ECS mcp61pm-hm 6-bad 1800uf 63 Tk caps

[retiredcaps]

Originally Posted by Pro289

Well, success! I've purchased replacement caps from this website.

Good job. Thanks for supporting this site with your purchase.

[xurious]

I know digging up posts is a bad thing, but I wanted to give a thanks for badcaps and this thread. I picked up a dead hp pavilion for free and found out this guy had the EXACT same caps go as the one I found! Must be one really big bad batch of caps. The time this board would have died is similiar to the OP.

Now I need to keep my eyes out for more easy fixes.

[kc8adu]

i have 3 of these in the recap pile waiting for me.
came to the conclusion that the tk caps are junk.
these were used in a industrial unit with an ac hanging on the cabinet.still blew up.in about 2 years too.

[c_hegge]

Just goes to show that the Japanese can make junk caps too. I have an aced at work from a customer. It has an entirely different board to this. Caps are a mixed bag of TK and sanyo. The TKs are bulging, but the others look fine.

EDIT: I always add fans to the chipsets on these boards too. Being nvidia chipsets, they need to be kept as cool as possible.

[jcmygod]

Recap fixed intermittent blue screens, unexpected restarts, and noticeably just after waking from sleep mode. General unstable machine behavior.

Was in the process of looking for a motherboard replacement, then came upon badcaps.net and found a much quicker and cheaper solution to the problem. Purchased the kit (was on-sale) got 25 caps in all, arrived in two days. Thanks badcaps.net.

Cap removal was pretty easy, but clearing the hole was more work, used the dental pick method outlined in the FAQ to push the solder out, iron on the bottom side of board, pick from top (component side) to push solder out the other side. Did it with board upside down, with memory SIMMs removed, but CPU and heatsink in place. The difficulties I had could be my iron was hot enough to distribute the heat on the hole, tried solder sucker bulb and wick methods both no joy.

Replaced all TK brand caps, nine 6.3v 1800uf, three 16v 1800uf. Of the 6.3v; 4 bulged on top, 2 bulged and leaking on top, 3 seems okay. Of the 16v all three seems okay.

Here are some of the Windows 7 Event Viewer logs which might be helpful to others:
_______________
The previous system shutdown at 10:21:18 PM on ‎9/‎15/‎2011 was unexpected.
_______________
The computer has rebooted from a bugcheck. The bugcheck was: 0x0000001a (0x0000000000041287, 0x000000000d230000, 0x0000000000000000, 0x0000000000000000). A dump was saved in: C:\Windows\MEMORY.DMP. Report Id: 091211-27003-01.
_______________
The system has rebooted without cleanly shutting down first. This error could be caused if the system stopped responding, crashed, or lost power unexpectedly.
_______________
The Microsoft Antimalware Service service terminated unexpectedly. It has done this 1 time(s). The following corrective action will be taken in 15000 milliseconds: Restart the service.
_______________
Microsoft Antimalware engine has been terminated due to an unexpected error.
Failure Type: Crash
Exception code: 0xc0000005
Resource: file:C:\Program Files (x86)\Common Files\ArcSoft\Connection Service\Bin\ACDaemon.exe
_______________


Good lucky to your recaps.

[mstbone67]

thanks bad cap!! fixed a hp pavilion 8200n with mcp61pm-hm just the 1800uf were bad.. all good now!!

thanks

[mando19]

Originally Posted by Pro289

Well, success! I've purchased replacement caps from this website.
All went okay. A little difficulty in clearing the holes of solder after removing the bad caps.
I ended up using a 0.65mm drill bit to do the job.

My HP Pavilion a6357c is back to life! Prime95 now runs stable.
Thanks BadCaps.net!

Hi Pro289,
what type of replacement capacitor did you use to replace your old 1800uF 6.3V TK capacitors and where did you got your replacements.

Thanks

[Uranium-235]

as far as the bugchecks go, it would not matter, cause any kind of instability crash addresses can be caused by bad caps, all depends on how unstable the voltage is to ether the ram or in this case the cpu and whats running in windows to cause the crash

as far as the post right above me, you can usually get them here. here are some ULESR nichis that should work

http://www.badcaps.net/store/product...roducts_id=145

these rubycons also should work

http://www.badcaps.net/store/product...products_id=41

I kinda wish TC would stock pannys and sanyos, but yeah, that not going to happen any time soon

[c_hegge]

Originally Posted by Uranium-235

these rubycons also should work

http://www.badcaps.net/store/product...products_id=41

No, they are ZL series. Not low enough ESR for a CPU VRM-Out. They are also 10mm diameter as opposed to 8mm.

just get the kit (http://www.badcaps.net/store/product...roducts_id=161) and replace the lot.

