I get a faint, low hum through my PC speakers, which connect to the subwoofer in a 2.1 speaker system. The hum drives me crazy and makes me stressed. When I turn off the subwoofer, everything is quiet and I start to relax, lol.
Here's an audio clip of the sound coming from my speakers:
[url]https://vocaroo.com/16HaryHwTx78[/url]
I recorded with my phone's mic right next to the speaker, and the mic picked up a lot of speaker noise over top of the hum. But I don't hear that noise in the room, I just hear the lower-pitched hum that's buried beneath all...
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I replaced all electrolytics in subwoofer, still get a hum in speakers - audio clip
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Re: Replacing caps in an old speaker system. Should I use a higher value here?
I didn't pick the brand, but ordered from a local store that I trusted would have decent caps. It looks like they're a mix of different brands (same brand per cap value): Nichicon, Rubycon, KEMET, KMG, and one that just has a diamond shape on it in addition to its stated value....
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Re: Replacing caps in an old speaker system. Should I use a higher value here?
Here's an update:
I initially replaced all the electrolytic caps other than 4 non-polar 1uf 50v caps, as I accidentally ordered polar 1uf 50v caps. I ordered some Nichicon NP 1uf 100v caps separately, and I installed them when they arrived.
Both after initially replacing all the electrolytic caps other than the 1uf ones, and after, the speaker system sounds great, without the buzz and hum that it had before. After later installing the 1uf caps, it seems to me the system has far...
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Re: Replacing caps in an old speaker system. Should I use a higher value here?
Unfortunately, I don't know. My circuitry knowledge extends little beyond soldering and following traces. Would there be an obvious way to tell, or any risk, if I just installed 680uF caps, and then tested it by using it normally?...
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Replacing caps in an old speaker system. Should I use a higher value here?
I'm recapping an old Creative Labs / Cambridge speaker system / subwoofer. At 4:33 in this video, the person looking at what he says are the speaker caps in the system says they are 470 uF, and that he'd use much larger caps if he was building it.
[url]https://youtu.be/1LRIzePlma0?t=273[/url]
I'm wondering if I should use something larger for the recap job, and what using larger caps will do for it.
Would 680uF be good value to try in place of the 470uF originals?https://I'm recapping an old Creativ...t 4:33 in this
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Re: Can you help me figure out how to get into this area to fix a connection?
Today, I decided to attempt to desolder the RCA connector to access the 3.5mm front and rear power connectors, which I also removed.
It could have been that those connectors needed re-soldering, but I also wondered whether maybe the connector itself was worn out.
I didn't have a spare connector on hand, but I've typically only used the front speakers, with the front speaker power connector attached, without having anything plugged into the rear speaker power connector....Last edited by Delicieuxz; 11-09-2017, 09:54 PM.
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Re: Can you help me figure out how to get into this area to fix a connection?
So, I've used the system for many hours, and occasionally the right speaker momentarily comes on, sometimes for a few minutes, and then stops working again.
Also, when I have the right speaker connected, there's an electronic buzz coming from it. And when I connect it, there's sometimes a pop sound.
FURTHER... OK, I just found this out: The rear connector panel for the subwoofer contains RCA connectors for each of the L/R front and rear speakers, and also has the power...
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Re: Can you help me figure out how to get into this area to fix a connection?
I just removed and replaced all the solder on the connector's joints, and now the same speaker isn't playing any audio. So, it's something other than the solder joints. I don't know what, though. My guess is that I should next try replacing the connector.
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Re: Can you help me figure out how to get into this area to fix a connection?
I opened that chamber up after removing the bolt and the screws, and pulling very hard with pliers while pushing the subwoofer in the opposite direction. There was a lot of glue holding it in place, and lots of crunching noises as I pulled it out. The metal backplate continued to stay stuck to the PCB after I had pulled it out. I separated them and cleaned off the glue.
I couldn't find anything visibly amiss with the RCA connector, inside or out, or with the PCB solder joints, but I reflowed...Last edited by Delicieuxz; 07-03-2017, 04:58 PM.
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Re: Can you help me figure out how to get into this area to fix a connection?
