Any bulb above 50 Watts should do really, but I generally recommend above 60W. The higher the power rating of bulb, the more current that can be drawn by the device (both at start-up and continuously). 60W will probably allow you to run the amp with a small load. 100 Watts bulb should allow you to crank it up a bit more. Not much of a difference otherwise. I've even used 40 Watt bulbs in a pinch, too - works with devices that have a lower idle power draw.
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This is a while since the post was made, but I finally got around to building the dim bulb tester. I used a 75 W bulb and used it on a number of flat panel monitors and a pc. In all cases the bulb glows and then goes out and cycles this way continuously. The devices turn on then off with the bulb. I was expecting the device to turn on and the bulb to turn on then go off if all was working well and for the device itself to keep power. What is this behavior telling me?
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Hello,
can I use this cap:
https://www.tme.eu/en/details/ues1h4...tors/nichicon/
Capacitor: electrolytic; bipolar; THT; 47uF; 50V
to replace this capacitor: Electrolytic Radial E 47uF/50V 6.3x11 RM2.5 105°C Jamicon
What exactly I can expect to install bipolar electrolytic cap instead a regular one?
Thanks. -
I do have several old pc motherboards which i recapped 10 year ago and some of those caps are bulged now.
I would like to upgrade them using solid capacitors. I do use them for testing and helping some alternative operating systems.
I would like to ask if such an upgrade can be done, what should i have in mind when replacing electrolytic by solid caps and if such thing exist, if there are caps list for old motherboards. I would have to figure out what caps needs each motherboard and then prepare a list to try to ask for them on some electronics stores. -
From what I've found, the endurance of a liquid electrolytic cap is determined by the loss of electrolyte. If a cap is rated for 1000 hours. That's typically for a straight run test. How would the life vary if the cap is intermittently heated to its rated temperature (105C). Maybe for an hour at a time then cooled back to 30-40C (just a random number). Would the life still be 1000 hours?
Does it make a difference in the life expectancy if the cap is heating from ripple current (internal heating) instead of from the external ambient temperature?
Why do polymer capacitors... -
Hi all!
I just bought a pair of ADS L810 speakers, which I've heard are some of the best speakers from that time (late 70's) into the early 80's. I was super excited to test them out and hooked them up and I was very underwhelmed by the treble. The treble was awfully muffled. I've been doing some restoration work on 70's stereos and a couple of speakers here and there so I am really just a beginner. I do know that capacitors in speaker crossovers filter out the lows to allow only the highs up to the tweeters and mids. Inductors filter out the highs to allow the lower frequencies to... -
I have a situation where a power supply is commonly abused and the 12v supply caps take a beating. They don't commonly fail but they run hot. I was thinking about going from a liquid electrolytic (Panasonic FC and Nichicon HE) to an organic polymer. The values have been 330uF. I typically use a higher-than-needed voltage to get a lower ESR. The supply is operated from 12v.
If not organic polymer, what would be the caps that could take the most abuse?
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