samsung un65nu6900f common problem, digging deeper

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  • itelite
    replied
    Ive done a few more of these over the years. When the problem matches that as originally posted, the resistor swap seems to work. The suitable resistor value does seem to vary though. Ive found putting a small potentiometer in the place of the resistor is great to make the fine adjustments to resistance required to get the best picture. You can turn the pot and watch the color saturation change until you get too high or too low of a resistance (causing a reboot). You can then either leave it, or measure the resistance and replace it with a SMD resistor of the same or very close value.

    Leave a comment:


  • nomoresonys
    replied
    Since it's not likely to be stuck, you can bookmark or save, maybe subscribe for future access but my subscribes vanished.

    Leave a comment:


  • nomoresonys
    replied
    This is a very informative thread and can potentially save a lot of these tvs, I think it should be a sticky so it is easy to find. Owner would probably have to do it, I don't think the mods have the mentality.

    Leave a comment:


  • petersor
    replied
    Quick update - still working well after 5 months . . .

    Leave a comment:


  • nomoresonys
    replied
    Ok, you were right about it just being a settings tweak, was my first thought as well.

    Leave a comment:


  • petersor
    replied
    I played with the setting on the FireTV and the TV a bit and it's now working perfectly. I think the TV is supposed to auto-detect the resolution, F/R etc. so maybe it was something on the FireTV side. Either way, problem solved.

    Rich

    Leave a comment:


  • Diah
    replied
    satsified
    Originally posted by petersor
    Follow-up to my previous post. 10k resistor in R13246 caused a boot loop so I tried a few higher values - 27k, 33k & 47k. All allowed the TV to function properly with great picture so I left the 47k resistor installed and put it all back together. Everything works fine using the built-in streaming services, but my Amazon FireTV produces sound but no picture through either HDMI port. I'm thinking it's probably due to a setup issue that I'll investigate, although I would think it should be plug and play. I can live with onboard streaming for now.

    I took a few voltage measurements on R13246 about halfway through the resistor swaps so I'll share those. Voltage at the 'top' of the resistor was consistently around 25.x V:

    27k - 19.6V
    33k - 18.7V
    47k - 16.6V

    Rich
    however you are satisfied but this is not enough.. as you dismissed the frame rate Freq & resolution...

    Originally posted by nomoresonys

    That is curious, did you try another hdmi device or another hdmi cable?
    no way even if cable in high resolution.

    Leave a comment:


  • nomoresonys
    replied
    Originally posted by petersor
    Follow-up to my previous post. 10k resistor in R13246 caused a boot loop so I tried a few higher values - 27k, 33k & 47k. All allowed the TV to function properly with great picture so I left the 47k resistor installed and put it all back together. Everything works fine using the built-in streaming services, but my Amazon FireTV produces sound but no picture through either HDMI port. I'm thinking it's probably due to a setup issue that I'll investigate, although I would think it should be plug and play. I can live with onboard streaming for now.

    I took a few voltage measurements on R13246 about halfway through the resistor swaps so I'll share those. Voltage at the 'top' of the resistor was consistently around 25.x V:

    27k - 19.6V
    33k - 18.7V
    47k - 16.6V

    Rich

    Click image for larger version Name:	20240806_150241.jpg Views:	0 Size:	1.80 MB ID:	3323837
    That is curious, did you try another hdmi device or another hdmi cable?

    Leave a comment:


  • petersor
    replied
    Follow-up to my previous post. 10k resistor in R13246 caused a boot loop so I tried a few higher values - 27k, 33k & 47k. All allowed the TV to function properly with great picture so I left the 47k resistor installed and put it all back together. Everything works fine using the built-in streaming services, but my Amazon FireTV produces sound but no picture through either HDMI port. I'm thinking it's probably due to a setup issue that I'll investigate, although I would think it should be plug and play. I can live with onboard streaming for now.

    I took a few voltage measurements on R13246 about halfway through the resistor swaps so I'll share those. Voltage at the 'top' of the resistor was consistently around 25.x V:

    27k - 19.6V
    33k - 18.7V
    47k - 16.6V

    Rich

    Click image for larger version  Name:	20240806_150241.jpg Views:	0 Size:	1.80 MB ID:	3323837

    Leave a comment:


  • petersor
    replied
    Some more data points as I'm working on one of these right now. I've tried 15k & 22k resistors for R13246 so far. The TV starts fine with either, but as soon as I add an HDMI Signal to either input, it stops booting. If I plug the HDMI in after it boots, the picture goes dark but the sound remains . . . I'm going to play with a few other resistor values, starting with 10k and then 4.7k to see if it will boot with HDMI connected. I'm wondering now if this is possibly and HDMI issue . . .

    Rich

    Leave a comment:


  • papakarlo74
    replied
    Thank you to all the guys posted above!
    5 cents from my side: to make a proper red color I've brute forced different values and found the best result for R13246 - 47K
    10K - TV did not start

    Leave a comment:


  • xfox
    replied
    I just turned off Instant On option in Eng menu, now TV is working ok

    Leave a comment:


  • Cornito
    replied
    Hi xfox,
    I've place a DC to DC step up between the 12V on the input from the mainboard to the VGL to avoid this kind of issue

    Leave a comment:


  • xfox
    replied
    Hello guys, so delay switch powered from USB is not working perfect, USB can randomly turn off while watching TV, I need to find some other 5v source, or 12v, have also 12v delay timer relay, any ideas where I can get 5v turn on? Also I was thinking ab 555 timer, need 1-2 sec delay, can someone suggest R and C for 1-2 sec?

    Leave a comment:


  • Cornito
    replied
    you right, it's not a good TV, but anyway we spent money and that shit and if we can save some time before having to buy another one it could be great, this will reduce our wastes.

    I'll try to fix what can be fixed, and if there is nothing really acceptable, i'll resign to put this in trash.

    Samsung should be under class action for that mess

    Leave a comment:


  • Storyteller12
    replied
    This is a cheap TV with a known screen defect.
    Not worth all the trouble to be honest. I appreciate the dedication to trying to find a solution but sometimes things just belong in the trash. This tv being one of them.
    Between the bad screens, the backlights burning out and melting diffusers.

    Leave a comment:


  • retrorepair2
    replied
    Didn't it die anyway? I may just let someone else have a go, seems like a lot of work for no real reward

    Leave a comment:


  • Cornito
    replied
    You can check pictures i've posted on # 101
    https://www.badcaps.net/forum/troubl...89#post3205489

    Regards

    Leave a comment:


  • Cornito
    replied
    So this confirm the fact that it's on the main driver that you've got the issue.
    I had the same case, I cutted the VSS line on this driver, that permitted to get an image, that was not good, I needed to cut CKV lines and link them to the ground to be able to get a not so bad picture quality.

    Leave a comment:


  • retrorepair2
    replied
    This TV only has one LVDS cable, you can separate the sides on the filter board but it won't then turn on at all.

    This is a UE70AU7100KXXU. Confirmed before doing it there was no voltage on the VGH test point on the main board and now there is but it looks like this

    Leave a comment:

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