Thank you to the guys at HEGE supporting Badcaps [ HEGE ] [ HEGE DEX Chart ]

Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Advice sought on repairing a Belinea 101902 Monitor

Collapse
X
Collapse
 
  • Page of 1
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
Previous template Next
    #1

    Advice sought on repairing a Belinea 101902 Monitor

    Hi,

    I'm trying to repair a Belinea 101902 Monitor (Art#111916) and would like to ask the forums advice before I send off for the spare parts I think I need, or whether the monitor is perhaps beyond repair.

    When it is turned on, the power button is green for approx. 5 seconds and then it appears to restart, i.e. turn off briefly and then back on, and then repeats. When I had a laptop hooked up I saw a very brief, and faint, overlay which I believe was the "No Signal" because I perhaps didn't have the dual-screen mode in Ubuntu on correctly.

    When I opened the back I saw one cap on the display board was definitely blown (C58, 16v/330uF) and I suspected the large cap on the power board was also blown (C114 400v/100uF). After reading some of the posts in this forum saying that the large caps rarely blow I decided to replace the c58 - largely because I had a spare laying around - however the problem still persists and so I will order a replacement fot the C114. Looking closer. I think there is electrolyte at the base of one of the pins, so I am pretty sure it's blown.

    My concern is that the inductor (?) next to the C114 capacitor (L111) seems to also be damaged. The photos attached should give a reasonable view of it.

    I've only dabbled in electronics and I am not too sure how to go about taking measurements on the live circuit to determine if this component is damaged or not. If anyone could give me a hint where to start I would be most grateful.

    And if anyone could glance over the circuit photo and suggest other components that may need replacing before I send off my order that would also be really appreciated.

    If I've missed any critical information i'll be happy to add it.

    Many thanks,

    Gary
    Attached Files
    Tags: None
    #2
    Re: Advice sought on repairing a Belinea 101902 Monitor

    Yeah, the large capacitor definitely needs to be replaced but that's not a fix, you need to fix what caused the large cap to go bad.

    I would also be concerned about that glue they used that turned black - it may become conductive when it warms up, which may explains the resets.
    I see what looks like glue right under the bridge rectifier (the thin rectangle between the inductor and heatsink - could try to test if the rectifier still works by measuring the dc voltage it outputs.... it should be the same as probing the two leads of the large capacitor.

    I see more of that stuff on the small ceramic capacitor and a bit above that, where it's a diode or something... I'd clean it up and rub the terminals with isopropyl alcohol or something just to make sure they're not shorted.

    The inductor doesn't look that bad to me... looks more like overheated plastic. But it could be bad.

    Comment

      #3
      Re: Advice sought on repairing a Belinea 101902 Monitor

      Originally posted by garyhodgson View Post
      I suspected the large cap on the power board was also blown (C114 400v/100uF). After reading some of the posts in this forum saying that the large caps rarely blow
      The big cap is definitely bulging. I use the phrase "rarely, but not, never" when talking about the big cap.

      And if anyone could glance over the circuit photo and suggest other components that may need replacing before I send off my order that would also be really appreciated.
      With the big cap, I count 6 electrolytic caps in total on the power board. I would recommend replacing all 6 since they have in service for nearly 7 years.

      Your power board has signs of running really temperature hot from all the white glue turned brown and pcb discoloration so it wouldn't suprise me if some of the caps on the power board are dry, but not bloated. Remove all the brown glue as mariushm suggests.

      Capacitors die from age, heat, and shoddy build quality. Capacitors DO NOT have to be visibly bloated in order to bad. They can be out of tolerance uF (a 1000uF measures 20uF) and/or have high ESR (ohm). A multimeter will be insufficient to test for ESR. For that you need an ESR tester which costs between $50 and $300.

      Most members here will recommend that you replace ALL capacitors with reputable brands from reputable sellers. Brands like Rubycon, Panasonic, Nichicon and United Chemicon are suggested. A list of recommended caps can be found at

      https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=2280

      Here is an example of how to choose capacitors with respect to capacitance, voltage, diameter, height, ripple and ESR.

      https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showpo...4&postcount=19
      Last edited by retiredcaps; 12-17-2011, 06:32 PM.
      --- begin sig file ---

      If you are new to this forum, we can help a lot more if you please post clear focused pictures (max resolution 2000x2000 and 2MB) of your boards using the manage attachments button so they are hosted here. Information and picture clarity compositions should look like this post.

      We respectfully ask that you make some time and effort to read some of the guides available for basic troubleshooting. After you have read through them, then ask clarification questions or report your findings.

      Please do not post inline and offsite as they slow down the loading of pages.

      --- end sig file ---

      Comment

        #4
        Re: Advice sought on repairing a Belinea 101902 Monitor

        The inductor (L111) looks bad in the first picture, but in the last picture it appears to be varnish.

        PlainBill
        For a number of reasons, both health and personal, I will no longer be active on this board. Any PMs asking for assistance will be ignored.

        Never be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the ark. Professionals built the Titanic.

        Comment

          #5
          Re: Advice sought on repairing a Belinea 101902 Monitor

          The primary cap (the biggest one) is definitely bad. Bulging at the top and bottom, and electrolyte has been leaking out on one of the legs (last pic).

          Like retiredcaps said, I'd replace all the caps in there, seeing how hot it runs/ran.
          It was probably on 100% brightness (factory default) for its whole life..

          If you want to take the "crude but effective" way, you can modify the monitor to use an external 12V 3+A PSU brick if you want to (if the inverter is still OK)

          You could also do that modification temporarily to verify the signal board / mainboard is OK.
          The connector between the PSU and the mainboard should be labelled as to which pin is what. You could use that to "inject" 12V at at least 3A to see if it fires up.
          Alternative way would be to remove one of the output caps on the PSU board (all 4 caps are in parallel on the 12V output) and solder wires in place for testing.

          Try replacing the caps first. If it turns out to be a more in-depth problem, you could still use the external PSU method.

          Comment

            #6
            Re: Advice sought on repairing a Belinea 101902 Monitor

            Thanks for all the suggestions, I will certainly take them on board. I'll make the order for all the caps and clean up the board too.

            I'll update once the order arrives and I get them in place.

            Cheers!

            Comment

              #7
              Re: Advice sought on repairing a Belinea 101902 Monitor

              you can use from old notebook adaptor component such as, cap 100/400v and inductor
              and more i am using this way.

              Comment

              Previous template Next
              Working...
              X