I uploaded them to Imgur. They show up on my screen, so maybe the Imgur server hosting them was down for a bit. Are they still not visible on your screen?
Yup.
Good point. I'll check that out.
Wow, a disassembly video of this old system, haha. Too bad he doesn't show the opening the part in question, here, but that nut under the knob is something that I missed before.
Also, he says that his metal...Last edited by Delicieuxz; 07-03-2017, 12:05 AM.
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Can you help me figure out how to get into this area to fix a connection?
The front-right RCA connector for my PC subwoofer has lost its connection, and for a while it would flicker in and out of sound if I played around with pushing the connector, but now I can't get sound to come out of it at all. The speaker works fine when I plug it into another RCA connector, so I know it is the front-right RCA connector that's broken.
The RCA connectors for this subwoofer chassis are sealed inside this chamber.
I've tried to get into it by removing all the screws, and by trying...
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Re: Samsung Syncmaster 2693hm - flicker on startup
I replaced all the listed caps on the power board and reassembled my monitor, and now it's functioning all well.
I've been turning my monitor off and on and appreciating the experience of it working. It takes ~2 seconds longer to light up after the power button is pressed than it had with the previous caps, but then it comes full on in one moment.
Move over Tesla, I am en electric god! Ah ha ha ha!
Thanks everyone for help.
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Re: Samsung Syncmaster 2693hm - flicker on startup
I smelled around the monitor screen and sensed no smell, and no cracked solder joints around the transformer.
I pulled the caulk covered cap out of the way and it's another 22uf 50v, so the total list of larger caps for the Syncmaster 2693hm is:
3x 1000uf 35v
1x 1000uf 25v
2x 2200uf 10v
2x 47uf 50v
3x 22uf 50v
2x 2.2uf 50vLast edited by Delicieuxz; 11-07-2014, 03:41 PM.
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Re: Samsung Syncmaster 2693hm - flicker on startup
Hope the pictures show as attachments for this post. Front and back shots of the power board, and front/back doors of the power and inverter board.
[IMG]https://www.badcaps.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=98561&stc=1&d=1415331802[/IMG...
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Re: Samsung Syncmaster 2693hm - flicker on startup
[url]http://i.imgur.com/4ZPIo4B.jpg[/url]
[url]http://i.imgur.com/mK1mSKd.jpg[/url]Re: Samsung Syncmaster 2693hm - flic...mSKd.jpg[/url]Re: Samsung Syncmaster 2693hm - flicker on startup
[url]http://i.imgur.com/4ZPIo4B.jpg[/url]
[url]http://i.imgur.com/mK1mSKd.jpg[/url]Re: Samsung Syncmaster 2693hm - flic...pg[/url]<br />
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Re: Samsung Syncmaster 2693hm - flicker on startup
Urls for images of the power board are:
[url]http://i.imgur.com/mK1mSKd.jpg[/url]
[url]http://i.imgur.com/4ZPIo4B.jpg[/url]
I'm doing things on a tablet and it's a bit awkward.
A previous thread I made regarding the issue is here:
[url]https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=41718[/url]
I'm thinking to just replace all the caps and hope it fixes things. I don't know if I can presently turn the monitor on as it's presently disassembled.Re:...Last edited by Delicieuxz; 11-06-2014, 06:57 PM.
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Samsung Syncmaster 2693hm - flicker on startup
Issue: over a couple weeks, black flicker on turning on after having been off for a while has grown from a few seconds to nearly a minute.
I've opened the monitor up and see no obvious fault, such as bloated caps or burnt pcb
- but a few weeks ago there was detected a burning electric smell in my computer room for which I found no source and which disappeared after a while.
I haven't seen them listed elsewhere for the 2693hm, so I'll list its cap values here for other people:
3x 1000uf 35v
1x 1000uf 25v
2x 2200uf 10v
2x...
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Re: Samsung Syncmaster monitor 24" & 26" caps same?
Ok, I've now opened up the monitor.
I don't see visual damage on the power board or inverter board, and I haven't yet looked at the screen's components, which aren't immediately accessible.
Is it possible that a bad component will not show it on the outside, and should components other than capacitors initially be as suspect?
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