Caps that appear fine still

Collapse
X
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
  • lnx64
    Member
    • Jul 2013
    • 11
    • USA

    #1

    Caps that appear fine still

    So I have an old television from around the early 80's. It's an old Samsung with Samwah and Samsung branded caps. The caps appear to be running completely fine still, even after many years of service. The picture is strong, bright, and vibrant. Only oddity is the speaker has a slight buzz to the vertical refresh rate (60Hz on NTSC sources and 50Hz on PAL sources). This to me inclines one of the caps may be going out of tolerance, but everything looks great inside, no buldges, nothing leaking, and when i run an ESR test on each cap, they actually pass.

    If they still pass an ESR test and the picture still looks good, case of don't fix if it ain't broke, or replace anyway? Thing is the buzz on the speaker may have just been a design fluke since the audio isolation transformer on it is directly under the CRT's yoke.

    Anyway, literally the only repair this TV ever needed was a new flyback transformer which I installed myself (since it was far cheaper for me to do it and I know how to handle them without getting hurt).
    Attached Files
  • mockingbird
    Badcaps Legend
    • Dec 2008
    • 5484
    • -

    #2
    Re: Caps that appear fine still

    How do you know you're getting reliable ESR measurements when testing the caps in circuit?

    Comment

    • lnx64
      Member
      • Jul 2013
      • 11
      • USA

      #3
      Re: Caps that appear fine still

      Originally posted by mockingbird
      How do you know you're getting reliable ESR measurements when testing the caps in circuit?
      I never measure in circuit, too many variables can affect the outcome. I removed them from circuit.

      This was tested though about a year and a half ago when I got the TV.

      Comment

      • ben7
        Capaholic
        • Jan 2011
        • 4059
        • USA

        #4
        Re: Caps that appear fine still

        I still am betting that the cap(s) might be the problem.

        Besides, what esr ratings/charts are you using? Usually these are just generalized values, so a low esr cap which reads a bit higher in esr (like that of a non low-esr cap of the same capacitance/voltage) would be 'fine' - according to the chart, that is!
        Muh-soggy-knee

        Comment

        • mockingbird
          Badcaps Legend
          • Dec 2008
          • 5484
          • -

          #5
          Re: Caps that appear fine still

          ben7 makes a good point. How do you qualify "passes an ESR test"... There are probably no series markings on these ancient caps. I've watched some arcade refurb videos, and TV re-caps are almost always done on cabinets from the 80s. If you do re-cap, don't buy a "kit" put together by someone for your specific model. These kits often contain substandard parts. Check if the caps have a series printed on them, and replace the large primary caps as well.

          Comment

          • c_hegge
            Badcaps Legend
            • Sep 2009
            • 5219
            • Australia

            #6
            Re: Caps that appear fine still

            I'd recap it anyway. Why, you ask? Because the original caps have no vent stamps and would be much more fun to throw in a fire
            I love putting bad caps and flat batteries in fire and watching them explode!!

            No wonder it doesn't work! You installed the jumper wires backwards

            Main PC: Core i7 3770K 3.5GHz, Gigabyte GA-Z77M-D3H-MVP, 8GB Kingston HyperX DDR3 1600, 240GB Intel 335 Series SSD, 750GB WD HDD, Sony Optiarc DVD RW, Palit nVidia GTX660 Ti, CoolerMaster N200 Case, Delta DPS-600MB 600W PSU, Hauppauge TV Tuner, Windows 7 Home Premium

            Office PC: HP ProLiant ML150 G3, 2x Xeon E5335 2GHz, 4GB DDR2 RAM, 120GB Intel 530 SSD, 2x 250GB HDD, 2x 450GB 15K SAS HDD in RAID 1, 1x 2TB HDD, nVidia 8400GS, Delta DPS-650BB 650W PSU, Windows 7 Pro

            Comment

            • lexwalker
              Badcaps Veteran
              • Feb 2011
              • 307
              • Malaysia

              #7
              Re: Caps that appear fine still

              Originally posted by lnx64
              So I have an old television from around the early 80's. It's an old Samsung with Samwah and Samsung branded caps. The caps appear to be running completely fine still, even after many years of service. The picture is strong, bright, and vibrant. Only oddity is the speaker has a slight buzz to the vertical refresh rate (60Hz on NTSC sources and 50Hz on PAL sources). This to me inclines one of the caps may be going out of tolerance, but everything looks great inside, no buldges, nothing leaking, and when i run an ESR test on each cap, they actually pass.
              Its possible that the buzz problem comes from the video signal detect circuit. On some TVs, the audio will only be enabled when there is a video signal detected at the input. (e.g. possibly resistor-capacitor charging/discharging method similar to switch debouncing). Also could be shielding issues. Other than that check the decoupling capacitor at the audio amplifier side.

