This is a spot I found on a dead card.
Is it blown or is it glue?
Is it blown or is it glue?
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Re: Bad or just glue?
There is no code next to the device, and should it be replaced?Comment
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Re: Bad or just glue?
It's a stand alone 8Ch DVR system box, and no it doesn't come on.
I picked it up at a swap meet to play with.
I was looking over the system and saw this.Comment
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Re: Bad or just glue?
I'm looking at the pics you sent it does look like glue although i'm not sure if its the chloroprene type glue, (which becomes conductive when it blackens)
The mystery is the component its covering is it a zener diode, or an inductor.... that's what im trying to figure out. I would remove the glue but im unsure if it killed that component..Yes i love Nichicon MUSE Audio Capacitors...they would look awesome all over any motherboardComment
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Re: Bad or just glue?
Looks like a tuning-fork type crystal, usually 32.768 kHz.
Clean around U11 with an acetone based cleaner and cotton swab.
"pokemon go... to hell!"
EOL it...
Originally posted by shango066Originally posted by smashstuff30guilty,guilty,guilty,guilty!
guilty of being cheap-made!
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Re: Bad or just glue?
Yes, remove that black gunk first, try gently scraping it off with a screwdriver tip , use some cottow swabs dabbed in isopropyl alcohol if needed.
That gunk goes brown / black with time and becomes conductive, so it can create connections between pins.
I would also warm up the plastic shroud on that connector or desolder the connector completely to make sure there's no black stuff under the connector potentially creating a low resistance path between the two pins of the connector.
Also scrape that crap between U10 and U11, the stuff may cause problems between those chips.
I doubt the crystal has problems, they used this blackened glue to keep it stuck to the board and not vibrate or shake around. But they use some plastic sleeve around the crystal case, so I doubt there's some connection between the case of the crystal and stuff on the board, i doubt the crystal is affected.
Nevertheless, you should remove that black stuff before continuing the diagnostics.Comment
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Re: Bad or just glue?
Also, look at the white plugin where the glue stops.
There is a tiny string of glue going to each post. I didn't what to do anything until y'all looked at it. It's hard to see in pic #2.Comment
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Hi folks,
I'm new to this forum. So my trusty 17-year-old LG 47" LCD recently died. As I was booting it up, I heard a hum followed by a loud bang, sounds of pieces flying around, and loss of power to the unit. Inspecting the PSU, I saw two obvious problems: a blown thermistor (bang + flung pieces) and a visibly bulging main cap. Inspecting as many components as I could with my Fluke MM, I diagnosed that the following components on the "hot side" of the board were also bad: one of the 2 main MOSFETs, main 8A fuse, small cap (25V 47uF) connected to main caps, and a blown... -
I know many folks on this forum warn against conductive glue and suggest removing it immediately upon site. I'm here to vouch and say these people know what they are talking about. To be more accurate, the glue isn't intended to be and doesn't actually start out conductive. It gets conductive as it is heated by components that get hot. The glue starts out to be a light tan color but as it is exposed to heat, it gets darker and darker until it is a dark brown. I have found that it becomes conductive at the point that it reaches a light brown color on darker.
Here is an experience I... -
HP Modelnumber: 14-dh0061nb​
This laptop had a shorted cap on a Vcore section. After replacement is works again. But there is still a battery issue.
The battery is HT03XL and with the built-in component test from HP, in the Power section, I get an error: Logic State: Calibration required (20), Charge state: Blown Fuse (42)
I have another same battery, also with error: Logic State: Very Weak (70), Charge state: Blown Fuse (42)
And a third battery TF03XL (looks identical) with error: Logic State: OK (0), Charge state: Blown Fuse (42)
All these 3 batteries are charging... -
This is a guide that I am writing for helping others to replace their MEC1503 EC chip if it breaks (or to get around an inconvenient prompt to the BIOS). This forum has been extremely helpful to me so I would like to contribute to help others. I will tell you right now that this task is very difficult to do. You MUST have experience and tools to do precision micro-soldering, BGA reballing, trace repair, and general laptop repair skills.
There are some specialty tools needed to do this task. The replacement MEC1503 chips can be acquired from Aliexpress. Do not buy the bare chips as... -
Hey everyone,
I'm a novice trying to repair my laptop. The LCD screen has an image, but no LED backlight for the image. It also produces an image when connected to an external monitor.
I have found what I believe to be a blown inductor labeled "L4502" and "120 Ohm" in the schematics (zoomed in image, blue arrow to blown component). I have included an image of the general area of the mobo and an excerpt from the schematics as well.
I am having trouble selecting a replacement component, which I believe to be a 120 Ohm ferrite bead, from the components...
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