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    Another 42H83 conundrum.

    I've recently acquired a Toshiba 42H83 RPTV. The previous owner said it was messed up, and had some issues. I figured it's definitely worth a look.

    From the first power on, I noticed a few things. The image was completely out of whack, convergence issues, and you couldn't realign them. The image was bent on the south sides, blue on the right, red on the left. (red.jpg and blue.jpg in the attachments show what the images did when I tried a touch focus. Green looked fine to my knowledge. All vertical lines were straight.) You could access everything as if the unit was fully functional, but the image was just terrible. Green seemed to be best of the three, however.

    When you were looking at the menu, with just the white fuzz going, everything looked like it was bowed towards the rear of the projector (menu.png). The white fuzz seemed to have a flow pattern to it (white fuzz flow guide.png), if that aids in the problem solving at all. After surfing for awhile here, I was thinking it had to do with the ICs; now I think it's a combination of two or so issues.

    Recently, the TV has seized to produce an image at all now. Sometimes I'll get a flashing power light; no picture. Others, it'll power on as if it's fully functional, produce no picture, but I can hear the speakers fuzz meaning I'm getting sound. Then, there're times when I'll power it on, and it'll make a clicking sound, and the red power light will completely shut off, then come back on again and make a few clicks and just idle.

    Sorry for making it extremely descriptive, and not very short and to the point, but I'm not really sure how else to describe it. haha.

    Annnyyyy thoughts at all would be greatly appreciated.
    Attached Files
    Last edited by invader_star; 03-15-2009, 12:26 AM.

    #2
    Re: Another 42H83 conundrum.

    You do have blown fuses in the deflection/power board and bad convergence ICs, and there is critical jumper near the convergence ampifier ICs that has bad solder that caused all this fuss.

    Not funny chassis to work on.

    Cheers, Wizard

    Comment


      #3
      Re: Another 42H83 conundrum.

      Thank you thank you.

      The whereabouts of said parts is beyond me. Where would I locate these?

      Comment


        #4
        Re: Another 42H83 conundrum.

        This varies but generally you will find them with your DMM, and pull out the convergence amp board as well, the deflection/power can left there connected but you have to get wires out of wire holders (ugh), and screws holding board down (watch for screws that's out of view) and flip the board up so you can see solder side.

        The convergence/small signal board (with metal boxes), needs to be pulled totally out of chassis (watch out for hot melt glue on the connectors (peel glue off first), there are number of jumpers there that is a issue in small area along one edge (where inductors that filters DC power lines are). Careful inspection will find bad jumper solder joint with a magifer lens.

        Cheers, Wizard
        Last edited by Wizard; 03-15-2009, 10:35 AM.

        Comment


          #5
          Re: Another 42H83 conundrum.

          Originally posted by Wizard
          You do have blown fuses in the deflection/power board and bad convergence ICs, and there is critical jumper near the convergence ampifier ICs that has bad solder that caused all this fuss.

          Not funny chassis to work on.

          Cheers, Wizard
          Where do I find the blown fuses in the deflection/power board?

          Where do I find the convergence ICs?

          Comment


            #6
            Re: Another 42H83 conundrum.

            Check ALL picofuses (they are way over in the front nearly out of view on the deflection/power board to right of the power supply tranformer) View with mirror and your DMM check them. Do this first to find them and record the amp rating on the fuses so you can order them. B & D do carry picofuses.

            008,010,017,048,600 jumpers on the convergence board/small signal.

            http://www.bdent.com/search/part.jsp?partnum=STK392-150
            Buy in pairs. Upgraded version of STK 392-110 (this is your original type but use this -150). Remember to get heatsink grease (same kind you use for CPU).

            Don't buy anywhere else, there are STK fakes.

            Cheers, Wizard
            Last edited by Wizard; 03-15-2009, 05:10 PM.

            Comment


              #7
              Re: Another 42H83 conundrum.

              Originally posted by Wizard
              Check ALL picofuses (they are way over in the front nearly out of view on the deflection/power board to right of the power supply tranformer) View with mirror and your DMM check them. Do this first to find them and record the amp rating on the fuses so you can order them. B & D do carry picofuses.

              008,010,017,048,600 jumpers on the convergence board/small signal.

              http://www.bdent.com/search/part.jsp?partnum=STK392-150
              Buy in pairs. Upgraded version of STK 392-110 (this is your original type but use this -150). Remember to get heatsink grease (same kind you use for CPU).

              Don't buy anywhere else, there are STK fakes.

              Cheers, Wizard
              This is excellent, thank you. I had a question. On the power board, I've noticed a bunch of blue gunk on some of the chips. Do you think these could possibly be bad?

              Comment


                #8
                Re: Another 42H83 conundrum.

                crt coolant leak or it got wet .
                not good.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Re: Another 42H83 conundrum.

                  Originally posted by kc8adu
                  crt coolant leak or it got wet .
                  not good.
                  That's discouraging. Do you think I'll need a whole new power board?

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Re: Another 42H83 conundrum.

                    The blue color comes from corrosion/electrolysis of the component leads. It is conductive.

                    Get some 70% rubbing alcohol and a old soft toothbrush and clean and flush in and around those components. Get the bristles underneath them if you can. Check the underside of the board also. Clean in the same manner. Then dry the area thoroughly with a hair dryer set to medium or low.

