Hi folks!
First off, I am a super noob--sorry in advance for the dumb questions.
Second--I have been searching around for the last couple hours and found that this is an excellent site and that I am a bit over my head.
So, The TV in question is the 450 series samsung from 2012 or so. The sound works fine but there is no video at all. I have a green blinking light on the logic board which I *think* means the main board is ok. X/Y main on the left side has a blown little blue thing which I think is a small capacitor--see pic below. When I measure Vs to ground at the logic board, I get ~3v--I am not sure where else to measure Vs as I don't see an obvious spot that is marked.
So, the question is that with an obvious blown blue thingy, would it be prudent to just replace the blue thingy, or might that be a symptom of a different issue and not the actual cause? I'd like to avoid soldering in a new capacitor (if that is what it is) and having it blow again due to an underlying issue.
I am reasonably competent with a multimeter, but am also a bit of a cretin--please be gentle! Any thoughts?
Thanks!
Dan
First off, I am a super noob--sorry in advance for the dumb questions.
Second--I have been searching around for the last couple hours and found that this is an excellent site and that I am a bit over my head.
So, The TV in question is the 450 series samsung from 2012 or so. The sound works fine but there is no video at all. I have a green blinking light on the logic board which I *think* means the main board is ok. X/Y main on the left side has a blown little blue thing which I think is a small capacitor--see pic below. When I measure Vs to ground at the logic board, I get ~3v--I am not sure where else to measure Vs as I don't see an obvious spot that is marked.
So, the question is that with an obvious blown blue thingy, would it be prudent to just replace the blue thingy, or might that be a symptom of a different issue and not the actual cause? I'd like to avoid soldering in a new capacitor (if that is what it is) and having it blow again due to an underlying issue.
I am reasonably competent with a multimeter, but am also a bit of a cretin--please be gentle! Any thoughts?
Thanks!
Dan
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