[c_hegge]

Originally Posted by Uranium-235

I kinda wish TC would stock pannys and sanyos, but yeah, that not going to happen any time soon

He did actually try to get panny when Rubycon stopped selling the MBZ series, but panny flat out refuse to sell the FJ or FL series to anyone except for Manufacturers

[namusait]

Hi friends. my name is Kenan. 1800uf 6.3V capacitors bulged my mcp61pm-hm motherboard and my computer has failed. I replaced the capacitors, but now will not turn on my computer. When I pressed the power button on the motherboard, CPU and other fans of energy comes from running but no display screen and the bios does not have a warning fans will always continue to work at the same speed. Contrary to turn off the computer power button to turn off the computer long pressure fans begins to turn quickly refreshed. I changed all the solders again renewed, and all the capacitors, but I could not find a solution. Please help.

[mariushm]

Hi Kenan.... what I should do if I were you would be to check if the power supply of the computer is working properly.

The capacitors on the motherboard can die from the excess heat and from poor "workmanship" but they could also fail due to receiving poor quality power from the power supply (high ripple, high voltage etc)

You should the very least open the case of the power supply (after removing the mains cable and waiting a couple of minutes for the energy to be leaked out from the capacitors inside). Inspect the insides and see if there's something bulging or in any way looking differently than other capacitors.

If you have access to a multimeter, close the lid on the psu and connect it to mains, start it up and check the voltages it outputs when it's not connected to a pc (you have to short two pins in the main 20-24 pin connector for the power supply to start)



The green cable/pin needs to be shorted with a wire to ground (one of the black cables) for the power supply to start and output on the rest of the pins.

Note the voltages down and repeat the procedure measuring the voltages when you start the computer (connect mb and everything to the psu). See if the voltages are still within acceptable limits (5v and 12v +/- 5%)

[namusait]

mariushm hello. Thank you for the reply. I tested a PSU is working properly. One of my friends have tested it and there is no problem mcp61ph-hm motherboard does not appear. Bios chip bios motherboard my friend I wanna put my anakartıma also did not alert.

[Zero Hour]

did you ensure the polarity wss correct when reinstalling your new caps?

[c_hegge]

Also, what caps did you use to replace them? If you didn't use super low ESR caps, then it will not work.

[MrNovi]

I know that it can be bad form to dredge up an old thread, but this was the latest on this motherboard that I could find and I have a couple of questions.

First, a friends computer with this board is having problems getting past the post stage and will neither start Windows nor enter the Bios. All 9 of the 1800uF 6.3V caps are bulging but not leaking. Does this behavior sound like it could be caused by the bulging caps?

Next, if that does appear to be a strong candidate should I go with Nichicon HN, HZ, or would you guys recommend something else?

All of the other caps look to be in good shape and this person really doesn't have much money to spare on this (met here at the local Food Pantry where I volunteer) so I'm trying to do this as economically as possible. the $13 difference between the complete kit and just the 9 may not seem like much, but to some folks it can be the difference in eating one small meal a day or 3 reasonably sized ones.

Any advice would be welcome here.

[c_hegge]

Originally Posted by MrNovi

First, a friends computer with this board is having problems getting past the post stage and will neither start Windows nor enter the Bios. All 9 of the 1800uF 6.3V caps are bulging but not leaking. Does this behavior sound like it could be caused by the bulging caps?

Quite possibly

Originally Posted by MrNovi

Next, if that does appear to be a strong candidate should I go with Nichicon HN, HZ, or would you guys recommend something else?

Those will do fine. There are also kits available for this board, which include all of the suspect caps, and are somewhat cheaper than buying them individually

See http://www.badcaps.net/store/product...roducts_id=161 for Revision 1
or
http://www.badcaps.net/store/product...roducts_id=180
For revision 2

Originally Posted by MrNovi

All of the other caps look to be in good shape and this person really doesn't have much money to spare on this (met here at the local Food Pantry where I volunteer) so I'm trying to do this as economically as possible. the $13 difference between the complete kit and just the 9 may not seem like much, but to some folks it can be the difference in eating one small meal a day or 3 reasonably sized ones.

Just get the kit. The others will fail sooner or later, and could have even failed already. These boards usually use OST for the other caps, which are known for failing with no visible signs.

[MrNovi]

Thanks for that info c_hegge. I compared the caps listed in the kit for the Rev 1.0b board and ran into a slight problem. I can account for all of the 1800uF 16v, 1800uF 6.3v, and 1000uF 6.3v caps. I can only find two of the five of the 470hF 16v caps on the board. The board looks identical to the one you posted a pic of in post 12. One is next to the blue IDE connector and the other is between the two PCI-E slots (the one away from the speaker). Any idea where the other three are supposed to be located? Am I missing something here? I don't want to order the wrong set or miss something.

[c_hegge]

The one in post 12 is a stripped down version, with fewer DIMM slots, and no firewire. The missing caps are used on the fully featured version for firewire output filtering. So just use the rev 1.0b kit and keep the extras as spares.

[MrNovi]

Okay, thanks. I'll order one of those shortly.