Just a quick question to see if its even possible or wise to do so. Can Electrolytic Caps be replaced by Polymer Caps. If so would the ratings be the same and is it even a wise idea?
Thanks
Dale
Thanks
Dale
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Re: Replacing with Polymer Caps?
It depends...
What are you talking about?
In PSU it can be a pretty bad idea due to too low ESR, on VRMs it may be possible, but you still may need some capacitance...
So to really answer your question, we need more details of what things you mean... -
Re: Replacing with Polymer Caps?
Sorry about being so general. Right now I'm looking at a an MSI Motherboard that has bad caps on the 24pin power circuit. They are Electolytic caps and the rest of the board is Polymer caps. I didn't have any like caps to replace the bad ones but I do have some polymers on hand that might work if it was possible. I did find some more information last night on researching and it appears that some people have switched them before and you can cut the uF requirement in half by doing so. Of course this comes from sources I don't trust so I was looking here to get the experts opinion on doing so. I don't mind risking the board....its a cheap one at that. I don't do Fire and Smoke very well though so I'm just looking for advice.
Thanks
DaleComment
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My 3.5 years old monitor (BenQ SW2700pt) started to black out for 1-2 sec every minute or so, it was doing this even with PC disconnected from it. I searched online and read that it's probably aging capacitors and there's a workaround to lower the brightness.
I lowered it from 100 to 65% and it indeed helped, but after a couple of months the issue returned... I continued to lower the brightness, but it helped only for a couple of hours at most, then I needed to lower it further... Turning the monitor off and waiting for it to cool down also helped for a short time, after which it... -
Hi
Recently I got this tagan tg380-u01 PSU with bad caps on 3.3v rail (the line was 2.5v no load!). Replaced them but no go, so I've replaced all of them, apart from some smaller ones and one under the secondary heatsink. Even that didn't help so I've replaced the others. All caps are known good ones.
Powered it on and heard the breaker pop. Opened it up and saw some smaller caps shorted together. Fixed that up but still it trips breakers. Now I get 0ohms from 5v to GND. Secondary heatsink removed and still a short, even with the PWM IC board removed. All diodes on that... -
Normally, I never post repairs this quick after I do them, because… I am usually very slow.
But today, I’m making an exception here. Why? No idea. Perhaps only because the repair details are still “fresh” in my head… which is ironic, given this is a 16 year old monitor that hardly anyone will care about today. It is new to me, though. 
I picked it up last November from someone on my local Craigslist. It wasn’t very close to where I live, but was close to a family friend that I had to go visit anyways. So after watching the posting on Craigslist for a few weeks and seeing it getting...
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I'm recapping an old Creative Labs / Cambridge speaker system / subwoofer. At 4:33 in this video, the person looking at what he says are the speaker caps in the system says they are 470 uF, and that he'd use much larger caps if he was building it.
https://youtu.be/1LRIzePlma0?t=273
I'm wondering if I should use something larger for the recap job, and what using larger caps will do for it.
Would 680uF be good value to try in place of the 470uF originals? -
Howdy folks,
I have an Optiplex GX260 that blew a couple of those troublesome Nichicon HM series (ultra low ESR) electrolytic capacitors. Because said caps are obsolete, they are pretty much impossible to find on the market; I did find a listing for some but I believe they are counterfeit. I feel the easiest thing to do would be to replace all the blown caps with polymer ones. I am by no means an expert in electronics, and I've found a fair bit of conflicting information, so any guidance or confirmation would be greatly appreciated. While from a practical standpoint it's not worth...
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