 - open PIN23 - open PIN24 - 4.8Ω

                                L22 - 24.8Ω L35 - 4.8Ω L18 - 360Ω L39 - 950Ω

                                PAD7 - 24.8Ω PAD8 - open PAD9 - 4.8Ω

                                My previous reading of PAD7 waswrong maybe to problem with ground probe. Re- verified and it's 24.8 Ω and PAD9 - 4.8Ω .

                                Comment


                                  #17
                                  Re: Toshiba A300D-18A Potomac 10A+/AG+ no Power

                                  Really strange values...

                                  I think the best way is to remove that regulator & check resistance of L22 & L35 to see if the short is gone...& think both rails are shorted cause 25Ω for 3.3V & 5Ω for 5V are too low...

                                  BTW I'm not PRO either & it's hard to do troubleshooting just in theory without mobo in my hands...

                                  Comment


                                    #18
                                    Re: Toshiba A300D-18A Potomac 10A+/AG+ no Power

                                    Originally posted by loser18 View Post
                                    Really strange values...

                                    I think the best way is to remove that regulator & check resistance of L22 & L35 to see if the short is gone...& think both rails are shorted cause 25Ω for 3.3V & 5Ω for 5V are too low...

                                    BTW I'm not PRO either & it's hard to do troubleshooting just in theory without mobo in my hands...
                                    Ok! Gonna lift U15 and make the readings.
                                    Thanks!

                                    I know that, that's why I wanna thanks to guys like you that help less experienced people!
                                    I'll post results.

                                    Cheers

                                    Comment


                                      #19
                                      Re: Toshiba A300D-18A Potomac 10A+/AG+ no Power

                                      OK...

                                      FORGET ALL ABOUT S3 STATE I'VE SAID...
                                      I found similar mobo (think it's from toshiba L350D) in my "scrapBOX" & managed to get all charger rails working...
                                      I has the same architecture & chips (at least 3.3V & 5V rail) and found that +V3A & +V5A voltages shows up in S5 state...
                                      That means the regulator should drive those voltages immediate after charger plugged in...

                                      NOW I'm 100% sure that you have both rails shorted...
                                      Take that U15 off & post resistance @ L22 & L35 or those PADS...

                                      Comment


                                        #20
                                        Re: Toshiba A300D-18A Potomac 10A+/AG+ no Power

                                        Originally posted by loser18 View Post
                                        OK...

                                        FORGET ALL ABOUT S3 STATE I'VE SAID...
                                        I found similar mobo (think it's from toshiba L350D) in my "scrapBOX" & managed to get all charger rails working...
                                        I has the same architecture & chips (at least 3.3V & 5V rail) and found that +V3A & +V5A voltages shows up in S5 state...
                                        That means the regulator should drive those voltages immediate after charger plugged in...

                                        NOW I'm 100% sure that you have both rails shorted...
                                        Take that U15 off & post resistance @ L22 & L35 or those PADS...
                                        Well, removed U15 and I see some changes in values ...

                                        L22 - open
                                        L35 - 1.7K

                                        PAD7 - 1.35K
                                        PAD9 - open

                                        Should I suppose short is gone? And U15 is the culprit?
                                        Or should I check any other parts of the circuit?

                                        Thanks!
                                        Attached Files

                                        Comment

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