                    If it's a coolant leak, projection tube has lost its seal, it's a major problem. Since it is very specific to that area, you should be able to see where it came from.

                    {I converted pic to jpg and attached - hate imageshack}
                    Attached Files
                    Last edited by Toasty; 03-17-2009, 12:28 AM. Reason: converted and attached pic
                    veritas odium parit

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Re: Another 42H83 conundrum.

                      Originally posted by Toasty
                      The blue color comes from corrosion/electrolysis of the component leads. It is conductive.

                      Get some 70% rubbing alcohol and a old soft toothbrush and clean and flush in and around those components. Get the bristles underneath them if you can. Check the underside of the board also. Clean in the same manner. Then dry the area thoroughly with a hair dryer set to medium or low.

                      If it's a coolant leak, projection tube has lost its seal, it's a major problem. Since it is very specific to that area, you should be able to see where it came from.
                      Alright. I'll have to give it a shot, and hope the components haven't shorted themselves out. Thanks.

                      I checked and the projection tubes are still intact, so I'm left to blame good ol' H2O.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Re: Another 42H83 conundrum.

                        this area you snapped pic of is 5V standby power. Not that one. Go more toward front of the circuit board where big yellow and dark grey transformer is. Those are where fuses are. But this one you snapped is not the fuse we talking about.

                        Cheers, Wizard

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Re: Another 42H83 conundrum.

                          If you had shut it off and replaced the STKs you might not have to go fuse hunting now. My tv has no convergence ICs, all pots all manual... all annoying.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Re: Another 42H83 conundrum.

                            Started to disassemble this beast. I know there are very high voltages inside this thing. Taking the main circuit board out seems a bit straight forward, disconnect stuff i.e. cables and screws, but I do know how to remove the CRT anode cables (red ones) that connect to the high voltage assembly on the board. How do you discharge these things so that you are not having to worry about 31 kv knocking you across the room?

                            I need to remove the entore board to determine what needs to be cleaned, checked or replaced. Any help with this would be GREATLY appreicated. Just want to be safe doing this

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Re: Another 42H83 conundrum.

                              For safety's sake, make sure the set is unplugged first.

                              A CRT is a large capacitor and can hold an electrical charge for months. A typical CRT can hold a charge of between 20,000 to 35,000 volts. There's not a huge amount of current, but it can give you a nasty shock that you'll not soon want to repeat. Unless you're my cat.

                              Google: remove "anode cap" picture tube

                              There are several informative articles that give you some illustrations so you know what you're dealing with mechanically speaking.

                              Make sure that you use the wire that runs across and around the back of the tube and across the blackened surface as the ground connection. See illustrations that you Googled.

                              I prefer to use a very thin, flat blade screwdriver of 6-10" in blade length. A jumper wire is connected to the blade and to that wrap-around wire on the tube. Once connected, obey the "one hand behind your back" method, and carefully slide the flat of the blade under the anode cap. You need to be very careful not to damage the cap nor scratch the tube surface. Aim towards the center of the cap until you touch the anode contact. You may or may not hear a "snap" as the tube discharges. Once you are sure you have discharged the tube, then again see the illustrations on removal.

                              Do not touch the anode connection (hole) on the tube. Period.

                              Post back if you have any questions or doubts.
                              Last edited by Toasty; 03-19-2009, 07:51 PM.
                              veritas odium parit

                              Comment


                                #16
                                Re: Another 42H83 conundrum.

                                On Projector, you don't. The suction cups are permanently sealed to the little CRTs. Leave that alone!

                                THe wires are taken out of the high voltage divider block or on the flyback itself. Toshiba's is push in and turn 1/4 to release on high voltage leads. It takes some series of pushes and wiggle as you turn to get it unlocked. You will know it when it release. Installing is push down and turn 1/4 and check it's locked in, then massage the boot back onto tubes.

                                Small wires are not removeable on the flyback.

                                Cheers, Wizard

                                Comment


                                  #17
                                  Re: Another 42H83 conundrum.

                                  ARRGH! My bad. Forgot this was a projector.
                                  veritas odium parit

                                  Comment


                                    #18
                                    Re: Another 42H83 conundrum.

                                    Originally posted by Toasty
                                    ARRGH! My bad. Forgot this was a projector.
                                    No worries my friend, haha.

                                    Comment


                                      #19
                                      Re: Another 42H83 conundrum.

                                      So, a little update. My father and I were able to get the boards completely out of the chassis. Wow, does Toshiba do a wonderful job at failing. Flux everywhere. Lots of cold solders. I'm surprised it worked as long as it did. Hopefully this thing is still savable.

                                      Wizard, your picture of the pico fuses is correct. I finally found what you were talking about.
                                      How do you tell which ones are bad?

                                      Comment


                                        #20
                                        Re: Another 42H83 conundrum.

                                        You need multimeter to check these fuses for contiunity (near zero ohm), if open, replace it with like rating (if it say 5A, it's 5 amp fuse and replace with another 5A fuse for example, doesn't have to be this kind, have to be axial fuse) and replace both STK 392 ICs, and resolder many jumpers around this area as well.

                                        Flux is not a problem! Don't have to clean up but if it is too gross, clean with ear swabs (I like qtips brand because shafts is paper instead of plastic that melts with harsh chemical) and acetone. Be careful not to breath too much of this and not on your skin.

                                        Good luck!

                                        Cheers,

                                        Comment

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