              Comment

              • lnx64
                Member
                • Jul 2013
                • 11
                • USA

                #8
                Re: Caps that appear fine still

                This one doesn't auto mute, it's a rather crude and simple TV.. It has VHF and UHF knobs on it..

                But, the dc coupling capacitor, this would be interesting to look into.



                That's the schematic to the chassis on this TV.. The last pages are for the digital tuning some models of the TV had, but mine doesn't have that so only the main board's schematics are true.

                Comment

                Related Topics

                Collapse

                • momaka
                  Seasonic B12 BC-550 – barely 2 years old and with BAD CAPS already!
                  by momaka
                  I know I've been a little scarce lately (like the last 2-3 years), but I'm still here and still doing my thing with fixing PSUs.

                  For today's considerations, I have a Seasonic B12 BC-550 [A551bcafh] 550 Watt ATX power supply for you (click on links for full size images).

                  https://www.badcaps.net/filedata/fetch?id=3591771


                  https://www.badcaps.net/filedata/fetch?id=3591772

                  It's a modern ATX unit with fixed (non-modular) cables and an 80-plus bronze certificate. Here's the label:

                  https://www.badcaps.net/filedata/fetch?id=359177...
                  03-12-2025, 03:42 PM
                • eryjus
                  Heathkit IO-4205 Power Supply Caps
                  by eryjus
                  Hello,

                  First, I am a complete noob with high voltage stuff. I'm learning, but I need help by someone looking over my shoulder.

                  I recently came into posession of a Heathkit IO-4205 5MHz Dual Trace Oscilloscope. The documentation is copyright 1978. I'm told it works.

                  I opened it up to check the caps before I applied power, and found the following black caps and wanted to know what they were. They are on the power supply board. I was able to read the name and model and came up with, "Nytronics 162J-1, 0.1uF, 20% tolerance, 2000VDC."
                  ...
                  05-10-2023, 11:21 AM
                • Paxman_Swede
                  Identifying caps on an old Zoom 9000
                  by Paxman_Swede
                  Hello!

                  I have two projects on my work bench. One is a friends dead JBL Xtreme speaker with a blown voltage regulator and corresponding bulged and shorted cap. That cap has clear markings so I know what replacement I need for it.

                  The other project however is a whole different deal. It's a Zoom 9000 guitar effect from the 90th that has developed a devil hound howl when there is no input from the guitar. I'm guessing caps problem. So, since I don't really use this effect anymore I thought it would be a perfect project to learn on.

                  I have studied the board and...
                  01-14-2025, 09:51 AM
                • captain150
                  Help with switching power supply caps
                  by captain150
                  I'm trying to repair two old VCRs, they both have bad caps. One has leaky ones, the other would barely run until I subbed in some caps from another power supply I had laying around (though they are the wrong values). This vcr works for an hour or two, but then the power supply starts whining and the picture gets lines in it. I didn't replace all the secondary caps, so another voltage might still be problematic, or the values I used are too far off.
                  I've been on mouser and digikey but the options are a bit overwhelming. I just need some new ones that will work. They don't need to be top quality,...
                  03-16-2025, 07:34 PM
                • Foetuss
                  Gigabyte GA-6OXT :: caps question
                  by Foetuss
                  Good evening

                  I recently aquired a rev 1.1 Gigabyte 60XT, and was suprised of the amount of leaking caps for a motherboard of the P3 era. Especially the way the 330µf caps seems like the housing discolored even.
                  Now, there are some 3300µF 6.3V KZG series around the CPU. Would it be OK to replace them with something like EEUFR1A332 ? (Panasonic FR 3300µF 10V). Or was this board designed around very low ESR caps?

                  But I was also suprised about the bigger boys, which are 330µF 25V.
                  Could it be they used 25V caps because they were cheaper / available at that time?...
                  02-11-2025, 12:22 PM
                • Loading...
                • No more items.
                Working...