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OK, so I resoldered the board and also got a second, used board, that supposedly was tested to be OK. With neither board does the control panel come on. The light in the drum is one so it is getting some power. Any thoughts as to where to go next? If this isn't a good source for support can anyone suggest a better source for support? -
Here are some pictures of the job, not pretty, but I am getting continuity from input post to the wire joint at the relay. So that solder job worked. Can't tell if the relay is making contact, but don't understand why it wouldn't. Your confirmation that relay should not suffer from the solder work means that it is dead because of that solder joint. I can try to reflow and add more solder. I used 60/40 solder and it seems like it was lead free solder originally, it was my understanding that mixing them shouldn't be an issue. Is this a wrong understanding?
Not sure I am understanding...Last edited by Eaglecrest; 11-27-2025, 09:38 AM.Leave a comment:
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I had a difficult time getting the old solder off. I needed to go to about 410 degrees to get it to melt. That seems rather high, but it was what it took. I was able to get the power strip connectors cleaned, but the relay never came clean. I used a solder sucker and copper braid, but I never seem to be able to get the braid to work. Thoughts and suggestions regarding these observations?
So I soldered a stranded 16G wire between the two points and the board is completely dead. Previously it would startup, but then die shortly after use. The power connection to the other end...Leave a comment:
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I moved up to a 100W bulb and it will now power up LCD monitors, but I have a 21" multisync that still won't power up (blinks). There aren't many options for higher wattage, as I understand it I will need to use multiple bulbs and I believe i need to connect them in parallel, is this correct?
How do I figure out what wattage I need for various different equipment?Leave a comment:
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R_J, that is my understanding. A couple of followup questions. Would an 18G wire be sufficient?
As I look at the schematic, it seems like when energized the relay turns on the motor. It seems like, therefore, if the relay goes bad then the dryer should function in every way, except the motor wouldn't come on and thus no clothes get dried. In my situation, nothing happens. The light inside the drum is on, but the control panel does not come on nor is there any kind of operation other than the interior light. Thus I am assuming that somehow the controller chip is monitoring this...Leave a comment:
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STJ, don't know how you got your understanding. I thought I was quite clear that I am looking to deal with a bad trace between the relay and the power connector. Bypassing the relay would have the motor running full time regardless of the setting. I don't see how that could possibly be a good idea. You never asked for clarification nor mentioned that would be a bad idea, if that was your thought.Leave a comment:
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I appreciate your advice, but you aren't answering my question. I don't see why I would need to remove the relay. It seems to work fine, when the board works. I would assume that a relay either works or it doesn't. Why would a relay work for a while, then stop and after "resting" work again?
Additionally, I purchased a used replacement board that had the same problems. Close examination of this board showed it had the relay replace and it appears that when the relay was replaced the trace I am asking about direct wiring was damaged and soldered to repair it. So I...Leave a comment:
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If I understand your comment correctly, if the relay is bad then hard wiring it won't do much/anything. I would assume that a relay will either work or not and since it does work after reset it seems like to issue isn't with the relay. If there is a poor connection and depending on what the controller chip is monitoring I am thinking that it is reacting to the damage to the trace and that is what is causing the error/failure. Again, assuming that the trace is the cause then I am thinking that if I hard wire from the relay post to the power post (exactly what the trace does) then I should be...Leave a comment:
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This is a while since the post was made, but I finally got around to building the dim bulb tester. I used a 75 W bulb and used it on a number of flat panel monitors and a pc. In all cases the bulb glows and then goes out and cycles this way continuously. The devices turn on then off with the bulb. I was expecting the device to turn on and the bulb to turn on then go off if all was working well and for the device itself to keep power. What is this behavior telling me?...Leave a comment:
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Whirlpool dryer control board
I have a Whirlpool dryer that runs for a while then stops with a blinking timer screen. The dryer can't be reset by hitting any input and if you pull the plug and plug it back in it also won't respond. Light is on in the drum when you open the door, but no other sign of life. If I leave it unplugged for a period of time, which is multiple days, it runs again. May be able to get a load done, but now seems to be less than full load before it errors out.
Since unplugging will get it to work, I am assuming that there is an error condition that is causing the onboard processor to shut...1 Photo -
Panasonic plasma color stripe
I have a 50" Panasonic that has a color stripe that shows up much of the time. See attached picture, what could cause this?1 Photo -
Re: Samsung PN50C6400
Is there a way to test the boards other than replacing?
If it is the panel then the boards should be good to sell, but if it is one of the boards then it would be too risky to sell boards.Leave a comment:
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Re: Samsung PN50C6400
Timmy,
Thanks, I was suspecting this given what I had read on some other posts. Do you think the horizontal black lines are the plasma screen as well or the Y board(s)?Leave a comment:
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Samsung PN50C6400
I have a Samsung PN50C6400 which has at least two line issues (picture attached). There are horizontal black lines of different size (perhaps wider ones are just multiple lines appearing as one) banded across middle of screen (none on top or bottom 20%). These lines started some years back and have slowly increased in number/size. They can be annoying, but i guess i have gotten used to them and often don't even recognize them when watching, but would like to "fix" them if possible.
There are also some vertical, colored lines right of center and near right side. They have... -
Re: Samsung PN50C550G1F black horizontal lines
I have a Samsung PN50C6400 which has at least two line issues (picture attached). There are horizontal black lines of different size (perhaps wider ones are just multiple lines appearing as one) banded across middle of screen (none on top or bottom 20%). These lines started some years back and have slowly increased in number/size. They can be annoying, but i guess i have gotten used to them and often don't even recognize them when watching, but would like to "fix" them if possible.
There are also some vertical,...Leave a comment:
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Transformer hum
Please forgive the ignorance, but I thought this might be a good place to ask this.
I recently purchased a Chinese clone ultrasonic cleaner. When plugged in and powered on (i.e., power switch turned on) there is a high pitched hum. From what I uncovered so far it would seem to be a 120 Hz hum. It is relatively low volume, but clearly definable. Again, this is without the utlrasonic or heating functions turned on, just power to the unit. I am assuming this is related to the transformer.
Is this something that I should worry about? Does it indicate an issue in wait... -
Re: Nintendo Wii power supply
Sorry for the delay, but here are pictures from a US supply for Heihachi_73.
I replaced the bulging smaller cap on left middle and the power supply works like a charm, can't same the same for the Wii....Last edited by Eaglecrest; 01-12-2021, 08:00 PM.Leave a comment:
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